so ive cleaned out the carb as clean as i could possibly get it sprayed out every jet with carb cleaner and an aircompressor. checked the boot between the engine and carb, it looks perfect, did a compression test, ran it without the exhuast pipe and it still wont rev up past 1/4 or so.

i adjusted the seat so it lets more fuel in and it revved a little higher but had difficulties starting.

idk if i need a carb kit cuz everything looks to be fine in the carb even the gaskets

any ideas?

 

did you take the fueline off at the carb to check you had good fuel flow from the tank. float tangs set about level in the bowl

 

one time my 99 400 didn't act like it wanted to rev and it ended up,that the spark plug cap was bad, if you have an ohmmeter, check that too

 

we got a new sparkplug cap and when we did spray gas into the carb it revved up.

 

Just Curious,did you remove <all> the jets to fully inspect them and clean them? I have seen some where air would not do it nor would shots of carb cleaner do the job but a manual wire cleaning would,just don't over tighten them when reinstalling.Also inspect your rubber slide diaphram on the top of the carb,it could be damaged and may not be opening to allow the needle to rise out the main jet to allow proper fuel to revv.You can view if the slide is operating by removing the air box and visually watch the slide move as throttle is opened,if it does not rise of flutters bad that may be a possible solution to the issue? Not jumping the gun here and most of my time has been spent on (500s),if you rule out fuel,vacuum leaks,compression,electrical ect.. it would be a good idea to check the camshaft and valve clearance.The 500s in that period were bad about cam exhaust lobes wearing out,they would idle fine but would not rev up.Not saying this is your issue at hand.

 

the straws? that come out of the fuel tank are plugged or partially plugged i found out when i was replacing the fuel lines and filter... the reserve has no air going through at all and the main has a slight bit, but my question is do they even work in reverse? and is there a way to clean them... oem main fuel fitting i think it was called is 24 dollars

 

Good job on diagnosing it,yes they can be cleaned,if they are like the 500 screwing into plastic on the underside of the tank,use care reinstalling because they strip easy,Clean with carb cleaner and use light compressed air to blow the trash from the screens,if they are too bad you will have to replace them.With the fuel cap removed and the lines disconnected from the fuel valve can you blow air "bubbles" into the tank? How about your tank vent line,is it clear "no air,no fuel flow" it should be under the cap and routes under the plastic tank cover leading near the carburetor.If it flows with the fuel cap off but not on,the vent line is plugged

 

the vent line on ours was routed to the front of the quad just randomly stopped off after the handbars? the reserve straw is clogged right through and wont unclug with 100 psi... so i guess let it sit with carb cleaner then blow through? and are they made for limiting fuel flow aswell or should it blow right through easily?, our 3 way valve or petcock (not sure what to call it) leaks too i think, when its set to off i can blow air throught either hole and when its ON its strong through on hole and weak through reserve vice versa for the reserve

 

100 psi,I'd say it's clogged bad.It should flow with ease without any restriction.If your petcock is leaking I'd buy a new one or you could bypass it with a 5/16" brass fuel shut-off valve from Napa but you would have to choose reserve or the main line and plug the other. I do not recommend this but it is a option I wanted to run by you

 

ahh reserve who needs it :P and ya i could even not buy it and just buy the 24 dollar main one but ill see when i try blow it out after it soaked in carb cleaner over night