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1999 Xplorer 400 Front Shocks and Spring Change

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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 06:27 PM
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Default 1999 Xplorer 400 Front Shocks and Spring Change

Im looking to change the front shocks and springs on my 99 xplorer 400. They're both leaking oil. Im looking for some guidance. Do I have to take the front plastics off and do I really need a spring compressor?
 
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 07:30 PM
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You don't have to,but if you've never changed strut cartridges before it might be easier. Try removing the top nut(you have to lock the shaft with vice grips at the very top),plastic bushings,etc and see if you can push the strut assy down and out(without pulling the drive shaft out of the cv joint) and swing out to where you can remove the spring nut and spring cap, and spring,then loosen the two strut bolts and slide out out the old strut cartridge(you may have to pry the split in the strut a little with a screw driver to do this). As far as a spring compressor,all I did was use a large pair of vice grips with a piece of rubber on the shaft(to protect it) and turned the vice grips counter clockwise which would cause the vice grips to ramp up the spring compressing it down. Then when you have enough room you can install the cap and spring nut. OPT
 
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 07:30 AM
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I'm assuming the struts are compressed in your first step? Is that correct?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 11:49 AM
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Yes,the assy is compressed (spring is under pressure) when you remove the strut nut and bushings(upper and lower pivot ***** as they are called) from the frame,you just lower the whole assy down and swing out enough to clear the plastic without pulling the shaft out of the cv joint (just lower the assy down,set the bottom of the strut on a 4x4 block of wood) Then remove the cartridge nut and spring cap(spring pops up),and then you can remove the spring and old cartridge. Works a heck of a lot easier if you have AIR TOOLS! You compress the spring with vice grips as you wind counter clockwise around the coil springs(make sure you protect the cartridge shaft) after you install the new cartridge. This pulls the spring down enough to replace the spring cap and nut. Then you lift the assy back up through the lower and upper bushings, metal washer and rubber washer and replace the top nut. Look at the breakdown on the front strut. Browse OPT
 
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 09:49 AM
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OPT. Thanks so much. I'm going to dive into it tonight. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 07:27 AM
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OPT, I have everything put back together but it seems there is a bit of slop on the top end. If I lift the quad with my hands a bit you can feel the slop. I replaced all of the plastic on the top. After a lot of going over what I had done, it seems that if I added another Rubber spacer it would take up the slop. Is that what the Rubber spacer (5810291) is for? Thanks. Glenn
 
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 07:41 AM
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You shouldn't have to add another rubber spacer under the metal one if everything is replaced properly!! Just clamp a pair of vice grips at the top of the strut shaft,let it hit the frame as a stop so it wont turn, then make sure the top mounting nut is tight. If it is tight you just might be hearing/feeling where the strut is extended all the way and makes a slight clunk. This is normal. OPT
 
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 08:51 AM
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OPT. The top nut is tight. I believe I have all of the parts facing the right way on the top end of the strut. I rode it last night and could hear clunking Coming from the strut. It seems to make sense that there is a ball and socket for the plastics. But, when looking at the other new strut the metal washer will not allow the ball and socket to fully compress against each other. Hence the slop. If I added another rubber spacer, it would allow compression against the ball and socket.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 06:32 PM
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Are you sure the strut and spring plate nut is tight on the cartridge itself? Plus did you replace the upper and lower pivot ***** or did you reuse the old ones? Did you seat both strut cartridges firmly at the bottom of the strut housing before tightening the two strut bolts and nuts? Plus do you have the recessed top pivot ball (or plate as I call it) correctly oriented(recessed lip upwards) with the rubber washer,then the metal washer and nut? OPT
 
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 08:23 PM
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OPT. I replaced everything on the top end. Everything is tight. It seems as though I may have the top pivot ball upside down from your description. I currently have the recessed "socket" facing down. To me, that would make sense. Maybe not. I do have a service manual, but from the illustration its hard to tell which way the "top pivot ball " goes. I assumed that the top pivot ball and bottom pivot ball was a type of ball and socket. Thanks again for your help.
 
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