I want to look go in and check/repack my front wheel bearings. Can I just pull off the hub and repack the bearing (are there 2 of them?) without causing any other issues? I've read about possibly damaging the hub seal etc. Can I clean the hilliard bearing also? Should I grease that too ,or just leave it alone? Then I re-torque at between 110 to 140 inch pounds right?

thanks.....

 

Here is a not bad video on it. Just skip to the half way point (4:10) to where he shows how to do it.

The torque is 13 or 14 ft/lb but I can,t remember.

 

Thanks for the video!
Looks pretty straight forward. I keep forgetting how valuable youtube is....

Kevin

 

Check first that you don't have any fluid leakage around the inside of the hub or around the inside of the strut,especially when you drain the old fluid out and if one side has less than the other. If you're going to take the hub off,replace the armature plates! No better time than when the hub is off and as cheap as these things are. Just might save you some future headaches if the old plates start to magnetize and you'd have to take it apart again. You can use cheap wally world brake or contact cleaner on the bearings and hilliard.Then lightly pack the bearings in grease,not slop it on like in the video. Awd may be erratic until all the grease thins down.Plus I just lubed the hilliard up with fluid,no grease. When you reinstall the hub,twist the hub on slowly( while holding the cv behind the strut) this allows the seal to spin over the hub seal sleeve without damage.You can usually get by on this if the seal is ok to begin with. I always torqued to 15 foot pounds or so to preload the bearings,back off 1/2 turn then torque to 12 foot pounds max. If the cotter pin doesn't line up,just back off the nut a little. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Plus I wasted a lot of fluid on rebuilds.I filled at 12 o'clock position until all the air bubbles were gone and sure fluid reached the back of the hub,then just turned to 4 o'clock to drain the excess.

 

Hey Polaris tech.....long time no see! haha! Thanks for the knowledge again.....

I think I should replace the armature plates while in there too, they are pretty cheap. I don't see any leaks around the strut , I've replaced my hub fluid a few times now and there was lots still in there.
The cycle parts site shows that I require 2 hub seals. I only see 1 in the diagram. Are there 2 per side or 2 for both sides?
I heard some say the roller clutch (hilliard) inside has a plastic cage and that there is a John Deere exact replacement for it if it ever fails that is all aluminum. Much stronger.You ever hear of that?

Kevin

 

Only the newer 2004 and up sp500 with the locking diff have the single plastic Roller Cage. The locking hubs system have metal roller cages on both sides which are metal.

Part #10 CAGE, ROLL
Part Number 3250028 Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse So your got as good as it gets.

 

Think you really need a manual if you don't have one.http://gh-ftp.com/ORV%20Manuals/Pola...0%20-%20SM.pdf

 

Great news on the roller cages....

Thanks for the manual link Polaris tech. I do have one already though...I find they seem vague. It didn't say anything about how to treat the roller cage assembly for lubrication that I saw?? You just oil yours while others grease them. Maybe this manual talks about it.....

Kevin

 

Manual says if you take the cam and roller bearings out of the roll cage to clean everything up, to use a light coat of grease on the roller bearings when you reinstall them under the garter spring then before you place the completed assy back on the cv shaft, test how the bearings ramp up in the cage by hand and to coat it with the "proper lubricant required" Demand Drive fluid. The main thing is not to pull up on the garter spring to install the bearings! Slide the bearings in to where the spring just rolls over them or you can stretch the spring causing problems.

 

Thanks!

I'll wait till I order the plates for this job. It's not fun doing something for the first time either. I don't want to mess anything up in there. Thanks for the advice!

Kevin