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Old Oct 10, 2015 | 12:18 PM
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I have a 2007 polaris sportsman 700 efi the battery light went to flashing every now and then so I put a new regulator on it and it still would flash every now then so I changed the starter out still would still flash every now then so I put a new wire harness on it and now it will not start at all so I took the new wire harness back off and put the old wire harness back on it and still no start so put the new wire harness back on it.I have good battery power. But I have no power to the fuel pump are to the coil pack and all relays r good and fuse I am not getting any codes the only thing I can think of is the ecm went bad
 
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Old Oct 10, 2015 | 12:43 PM
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First off when you installed the new regulator was it charging back to the battery? If so,then the battery may be at fault and may not be able to hold the charge.Load testing is the best way to tell on the battery. Sounds like you've changed everything else.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2015 | 12:56 PM
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Sounds like the battery to me. Powersports batteries don't last like automotive batteries. If you get 3-4 years out of one you're doing great. I'm guessing this was probably the 2nd battery and its probably used up. I probably would have changed out the battery first as its the easiest thing to do.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2015 | 07:01 PM
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I have checked the battery and it holds a good charge and turns over great it just no power to the fuel pump and coil pack
 
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Old Oct 10, 2015 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
First off when you installed the new regulator was it charging back to the battery? If so,then the battery may be at fault and may not be able to hold the charge.Load testing is the best way to tell on the battery. Sounds like you've changed everything else.
I have checked the battery and it holds a great charge and turns the 4 wheeler over fine but I have no power to the fuel pump and coil pack is my problem and I am not getting any codes
 
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Old Oct 10, 2015 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Dew519
I have checked the battery and it holds a great charge and turns the 4 wheeler over fine but I have no power to the fuel pump and coil pack is my problem and I am not getting any codes
When you say you've "checked" the battery,have you had the battery placed on a load tester to see if voltage drops?A battery can show over 12 volts,but a bad cell in one can show up as soon as you place any kind of load on one. Simply turning the key on can cause voltage drops too low to start one or even power up electrical accessories if the battery is weak.

If the battery is ok then you can check the fuse block wiring. This was another problem area on shorts,wires pulling out. You can remove the block and check underneath for any wiring problems. Both relays are the same,one for the fan,one for the fuel pump.They can be swapped around for testing if need be.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2015 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
When you say you've "checked" the battery,have you had the battery placed on a load tester to see if voltage drops?A battery can show over 12 volts,but a bad cell in one can show up as soon as you place any kind of load on one. Simply turning the key on can cause voltage drops too low to start one or even power up electrical accessories if the battery is weak.How to test a car battery - YouTube

If the battery is ok then you can check the fuse block wiring. This was another problem area on shorts,wires pulling out. You can remove the block and check underneath for any wiring problems. Both relays are the same,one for the fan,one for the fuel pump.They can be swapped around for testing if need be.
I have a brand new wire harness on it and I am getting power to all the fuse on both sides and I have done a load test and I have even put the old wire harness back on it and it still will not start up the only thing left to change out is the ecm and thank you for your help.I have ordered a new ecm for it and I will let yall know if that fix it.I have drop a lot of money on this thing and I am just about to the end of my rope with it and yes I have changed the relay around to and I hear them click like there kick in and out and I have done some more research on it and there say when that happens more than likely the ecm is bad.the ecm,stator,Crack sensor r the only thing I have not changed out
 
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Old Oct 11, 2015 | 08:14 AM
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I know it's a little too late now,but possibly would have been a lot less stress,time and money to have it hooked up to Digital Wrench to help narrow down the problem rather than throwing a lot of parts at it.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
I know it's a little too late now,but possibly would have been a lot less stress,time and money to have it hooked up to Digital Wrench to help narrow down the problem rather than throwing a lot of parts at it.
But with it not showing any codes how will they find the problem because I use to work on cars for a living and if the computer wouldn't show us a code it was hard for us to find the problem and I have ran into this same problem with vehicle when I worked in a shop even dealership have had this problem when the computer will not shot a code out and it shows everything to be good and all this started with the battery light that would flash every now and then
 
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Dew519
But with it not showing any codes how will they find the problem because I use to work on cars for a living and if the computer wouldn't show us a code it was hard for us to find the problem and I have ran into this same problem with vehicle when I worked in a shop even dealership have had this problem when the computer will not shot a code out and it shows everything to be good and all this started with the battery light that would flash every now and then
You may not show any codes on the display,in fact a lot of codes that show up may even be bogus codes, but Digital Wrench can go through a sequence of tests on the electrical system that can at least narrow down where a problem may be occurring. Not even Digital Wrench is is perfect,100% fool proof,but there are times when it's cheaper to pay a shop and hr labor in most cases to hook it up and run a diagnostic scan. Shorts or intermittent problems can be a bear to trace down,but hard core parts such as stators,coils,ecus, ecms or pdms, wiring harness faults,sensor shorts can usually be picked up. At the shop a lot of things on our own we couldn't find,but in most cases Digital Wrench could at least get us going in the right track without having to wade through or replace parts that we weren't sure of.
 
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