First post here, looks like a great forum! Anyway, I have a 2000 300 4x4 and just discovered gas in the oil in the crankcase, I figure its gotta be leaking through the carb to get there, any ideas on how to remedy?
Thanks a ton!

 

Your needle and seat is not shutting the gas off completely. You may just have a dirty carb and something is stuck in the seat or you may have a worn out needle and seat. Thats the only way gas can get into the crank case. Make sure you change the oil after you fix the problem.

 

Yep, my '01 250 did the same thing. I changed the needle and seat and cleaned the carb. I also installed a fuel filter in the line. Get the oil changed quickly. It isn't good on seals and gaskets. Change the filter and oil, run it a bit and change again to flush out the gas.

 

Thx guys, which needle are you talking about? looks like theres a couple of them

how difficult is cleaning the carb? Ive done it on my boat motor, chainsaws, mowers and tractor successfully, much different?

Thx again!

 

20 SKU: 4505-022 Seat, Valve 2.0 (With Needle) 1 $21.31


Take a good look at the diagram and you can see it is relatively simple. Just like cleaning most other small carbs. You may want a service manual to set everything back to spec, or at least count the turns on the adjustments.

 

Rgr that, Thanks Dave!

 

seems the rubber tip on my float needle was missing, ordering a new one now but another quick question please, the manual says to use 10w40 thats equivalent to SE, SF or SG. Why cant you just use a good quality 10w40 motor oil for autos? Any known issues with that?

Thanks a ton
Frank

 

its because the bike is a wet clutch system. the transmission needs an oil that works with the engine oil as well as with the clutch system since the oil is for both the engine and transmission. if you use regular 10w 40, it will still work,but eventually cause damage.

 

Regular automotive oils ususally have "friction inhibitors" that will casue the clutch plates to slip.

So as mudslinginfool added, make sure the oil is "wet clutch safe". I think the 10w40 (or 5w40 if you live in a cold climate) from the dealer is like $4-$5 a quart for your machine. You can switch to synthetic but it is a little more $. Usually you can get an oil change kit (filter and gallon of oil) for like $30-$35.

Also, if you trailer you ATV make sure the fuel shut off is inthe OFF position or it can slosh fuel into the cylder and around the rings as you trailer it.

Swampy

 

Thx guys, good tip on the trailering too. I replaced the float valve and its holding, fuel cutoff was leaking, replaced the O-ring on that, added an inline fuel filter and a new oiled air filter. Changed the oil filter and oil, cranked it up oil looks very dirty. I'm going to change the oil and oil filter again, hopefully I wont have to do it a 3rd time.

Thx for all the help!