GOT A COUPLE RAPTOR EXHAUST QUESTIONS!!!
#1
Hey guys. I am wanting to get the full big gun exhaust and am wondering how much it costs? I also live at sea level and am wondering what jets to run with lots of holes cut in the airbos lid and the flaps cut out? how much is the head pipe and how much is the slip on? another question...what does each of the different jets do? what's the difference between the mains, pilots, needles, whatever and the clip positions? Thanks
#2
i have the white bros now but ordered the big gun full exaust i have a buddy who has a raptor and said he would buy i the one i did not want for 20 lees than i paid. but anyways i called big gun they sdaid 500 bucks but i got mine from moto joe for 399. rockymountain has them listed for 369 but the lady i talked to there did not know if they where this years model or last. and about the jets i also ordered the dyno jet system hopefully to make the jetting easier
#3
I'm not sure how much the Big Gun slip-on costs,but i bought the complete system for $369.00 from Rocky Mountain Atv.I am very satisfied with the system,and i'm going to add a cam and porting to enhance the pipe in the near future.
#4
Since most of your questions on pipes have been answered I can only add that unless there is substantial work done to the engine of a Raptor the stock header is sufficient to flow any exhaust to a slip on pipe and any benefit of a replacement header would be mostly cosmetic. Of course a manufacturer of a full system would dispute that, no doubt. As to the question re jet circuits, here are the three circuits and the areas in which they function:
pilot jet--idle to 1/4 throttle
needle jet--1/4 to 3/4 throttle (nominal needle position is the 3rd position)
main jet..3/4 to full throttle
There is often some overlap in the operation of these jets. As a general rule, the main jet size is the one most likely to need an increase when an increase in airflow is made such as an aftermarket pipe or airbox or filter alteration.
pilot jet--idle to 1/4 throttle
needle jet--1/4 to 3/4 throttle (nominal needle position is the 3rd position)
main jet..3/4 to full throttle
There is often some overlap in the operation of these jets. As a general rule, the main jet size is the one most likely to need an increase when an increase in airflow is made such as an aftermarket pipe or airbox or filter alteration.
#7
xtreme165,
check out my previous posting or my 'needle jet post'? Another thing, boy those guys in the Honda forum really got on your @ss didn't they. You make a statement and everybody is like 'Raptor trash , blah, blah, blah). I wouldv'e had the same argument.
check out my previous posting or my 'needle jet post'? Another thing, boy those guys in the Honda forum really got on your @ss didn't they. You make a statement and everybody is like 'Raptor trash , blah, blah, blah). I wouldv'e had the same argument.
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#8
ERICsRAPTOR,
You have me confused. You're saying "if I put a Big Gun....", yet your sig says you have one on already with fatter main jets. Have you done a test ride/plug read with the needle in 3rd position in order to verify your main jetting?Does the color of your brand new plug indicate correct main jettings? Finally, do you see any performance problem in the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle range? It is likely you won't, so leave the jet needle right where it is..in the 3rd position.
As I said in the previous post, a cardinal rule in adjusting anything is to adjust only one thing and test before adjusting another. This will avoid much chaos later. Testing & plug reading are key when re-jetting and only your OWN
engine can tell you what is right or wrong. If you don't have a good grasp on rejetting, testing, & plug reading, you can e-mail me for a file article I've written on the subject. It's written in a basic format without a lot of theory.
You have me confused. You're saying "if I put a Big Gun....", yet your sig says you have one on already with fatter main jets. Have you done a test ride/plug read with the needle in 3rd position in order to verify your main jetting?Does the color of your brand new plug indicate correct main jettings? Finally, do you see any performance problem in the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle range? It is likely you won't, so leave the jet needle right where it is..in the 3rd position.
As I said in the previous post, a cardinal rule in adjusting anything is to adjust only one thing and test before adjusting another. This will avoid much chaos later. Testing & plug reading are key when re-jetting and only your OWN
engine can tell you what is right or wrong. If you don't have a good grasp on rejetting, testing, & plug reading, you can e-mail me for a file article I've written on the subject. It's written in a basic format without a lot of theory.
#9
Ya email me it, ERICDEMATTEIS@hotmail.com.
Yes there was a problem with the 1/2-full throttle range. Let me explain. I have a BG full exhaust, pro-flow filter, ign advance(7degree) and was running with the lid off @ 165/170, 1677 feet. The quad would not even get past 5000/5500 rpms before it would start coughing and cutting out with the pipe getting red. Next I put the Air box lid back on with no snorkel. This helped a little prolonging the cutting out until I'd say 6000/6500 rpms but it still did. I then put the snorkel back on with flaps and it helped it with the cutting out alot except for when it really got high in the rpms 7500/8000, the pipe was less red and the power of the bike dramatically decreased. Previously before I decided to install the headpipe, I had all the components named above except the headpipe running @ 150/155(I believe) with the snorkel off and it ran excellent! With the headpipe installed it won't get the rpms up to let me get a good test of the main jets. I see people at lower elevations running lower jets BUT messing with the screws and clips and they are saying their ATV are running great, that's why I am now leaning towards the needle jets. One other thing with the stock pilots it runs good thru 1/4 throttle.
Yes there was a problem with the 1/2-full throttle range. Let me explain. I have a BG full exhaust, pro-flow filter, ign advance(7degree) and was running with the lid off @ 165/170, 1677 feet. The quad would not even get past 5000/5500 rpms before it would start coughing and cutting out with the pipe getting red. Next I put the Air box lid back on with no snorkel. This helped a little prolonging the cutting out until I'd say 6000/6500 rpms but it still did. I then put the snorkel back on with flaps and it helped it with the cutting out alot except for when it really got high in the rpms 7500/8000, the pipe was less red and the power of the bike dramatically decreased. Previously before I decided to install the headpipe, I had all the components named above except the headpipe running @ 150/155(I believe) with the snorkel off and it ran excellent! With the headpipe installed it won't get the rpms up to let me get a good test of the main jets. I see people at lower elevations running lower jets BUT messing with the screws and clips and they are saying their ATV are running great, that's why I am now leaning towards the needle jets. One other thing with the stock pilots it runs good thru 1/4 throttle.
#10
ERICDEMATTEIS@hotmail.com.
I tried to email you with two attachments and a reply to your last post. It bounced, saying "no match".
Just send me an email & I'll just reply to it.
I tried to email you with two attachments and a reply to your last post. It bounced, saying "no match".
Just send me an email & I'll just reply to it.


