Just wondering if someone has run across a different design for the Sportman Shifter box? I have a '01 Sportsman 400 & just about every year I either have to readjust the linkage or repalce a few parts inside the box or some other part in the linkage mechanism. I see many threads that indicate this is a Polaris design nightmare. I would think that someone has come up with a better design for the shifter mechanism.

 

Yes this shift box does have its problems as it gets older. You can replace the worn parts in it,but its almost as cheap to replace the complete assembly as it does come with a new shifter switch also which in itself becomes a problem when worn and won't let the awd stay engaged! If you haven't already tried to adjust the linkage here is a simple way: place in neutral,loosen both the front rod end lock nuts for the two linkage shafts at the shift box end,remove the 10 mm nuts securing the linkage ends to the shift box levers,while still in neutral turn the rod ends if needed to where they drop STRAIGHT IN the shift box levers with NO resistance,then tighten lock nuts and tighten the 10 mm nuts at linkage ends. Then see if it shifts better?? If when you have both linkages off the shift box you can feel a lot of play on the shift lever itself(back and forth) Adjustment may or may not help. Also check the belcranks (aluminum levers) on the gear case and make sure they are tight and don't have any slack(easy to strip the splines if they work loose. I've adjusted quite a few over the years,especially ones that were brought in locked in gear. I just removed the linkage arms and adjusted as mentioned above. Some would be okay,some needed shift box repair or replacement. Also if idle is too high can affect shifting along with clutch/belt problems (creeping in gear) When they finally went to the straight shifter(I believe in 2005 for the Sportsman 500 and the other atvs) this solved a lot of shifting and awd problems. They removed the gear position switches to the gear case (where it should have been!) LONG reply I know,but you are among many with this problem and just weigh the cost of repair versus replacing the shift box if adjustment doesn't help. Plus to my knowledge there isn't a different shift box available for the older models since the gear case was changed also on the later ones, Hope this helps a little. OPT

 

Thanks for the reply OPT. I did everything you say & it does shift quite easy right now. I'm waiting for a new bellcrank because the one on the trans is a little ragged. However after running for a while a couple of things happen -- Sometimes it will jump out of gear when giving the throttle (rev & Fwd) and then it'll grind when shifting into rev or fwd. I found that if I'm in forward & want to go in reverse, if I shift to neutral back to fwd then into reverse the grind is much less or doesn't happen at all. Same in the other direction. Any thoughts here??

I lowered the idle speed as much as possible using the throttle cable adjustment. If I try to go lower the engine shuts off. Is there an adjustment on the card I can try?

Any other suggestions?

 

When you have one that has a good forward engagement and a grinding in reverse OR vice versa and belcranks are tight on the gear case and adjustment won't help,then its usually time to repair or replace the shift box. Bad design I know. OPT