I've read many posts on the stalling at idle issues and have begun the troubleshooting process. OPT has posted a lot of excellent information!

My recently acquired ride has had trouble starting, has backfired a couple times trying to start, and dies at idle . . . until it is warmed up, then seems to do okay. It had 20 hours and 40 miles total in 5 years (looks like new), and in three weeks with me now has 56 hours and 130 miles. So it sat a lot with previous owner(s). I figured it was bad gas, so treated with Seafoam and hoped to ride the tank out, put fresh gas in and press. In the mean time, have adjusted the throttle cable and re-seated many sensors with dialectric grease. Then I checked the codes last night and discovered a 22 (TPS) and 55 (Diagnostic Circuit). The battery tests good and has been disconnected several times in the past week, so the codes should have been reset.

So, I pulled the TPS connector out and what did I see? Someone had been poking into the wires and had neatly shaved the wire coatings off to test the TPS (or so I assume). It seems the stalling at idle problem was an existing issue when I bought the machine. The throttle body is clean, the butterfly valve looks completely closed at idle, and the idle stop screw/lock nut do not appear to have been tampered with.

The TPS resistance values checked out normal iaw the service manual. The MAP and gasket look fine. To manually test the TPS voltage (since the wires are already knifed into), can anyone clarify which of the 3 wires to tap (orange, dark green or violet)(I'm guessing dark green since that goes to the ECU) and what voltages to expect at idle and WOT?

Still hoping it runs better with fresh gas. I'll also replace all the fluids before the next ride.

Not sure specifically what blink codes 22 and 55 indicate, but I envision my next steps to be:

1. Test the TPS voltages.
2. Shoot the TPS and MAP wires for continuity. Anyone know where the Orange 2 and Violet wire splice locations are on this thing?
3. Replace all fluids and run it until it behaves.

All inputs are welcome!

 

I had a lot of people try home testing like the PO owner did on your machine. Code 22 is TPS circuit high,55 is diagnostic lamp code short. Backfiring ,no idle is consistent with map sensor harness wiring and connector shorts. Sounds like you may need a tps harness kit also. 90% of the time as the manual says it's not a sensor problem,but a wiring/connector problem. I'd flush this old gas out and order these two kits from here and hopefully this will solve the problem. They have both the heavy duty tps and map(pressure) sensor wire harness kits that aren't prone to fail like the cheap Polaris harness kits are. Only The Best

 

From section 4 of the service manual I discovered the answer to the wire splice location question: the splices terminate at the ECU connector. This wasn't immediately obvious to me from the wiring diagram, but I see it now. This should make the sensor wire continuity tests straight forward.

Only the Best TPS and MAP harnesses look like reasonable upgrade options, thx OPT.

Any Polaris TPS adjustment harness loaners in the PHX area?

 

Did the PO move the Tps sensor position? If not and the tps idle adjuster hasn't been touched,then I wouldn't waste my time on running a continuity check on this existing harness connector wiring. Wires can show continuity,but can't hold the voltage after awhile and can melt internally. I've found bare/shorted wires,soft feeling wires coming from both tps and map sensor connectors.

 

It appears PO did not move the TPS. Voltage looked good with 1.125 at idle position (spec: 1.1-1.14) and smooth rise as the butterfly opens. Continuity for tps and map wires was good, but I hear what you're saying about that.

 

Did a 60 mile trip on the quad yesterday on a run up to Crown King, AZ. The idle issue remains. It starts up okay in one or two tries, but I sometimes need to give it a touch of throttle to get it going. Once started, the RPM is a little erratic and varies between 900 and 1500. When it is to low it will stall. Just have to figure out what is causing the RPM to vary at idle. It seems to run okay otherwise.

 

Thumb throttle slack must be 1/8" only also or you could have the etc contacts touching causing problems,plus did you install the new harness kits? If you did and the idle is still erratic,the po may have messed with the tps setting, plus don't over look an air leak in the intake manifold that could be causing erratic idle.

 

I've replaced the TPS and map connectors with OTB. The machine is running better, but the idle is still a little erratic. It has not stalled the last few of starts. I think it's okay. However, I cannot get mal codes to reset: 42, 41, 22, 55.

Put a new drive belt in this morning and noticed significant cracks in the driven clutch housing. Looks like several examples on eBay have similar cracks. Is this normal?

 

Codes 41 air temp sensor circuit voltage low or high(located in back of the air box) Code 42 engine temp circuit (low or high) Code 22 Tps circuit(low or high) Code 55 diagnostic lamp sort to ground. Either you still have shorts in the tps harness kit wiring (isn't making a good wiring contact) or more wiring shorts can be further in the harness that the sensors tie into(harness that runs along the left side of the fuel tank) This can be frustrating if it is as I've had to strip sensor wiring harnesses way past their entry point into the main harness in order to find other shorts. Clutch looks like it's heat related stress cracks. I've has a lot that were just superficial cracks. Almost all clutches get some stress cracking after a few years,had a few that did start chunking metal.You can take it apart and see if any cracks are forming on the inside pf the sheaths. If they are,I'd plan on a new rear clutch in the near future.

 

As it turns out, the air temp, throttle position, and engine temp sensors all share a common wire from the violet splice to the ECU (pin E46). I'll check the ECU connection for a bent pin, shoot the wire, and re-seat the ECU connector. Fingers crossed - hope to not have to dig into the harness.