I just upgraded my clutch components with Aaen clutch kit.
It came with a Red Drive spring, Light Blue Driven spring and new Helix.
I also replaced the belt, buttons and the 3 shims between the clutch plates. .030, .020 and a .025.

Question is, how far down does the belt sit in the Driven clutch.
The old setup had the belt flush with the outer edge of the clutch.
The new spring setup has the belt about .5 inch inside the outer edge.
Is this normal? Do I have to spin it some to get the belt to come back up to even or?

I put the spring in the 2,2 slots. Did I do something wrong.. I didn't have to spin the clutch to put the helix and lock clip back on. Is this a step that I should have done to pre-load the spring or?
The old setup also had 2 shims between the helix and clip ring. I only put the washer back on it since the Manuals only show one washer and not shims.


thanks

 

You need to pre-load the secondary clutch by winding it before you install the snap ring. The 2 - 2 setting should work fine on the secondary. It would probably be wise to leave the same shims on the back of the secondary that you took off when you put it back on to keep proper alignment. Unless you have a clutch compression tool then you might want someone to help you when set the pre-load on the secondary.

When you put your drive belt back on you should have to spin the secondary and roll the belt on to get back on the clutches. If you can put it on easily over both clutches then the belt is too loose.

This video I made shows how the belt should sit on the clutches.

 

If you just changed the spring and the helix in the rear clutch and didn't pre load the helix and spring,it won't work right. You have to put the spring in the #2 position in the helix,Lower the helix on the shaft until the other spring end is able to be inserted into the #2 position of the clutch sheath. Helping hands a or c-clamps help on the next step. With spring in the helix and clutch sheath(helix is not to pushed down all the way at this time!) hold the bottom clutch sheath with your left hand,your stomach can hold the helix on the shaft.(bigger the gut the better) As the spring is tightened the helix will normally stay in place.
Turn the top sheath 1/3 turn counter clockwise and then hold both sheaths(helping hands or c-clamps) Knock the helix down flush,install the washer and circlip. When you let go of the clutch sheaths,the sheath should snap back under tension.

Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

does turning the sheaths actually do anything other than preload the spring to help you push the helix down? seems that you actually don't need to preload, if you have someone help you push the helix down. once you release the sheaths they go back to normal position, prior to the preload. I cranked the bike and the clutches and belt appears to work correctly and the belt moved back up to the outer position on the driven clutch.

do I need to pull it off and do the 1/3 turn? I just didn't see where the 1/3 turn did anything. But I could be missing something.

 

Preloading the spring is required to help make the secondary clutch operate properly under load. If you ride your Scrambler with the secondary clutch not setup properly with the proper preload it will not perform like it should.

Having the spring preloaded doesn't do anything to make it easier to push down and install the helix. If anything it makes it harder to install it when you start getting into stiffer secondary springs like an Aaen white secondary. The main thing to remember with the helix is to make sure the key way is lined up so you don't damage the splines on the shaft.

 

Affects clutch up shifting and down shifting according to tension on the spring. Chapter 6 Pages 16-18 in this pdf manual can explain better than I can on non ebs driven clutches.Same clutch that you have in the 99 Scrambler 500. Index of /ORV Manuals/Polaris/1985-1995 - All Models

 

ok, I pulled the clutch back off and did the 1/3 turn.. I didn't realize that the buttons held the moveable sheath. I thought the helix just rode up and down on the buttons. which it does.. but the buttons also limit the sheath from going back to the original position. so it basically clocks the sheath to a tighter helix location..
thanks guys.

another question. how important are the rubber backed buttons on the drive clutch.
the jask hole that put this machine together, rigged it all up. they didn't put the button back on the drive clutch. It rides like this, and you can see wear on the spider, etc.. where the spider and weights have all that play.. guess that might get rid of the knock once I replace those. any shortcut on the install or I have to remove the clutch and spider and then put them in.

 

The buttons on the primary clutch are very important. You have to remove the spider to replace them. While you have everything apart I would inspect all three weights to make sure none of them are broken or damaged.

This might help you http://gh-ftp.com/ORV%20Manuals/Pola...0%20-%20SM.pdf

I would start on page 119 and follow the instructions from there. The manual says for a 2003 model but Polaris didn't really change much on these quads from 1999 - 2003 except for the name and stickers.

 

I already replaced the weights and spring along with the small pins that hold the weights, they were worn pretty bad. I just noticed the buttons were missing when I was in there. I have a set coming as we speak.
any hints on removing the clutch.. I have the removal tool and have used an electric impact and air wrench on it. they aren't the best in torque and my air compressor is only good for a good few hits and then it needs a recharge.
I saw a vid about clutch removal on u tube and they had a bar going through the clutch to hold it and then used a hydro tool. I figured I'd use a bar through it and rest it against the footboard and then just use a 24" breaker.
would a little heat on the clutch hurt? would filling the hole with grease help using hydro pressure with the tool?

thanks

 

I always have to put a bar through my primary clutch to keep it from turning when I take it apart. The best advice I could give you is to invest in a decent torque wrench and always torque everything back to the factory specs when you put it back together. You don't want to overtighten any of the bolts on the clutches, head or cylinder becuase it will just lead to bigger headaches in the future. Also be careful and don't overtighten the screws that hold the clutch covers together because the clutch covers are just plastic and the threads are easy to damage.