Hope some one can help,04 sportsman 400
secondary clutch makes "noise" but only at idle and in neutral.Rev the engine and it seems to go away.(hope I am right when I say secondary clutch,its the one with out the weights right?)
The quad runs fine,takes off from a stop good,but the noise cant be right,can it?
The noise is hard to describe,kind of dull mettalic sounding.I thought at first it was just the belt when slack slapping off the cover,but the noise is still there,although a little different sounding,with the cover off!!!!

 

Grab the front part of the drive clutch and see if there is play side to side when you turn it. This is where most of the clacking on clutches usually comes from.Worn guide buttons usually plus if it really starts to wear you can see and feel grooves in the guide button ramps on the clutch. Rear clutch ramp buttons can wear down also and can make a metallic noise from the helix ramping up against the inner clutch sheath. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

The noise seems to be coming from the rear clutch,I know it isnt difficult to remove,but when I do what do I look for.Do the two halves come apart easy.I am not familiar with the workings,but I am pretty good mechanically and not afraid to tear into it for a quick look see.i will go surf youtube for agood video of someone taking one apart,do you know of a good site where i could see it done

 

A good manual helps,but it's not necessary.Not too many videos I've seen that show step by step. Remove the 1/2" bolt and slip the rear clutch off. Tap down on the helix enough to remove the circlip and washer. Once the helix comes up the clutch will unwind the spring. Don't worry! Remove the helix and spring which will expose the three ramp buttons. If they're really worn you can tell quickly. These are held in by t 25 torque screws. Hopefully the buttons and helix aren't worn down to nothing or you have problems! You can blow out all the belt dust from the clutch halves and helix in an open area.Replace the buttons if needed.To reassemble, the helix has a wide notch that lines up with the shaft. The spring can go either way. Place the end on the spring in #2 position on the helix,align the helix on the shaft,turn the clutch sheath until you can place the other end of the spring on#2 position on the clutch body.Next step helps to have a pair of c-clamps or helping hands. Push the helix down a little,hold the bottom clutch sheath,turn the upper sheath 1/3 turn counter clockwise(the helix will stay in position). Then hold both sheaths or clamp them and knock the helix down all the way. Install the washer and circlip and remove the clamps. The clutch sheath should spring back and you should be able to turn it and should snap back again. Then reinstall it,place the belt over the front clutch and walk it over the rear.

 

Seems pretty straight-forward.The few videos I did see they seem to use a special tool to compress the helix,is there that much force on the spring?
Why would I have problems if the buttons and helix are wore to nothing,do you mean just because of the added expense,thats always a problem,lmao.
Hope this isnt too dumb of a question,but in order for the driven clutch to ramp open does the quad have to be in gear.I only revved mine while in neutral because I didnt have it up on jack stands and I didnt notice the clutch open,or maybe I didnt rev the engine enough.I wasnt reeady to get to deep into it at the time,was only picking around to get familiar with it.
.....and one more thing,does NAPA have a replacement belt for this model,and if so how would I find the part number.I am sure it would be considerably less than the dealer.

 

On the later model ebs clutches,yes the helix is tight to push in and needs the hold down tool to remove it,but not the non ebs clutches like yours.A good dead blow or brass hammer works ok to knock the helix down. The rear clutch should open when you give it throttle in neutral. If it doesn't,could be a broken spring. If the buttons are ground down and the screws chewed up or broken,clutch replacement may be necessary. I never had too much luck on trying to retap these and making the clutch hold up.

 

I think I just didnt rev it fast enough when I was poking around.Like I said earlier the quad runs fine with no loss of power so I assume it opens,although one should never assume anything.
Before I came back and read your reply I added a question to my earlier post on belts.Do NAPA sell one and how would I find out the part number.What is your opion on aftermarket belts?I am sure Polaris do not have a belt factory,or maybe its the same one where they make their mystery oils!!!!!!!!!!!
.....and thanks for all your help,if I ever get to Texas I will bring some good Canadian BEER,LOL.

 

Use oem Polaris belts! Many others will agree.. #321077 Item #3. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

I have a 2009 sportsman 500. 6000 miles
I have to replace the secondary clutch buttons about every 700 miles.
That's once or twice a year. I made a compression tool using 20" of
1/2 " all thread and a U-shaped piece of flat bar.Clamo it in vise.
Drop clutch onto. Flat bar tightened to compress. remove circlip.
My snow machine has 13,000 miles and the buttons are only half worn.
I tried to adapt extra water tight ventilation on the cover without success.
There is only one pipe at the top for venting.
I could sure use a roller clutch. Dealer says you have to replace both
primary and sec and new size belt at the same time.

 

2009 500 HO carb model had two different style secondary clutches. If you have one like this I just used a dead blow hammer and knocked the helix down enough to get the circlip off,then the clutch could be taken apart. http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...009&fveh=30479 If you have the efi or later model HO the secondary is different and tougher to work on I agree. Yes the dealer is right on this one about the clutches. Don't mix clutches between models or designs,just causes too many problems as people have found out.Both clutches need to work with each other,not fight against each other,plus using the correct belt is important too.I've had all kinds of miss matched clutches come into the shop that people couldn't get to work right.I just told em only way I could do anything with them was to order the correct clutches matched for each other,if not just take em home as I didn't want to mess with them.