Hi OPT,

I broke the right rear half shaft (where the u joint goes) So i bought two new ones and I replaced the right one then the when I went to do the left one the piece that is in the transmission that the bolt from the half shaft bolts into was pushed into the trany. I had a heck of a time getting it back close enough for the bolt to catch it but then it would just spin with the bolt. I finally put a battery operated 3/8 drive impact on the bolt and got it to tighten up and I checked it with the ratchet and tightened it the rest of the way. What I am wondering is, the center piece there in the trany, should that move around?

 

Yes the spacer can spin.. Don't tell anyone but I hated the yoke type rear axles also.What you have to do(now that you've got if finished) is to hold the bolt on the other side drive shaft,turn it clockwise as you loosen the one side.Pain in the butt if you let it unscrew off the other side also.Sorta similar to front a-arm bolts when changing bushings in that you need too loosen both bolts at the same time and start each each bolt back and tighten a little on each side before you tighten it down or one bolt will spin with the a arm shaft. Glad when they went to just the splined shaft models. Item #10 is the culprit.Dirt Cheap Yamaha & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

so basically I need to have left bolt and right bolt evenly threaded into the middle spacer? I changed the right one first and blue lock tighted it in then I did the left one.

 

Yes it's best to start the bolts at the same time. You're not the first one to get frustrated by this little spacer.

 

Lol okay thanks for ur help I will do this I appreciate your wisdom! Hope u r enjoying the weather down there seeing how it is -12F up here in WNY

 

Pretty and sunny 75 degrees yesterday.. A little colder and rain next couple days,but think we may survive..

 

I was rereading this old post from last year, the after market drive shafts that I installed are not oem equivalent as they claimed to be. the thickness of the metal that goes around the u-joint (the yoke) is thicker than the originals and they bind up. I took a grinder and grinded where the yokes were binding. since I changed the drive shafts I dont have any issues if I go slow but if I am driving any faster than 15mph, when I let off the gas or turn the rear end makes noise and shakes, sort of rattling... does that ring any bells? maybe when Installed them I missed something or did not do something?

 

Main yokes at each side the transmission need to be lined up with each other in unison or will throw things off balance causing shimming,shaking at speeds.. Again I hated these style driveshafts.

 

I don't completely understsnd ur instructions. I am sitting here at the wheeler rereading what u said and I don't exactly get what u r saying I should do.

 

The drive shaft yokes at the transmission end need to be in the same position on each side or an imbalance can happen. Here's a pic of a bad one as reference. On the other side of the transmission the yoke needs to be in the same position so both driveshafts turn evenly.Balance is affected if they're not. This may or may not be your problem on vibration.Doesn't matter if they're straight up or sideways,just so long as the driveshafts are aligned evenly.