Update to a post I made a few weeks ago about a squeeling drive belt and the quad wanting to creep. Replaced the belt and there was no improvement so got checking things for misalignment and what I found blew my mind. The Support Stableizer Bar where it bolts to the transmission-rear drive was broke at all 4 bolts. Also broke was the transmission support bracket where it bolts to the transmission.

This quad has never been adsued and I bought it new so whats up with this? Is it a design flaw?

So I have the new parts on order but have another question. With the drive and driven pullys out of alignment as I assume they are and the new parts will solve the squeeling and creeping problem would the miss alignment cause the quads top end to deteriorate? Before I had found the broken parts I noticed when accelerating it ran good to about mid speed then with more accelerator it would just flatten out. Do I have a different problem in progress?

The quad is a Sportsman 500 Deluxe 2007 with 1100 hours on it with good maintance. I appreciate you fellas responding to this and thank you in advance.

 

Probably just a fluke. Stabilizer bar could have had a bad heat treatment or the trans support bracket could have been the problem and caused stress on the stabilizer bar when it cracked. I'd check all the mounting bolts on the transmission to see if any are loose or missing also. Possible it could throw the rear clutch out of alignment causing the creeping,but I'd fix this area first and see how she does.http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...007&fveh=11305

 

Here is another update and it is not what I would have preferred. Put a new Support Bar and a new transmission bracket on the quad . Fired the quad up and when putting it in reverse it started to creep as it did with the broken parts described above then it died. Got on the quad started it put in reverse and as it started to back up it coughed and died. Hit the starter and it cranked maybe 5 seconds then acted like the battery ran down then nothing. The dash lights up as normal and when hitting the starter all I get is a clicking noise. When I turn the headlights on they look pretty bright. The starter will not work with the thing in park neutral and with the brake squeezed. Out of frustration I jumped the battery and got a good spark. That might have been a mistake thinking about it now. If it was a 50's ford I would have it running.

It was 15 degrees so put a charger on the battery and it showed charged in about 3-5 minutes. Does a regular 2 amp charger hurt a ATV battery? The day before I replaced the damaged transmission metal I drove it up to the top of the property and it barely pulled the hill in high gear and normally would just go right up. So the problem with the quad flattening out as described above is still there.

Are there any electronics I should look at first? I put a new ECM or Moodule Control (the one that is finned) in about 8 months ago (thanks for leading me to that) so hopefully it's not that. I have a spare battery here by the wood stove charging for use tomorrow.

One more thing . Is all the clutch alignment stuff done with the movement of the motor mounts?

Thanks for your time. Maybe this quad tops out at 1100 hours??

 

On any battery have it load tested first as they can show 12 + volts fully charged,but soon as a load is put on them,voltage can drop like a rock. Just had to change out my old Honda battery after about 6 years. Showed 12.8 volts charged,but dropped to 7.5 when tried to crank.Shouldn't drop no lower than about 9.3 volts under initial load if the battery is good.If the battery load tests ok,then could be other problems such as a solenoid or starter. On creeping you can check the motor mounts for excessive movement or separation plus see how the belt rides on the clutches. Clutch alignment along with the front clutch one way bearing fiber washer and metal washer wear caused a lot of problems. Here's several posts on this.2002 500 Sportsman belt alignment - ATVConnection.com ATV Enthusiast Community

 

Ok OPT here is where I'm at. Pulled both the primary and secondary clutches off the quad. The dealer ship here in Idaho had no problem lending me the pullers so that went good.

Removed the starter this morning. Grounded it on the negative post on the battery and hit it with the positive and it runs. Went to repeat and it would not run. Spun the shaft by hand tried again and it ran. Did that a half dozen times and it would run off and on. So will rebuild it with a kit. What is your opinion on the available kits? Also what is your opinion on the rebuilt starters for a third of the cost of a new starter?

Now the Drive clutch. This machine is a 2007 500 w/ Automatic Decent Control and Engine Braking so when looking at the clutch there is what I assume to be the One Way Bearing on the shaft between the sheaves. My first question before tearing it apart is should I be able to spin the One Way Bearing simply by reaching in with my finger? I tried and it won't turn and seems very tight. That would certainly explain the creeping right?

Second question is should I go into the secondary and just clean it up while I have everything out? Actually both are very clean so?????

Have watched some video so I can build the tools needed to take apart the drive clutch and already have the torque wrench but may let the dealer do it if the One Way Bearing is shot. If I decide to take it apart when going back together I noticed some use Lock Tight or something but some don't . What is your preference?

Again thanks for your expertise.

 

Starters are so cheap now,installing a brush kit isn't worth the effort. Plus most times the rebuilt starters don't hold up. You can get just a starter or a complete starter and bendix here or check ebay.DB Electrical - Sportsman Read these posts, will show what tools are needed as far as the clutches and one way bearing washer replacement plus alignment on the clutches.Good info.2002 500 Sportsman belt alignment - ATVConnection.com ATV Enthusiast Community

 

Ok another question. Built all the tools to unscrew the spider and works great. Now that I have it tore apart and if you look at the attached pictures that is the one way bearing on the shaft right? Two pictures one broadside and one looking down.

Well it does not turn and have done everything trying to get it loose short of putting a tool on it. My question is will I screw up putting a tool on it and getting it off of there and replacing it with a new one.

Is there is a trick way of getting it off without screwing things up. If so could you please explain? It would be simple to just put a pipe wrench on it and spin it off or something similar. That thing should go back together dry right?

I appreciate all the help from you. My first time fooling with one of these clutches. Have a 1996 Polaris here and the clutch has never been touched.

 

You have the smooth one way and a little different than the ribbed one,but works the same. Try some PB Blaster and heat along with a big pair of channel locks. Let the penetrating oil seep down into the bearing for awhile,heat the bearing up with a torch,rock it back and forth to see if you can free it up and remove it.May or may not be able to save it,but hopefully you wont damage the shaft. You'll need both to replace both washers,item #1,probably a new one way bearing#2,and washer#4 along with any other needed parts.Don't overlook the plain bearing #3 that goes into the spider itself. If it's really worn you'll see mostly brass.Just check if the spider has a lot play when it's on the shaft as to where it needs to be replaced or not. Dirt Cheap Yamaha & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Got the one way bearing off. As it came off some of the pin bearings fell out and the race is broke. If there was a rubber seal on the engine side like on the other end it was gone as was the thrust washer so it's trashed. The shaft is fine

OK the Plain Bearing #3 looks all brass so I need to replace it also. How tight is it and is there a easy way to knock it out. Heat up the housing around it and knock it out with something that fits the hole and drive the new one in?

Happy Thanksgiving OPT appreciate your help.

 

Most people don't have the bushing removal/installation kit and it's not worth buying for one job. Just heat the clutch sheath up and knock the old one out while you have the new one in the freezer. If you have a race/bearing installer kit(cheap) you can at least get most of the bushing to seat.You may have to seat it a little further with a punch. Any burr spots you can dremel a little.https://polaris.service-solutions.co...71&cat=1&sub=8