....dont want to start and oil war,but just looking for some opions and info on the darn stuff.My o4 sportsman 400 calls for 0w-40 full synthetic.This stuff isnt readily availble other than at dealer,and its still pricey stuff.I guess what i need to know is would other full synthetic weights be o.k. to use,lets say 5w-30 or similar?

 

Anytime any one asks it usually starts another oil war! History of Polaris oil: Started out with 0w40,changed to 2w50,then to 5w50,also have "PS4 Plus extreme duty" 10w50,so the choice is really up to you. You can stay with 0w40 which is a good all around oil in Mobil 1,Amsoil,etc or really anything between 0w40 to 10w50 as long as it's full Synthetic! All depends if you're up north with those cold winters or down south where we have mild winters(usually) and summer temps over 100+. A lot of people stay with 0w40 as it can cover the full spectrum from cold to hot temps. Even 5w50 is rated at - 40 degrees to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Just my two cents,don't go past 10 wt as it's too thick on first crank up.Doesn't matter if it's car oil or even if is "energy or resource conserving" with friction modifiers as full size Polaris models have cvt clutches and not wet clutches,only exception is the Expedition model.

 

Thanks a million OPT for the info,and with that info there is no need for an oil war!!!!
I can pick up 5w-30 full synthetic for half the cost of 0w-40(why I have no clue)at my local auto supply store.It should cover all the temp ranges where I live,rarely below 10 C. or higher than 28 C.
Do you think this would be a wise choice just to save a few bucks,its always nice when they stay in my pocket and not big oils!!!!!!

 

Again just my on this.I'd feel safer with a 40 wt oil on a hot day. I'd either stay with 0w40 Mobil 1 or Amsoil,plus you might look at Rotella T6 5w40 full synthetic. Cheaper than a lot of designated atv oils oils and way cheaper than Polaris branded oils..Again it's up to you..

 

Odd that there is no common 0w-40 or 5w-40 for sale around you.
You did ok , the most important part is you kept your cold start viscosity weight low and stuck to "Full" synthetic. The dry sump Fuji motor wants oil flowing as quick as possible at start up.
Even those Synthetic blends are just a scam and are lucky to have 20% synthetic oil in them but almost still cost the same as the real thing.