2005 Bruteforce 750 Need expert help!
#1
Hello,
I have a 2005 Bruteforce 750 with about 40 hours. Started it up and it will barely stay running and with I give it gas it backfires and wont speed up - feels like something is really wrong. I have cleaned the carbs and there was a little tarnish but not much and it still runs the same. Please if anyone could give me some advise before I take it to Kawasaki and pay out the A$$
Thanks,
Aaron
I have a 2005 Bruteforce 750 with about 40 hours. Started it up and it will barely stay running and with I give it gas it backfires and wont speed up - feels like something is really wrong. I have cleaned the carbs and there was a little tarnish but not much and it still runs the same. Please if anyone could give me some advise before I take it to Kawasaki and pay out the A$$
Thanks,
Aaron
#2
how old is the gas? try draining/siphoning and refilling. This will do amazing things if it is old. Have you pulled the plugs to check and see if they are fouled? How long has it been sitting?
#7
Have the Uni spray cleaner and oil, its clean. I am not a deep water or mud rider...doesnt make any sense. Anyone Kawasaki techs in Dallas that wants some work just send me a message.
Trending Topics
#9
I was reading some of the service manual last night and I was wondering if anyone has played with the syncro screw. I have not way to check the cdi so I want to make sure I have looked at everything else before I buy one.
#10
I wouldn't touch the synchro screw between the carbs. If it isn't the problem then it can be a bitch to get it right without vacuum gauges. I need more info. Does it run better at partial choke? Full choke? Choke off? If it's backfiring through the carb, it's running lean. If backfiring through the exhaust, it's running rich. More than likely it is running lean, due to the EPA having a hand in its tuning. Before messing with the carb, make sure the valves are adjusted correctly. Valves too tight can make the V-twin run like crap. Hard starting and poor performance. Most are tight from the factory. Afterward, you can try to turn your mixture screws (bottom of the carbs) out a bit more than stock. This only adjusts the idle performance, and does nothing for mid to upper RPM. For mid RPM, I've shimmed my needles in the slides .030 inch with washers. This richens up the idle to mid range transition. A smarter solution is a Dynojet kit with its notched needles for adjustment. Upper RPM is handled by the main jet, and some guys will richen this up with a larger one, but only if lean in that range. When adjusted right, it's a monster. When adjusted wrong, it's just a disappointment.
Sorry for the long post.
Sorry for the long post.


