as explained in other topics I am stripping down my old 1994 2 stroke as much as possible to repair the rust that is eating the frame away.

I removed the middle tensioner and found one bearing was chewed up so decided to simply do away with all the stuff for the front wheel drive [it did work but I really don't need it on a level beach]. So I have removed the middle and front chains as well as the centre tensioner.

My question is can anybody think of any reason the bike might not like me doing that, and secondly should I remove the front axels/universal joints as well or just leave them sitting there [but no longer turning]

 

i dont think thear will be a problem with making it 2x4 insted of a 4x4 you need to leave the frunt axels in it so the rear of the frunt hub is sealed

 

thanks for help

I was just going to cut a 1 inch bit of broom handle and clamp that into the small end of the boot

as it is at present I relaced boots when I did the A Frames 2 years back but with the axels in there [turning at different angles] the big end of the boots tend to slip off, so I was thinking this would also solve that problem and give a full seal

 

i had a scrambler with no front wheel drive parts at all and it was fine

 

OK, the A Frames plus the McPherson struts are now removed and the 2 universal joints are hanging limp.

the book shows that they are on splines off the front centre bearing [tightener], and are held on by what is called a "spring pin".

I can see these pins, about 1/4 inch or less diam and with a hole down the centre, but not sure if it is an Allen Key type grub scew

can anyone tell me how to remove these pins as I would like to discard the front axles

 

there called roll pins as well and you just take a punch or something the same size and pound them out.

 

OK, I see 2 ends at 180 degrees

so is this just one pin [right through] and it matters not from which side I pound the bugger?

sure don't seem too sci-ent-ific like

 

no it does not matter which side as long as you have room to slide it out w/out hitting anything.

 

OK, an update

I bought not just a punch but a "pin punch" and with a bit of Lizzy Bordin type whackin' both pins came out

the axles [with Universal Joints] then slid off

I then gave the stub a further Lizzy and it poped out the left side with the sprocket clanging to the ground

I now have full access to the very badly rusted frame and given that the bolt on the tightener is impossible to budge I decided to leave the tightener in place as the assembly can only strengthen the frame on the front end of the AFrame support

and I found some stainless steel bolts for AFrame

 

a couple more questions

I removed the bearing hub [bolts to frame before rear brake rotor] and the 13 tooth sprocket [to rear chain] - see photo 1

In next photo the teeth are almost worn away [by comparison to the 11 toother on right, which goes on the very end of same shaft], also teeth on rear sprocket seem very "sharp".

questions are, would I get away with just a new 11 toother [given that it has worked OK like that for a year or more

then the bearing seems to be just a sleeve [centre does not turn] and grease gets ejected into a groove in the centre

but is there any point in reinstalling this bearing seeing as I am not using either rear brake or 11 toother

I will post this and add pictures later

EDIT - how do I add photos to make a gallery?

EDIT2 - not to worry I made a jalbum

photo album

it is this slide and next one