Hello everybody! This is my first post on these forums, hopefully there is someone that can help me with the problem I'm having.

I have a Scrambler 4x4, and when in 4 wheel drive, the left front wheel was slipping. I put the quad up on a jack while in gear and in 4wd, and 3 wheels turn fine. The left front hub will turn without the weight of the wheel attached to it. It usually stops turning after a few seconds. I took it apart and the bearings look fine, but I noticed the clutch was warped. I tested the magnet by putting just the plate (not sure what it's called, armature plate? the one that locks the clutch) against the magnet. I'd flip the 4wd switch and the plate felt pretty tight. I am able to move it, but it does take a decent tug to do so. I picked up a new clutch and assembled everything and gave it a try, now the hub does not turn at all. It does not even catch, or try to turn. I had a few questions about re-assembling this.

Does the castle nut have to be at any specific tightness? Or can I tighten it by feel, to keep from being too loose or too tight on the bearing?

I put the Polaris fluid in the hub and let the fluid spill out when the hold is at about the 8 o'clock or 4 o'clock position. Is this wrong?

Finally, is there anything special to be done to the magnet? I've adjusted its gap to where I feel the pull is strongest, but no luck.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Every time I think I have this figured out, I don't!

 

take machine to a dealer to diagnose problem, there is a very specific procedure for torquing the hub correctly.

 

I had the same problem on the right side. That plate MUST be completely flat. Put it tang side up on a table or something flat. If it is warped even a little replace it. Only $14.00 at the dealer. That nut should be torqued to 108-144 inch pounds per the Polaris service manual. That is a lot. I called the dealer and he said he tightens the nut untill the hub locks up then loosens it just enough to install the cotter key. I tightened the nut to 144 in/lbs and the hub was very hard to get it to turn but once it turned it did turn fairly easy. I just torqued mine to 108in/lbs then backed off to get the cotter pin on. It worked great this weekend. The book said it could have two rings in the disk all the way around. Mine had grooves at opposite sides and it WAS warped.

 

If the magnet is working properly it should be pretty hard to pull the plate off when engaged, take the other side apart and compare. I'm betting it's the magnet.

 

by the way, welcome to the forums!

 

i also had the same problem with my scrambler,i thought the magnet was good to but is wasnt,i just bought a used strut housing off ebay for 40.00 and it works perfect now.

 

I don't think he posted his question here just to be told to "take it to the dealer"

 

I just realized that I never posted my solution! Since that posting, that Scrambler is lonnnng gone! I sold it! However we took the wheel off to try and figure out how the 4 wheel drive actually works.

An electromagnet, when turned on (via the AWD switch), engages a clutch inside the wheel hub. In my case, the clutch was worn out. I simply replaced it and it was working again!

Thanks everyone for the support

EDIT: One last thing, I found the torque specs online, and properly torqued the castle nut. While I don't remember exactly how many pounds I used...I saved a PDF that suggests to torque the nut at 20lbs and back it off a half turn. I must have used that when I reassembled everything. Hope this helps!