removing rear axle/inner CV from 02 sportsman 400
#1
My buddies Sportsman 400 rear CV went on him and I spent the better part of last night trying to remove it with him. We followed the instructions listed above but we could not get the inner CV out of the Trans/diff. Its says it should pop out when pulled hard. WE tried pulling on the shaft, putting pry bars behind it and banging on them we even tried removing the opposite side and banging it through but we could not get the other side off either.
Anyone have any expeience on the 01/02 sportsman?
Anyone have any expeience on the 01/02 sportsman?
#2
i had to put the hub back on the shaft and put the wheel on the hub and use the wheel as a weight. have someone hold the bike so you dont pull it off the jack sit on the floor and put both feet up against the bike and push it in all the way and jerk backwards as hard as you can. it may take several attempts. the wheel / tire will give you the extra weight like a slide hammer to get it loose, also when you reinstall use anti sieze
#4
it takes 2 people, one prying from each side... its not fun, its not easy, but it will eventually pop off when you least expect it.. When you do get it off take out the other axle and put some anti seize on that as it is easy to just drive out now... btw, its no more fun trying to get that axle back into place (although i was alone trying to keep the wheeler from falling off the stand, and align the splines and push it in square all at the same time...) ... so dont think your fun job is over when you get it out.
#5
it takes 2 people, one prying from each side... its not fun, its not easy, but it will eventually pop off when you least expect it.. When you do get it off take out the other axle and put some anti seize on that as it is easy to just drive out now... btw, its no more fun trying to get that axle back into place (although i was alone trying to keep the wheeler from falling off the stand, and align the splines and push it in square all at the same time...) ... so dont think your fun job is over when you get it out.
Is there a way to get a slide hammer inside the inner CV cup, as when my buddy was trying to remove it, it fell aprt leaving unly the cup?
#6
My sympathies, I went through this a couple months ago.
I think you have to consider this half-axle a write off. Weld something onto that thing so you can get a grip on it with the slide hammer, that thing has to come out, and it's a nightmare. When you get one off, you can drive the other one out, it's much easier that way. Clean up the corrosion, coat stuff with anti-sieze before re-assembly.
Once you get that first one out, you've got it licked. But it's tough.
I think you have to consider this half-axle a write off. Weld something onto that thing so you can get a grip on it with the slide hammer, that thing has to come out, and it's a nightmare. When you get one off, you can drive the other one out, it's much easier that way. Clean up the corrosion, coat stuff with anti-sieze before re-assembly.
Once you get that first one out, you've got it licked. But it's tough.
#7
I've never considered myself a sissy, but this has to be the hardest thing I've ever tried to do.
I have am working on the left rear axle of a 2002 Sportsman 400 and have removed everything out of the way to try and get the most possible angles to pry from, but nothing has worked yet. The setup I felt like worked best was having one pry bar at 6 o'clock and one at 12 o'clock, I sat at the back of the four wheeler and pushed the bottom bar forward with my feet and pulled the top one back. Nothing has so much as budged yet. I spray a bunch of WD-40 back there to try and loosen things up, but nothing has seemed to help. I actually even bent one of the pry bars.
I'm worried that I'm going to break the case while prying which would turn into a much bigger job. Has anyone simply rebuilt the CV right there in place? Just use new bearings and holders and reused the outer housing? The outer CV joint was completly gone and the inner boot was torn, so I was orginally thinking that it would be easier to just pull the whole axle and replace it instead of messing with it, but I'm begining to second guess that thought.
If you made it to this point, thanks for reading, at this point, I'm willing to try anything to get it out, so bring on any suggestions.
I have am working on the left rear axle of a 2002 Sportsman 400 and have removed everything out of the way to try and get the most possible angles to pry from, but nothing has worked yet. The setup I felt like worked best was having one pry bar at 6 o'clock and one at 12 o'clock, I sat at the back of the four wheeler and pushed the bottom bar forward with my feet and pulled the top one back. Nothing has so much as budged yet. I spray a bunch of WD-40 back there to try and loosen things up, but nothing has seemed to help. I actually even bent one of the pry bars.
I'm worried that I'm going to break the case while prying which would turn into a much bigger job. Has anyone simply rebuilt the CV right there in place? Just use new bearings and holders and reused the outer housing? The outer CV joint was completly gone and the inner boot was torn, so I was orginally thinking that it would be easier to just pull the whole axle and replace it instead of messing with it, but I'm begining to second guess that thought.
If you made it to this point, thanks for reading, at this point, I'm willing to try anything to get it out, so bring on any suggestions.
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#8
Have some good friends to help if you can
One to hold the atv while you or the biggest guy "rabbit jerks' as I call it. Quick, short, constant jerks usually help to vibrate the rust,water and mud loose to where it (hopefully) will come out. Worst case scenario you can remove the other side and then knock this stuck one on out(if the other side isn't in the same shape) OPT
One to hold the atv while you or the biggest guy "rabbit jerks' as I call it. Quick, short, constant jerks usually help to vibrate the rust,water and mud loose to where it (hopefully) will come out. Worst case scenario you can remove the other side and then knock this stuck one on out(if the other side isn't in the same shape) OPT
#9
Thanks for the help. I have tried the other side, not to this extent, but it didn't want to move either. Is my fear of breaking the case a real one or not? I just don't know how much it can take before it gets damaged. The pry bars I was using were the type for wood working which have a little bit of spring to them, I read some others using tire rod type pry bars which probably won't have to much spring or bend to them. I guess I'll try this tomorrow, hopefully this doesn't turn into a disaster!
#10
Try heat,PB Blaster(the best penetrant) and if you have a friend that has a slide hammer that you can rig up to the drive shaft while someone uses a pry bar would help also. OPT


