so im trying to get my brothers quad going(runs but needs carb rebuilt and cleaned)

while we were at it we opted to premix instead of using the oil injector..

all i did was take of the oil line at the injector and capped it, i left the cable hooked up and everything so the throttle wouldnt stick...will this be ok? does the injector use suction to pull the oil in or is there gears or something in there that needs the oil so it doesnt cause anything to seize

so in a nutshell, is it fine to plug the oil inlet and leave the cable hooked up? no block off kit needed?

 

It's fine to plug the injector at the base of the cylinder and good that you left the pump and cable hooked up as it would affect throttle tension with a single cable in the dual cable setup.Several people at the shop found that out. Only other way to do it right would be to go to an individual cable at more expense. The oil pump just pumps the oil it receives by gravity from the oil tank to the injector which is little more than a nozzle inlet. It works on oil pressure from the pump and also vacuum also as it pulls the oil in the crank case by the bottom of the piston on it's downward travel. There it mixes with the fuel/air mix from the carb. The old 300 was a better system imo as it injected oil into the carb and sprayed gas/oil mixture directly into the crank case. Basically same as what you're doing by premixing the gas and oil in the tank..

 

thanks again!

 

got the carb sorted i think, no more overflow everything is new and clean with rebuild kit...

before the carb rebuild it would run for a minute then sputter out no matter if u gave it throttle or not

so i rebuilt the carb, started with a dry carb in a cpl pulls, smoked like hell..revved fine, then i let it idle(set the idle, it does respond to idle adjustment), it will idle fine and rev fine for a minute and will stay running fine if i keep brapping the throttle, but when i let off it will now idle again for a minute(maybe less) then start to bog down..it just keeps bogging till it shuts down but if i crack the throttle half or more it will come back to life and run fine for a minute again

also, when it starts to bog i can flip the choke and it will help it not die so fast and when restarting, i have to choke it for a cpl pulls

am i missing something? (airbox was off while i did this, mixture screw is 1n a half out)

 

Always adjust a carb with the air box on.

 

i figured that might be it(couldnt get the box wiggled on with 1 hand for the life of me lol, will have it on tomorrow)..BUT, i had it kinda on just not clamped down and it was going to act the same im sure before it rattled off...ill have the box on tomorrow nice n tight to be sure but is this a symptom of a fouled plug? been 15 years since ive dealt with 2 strokes and their fouled plugs

 

Always have a NGK BR8ES plug handy for the 250 just in case they foul. If the plug doesn't help with holding an idle,look into replacing the crank seals that everyone forgets about.

 

i got a new plug, ill slap it in...ive warned my brother about the crank seals before i even started working on it for him

would the crank seals cause those symptoms tho? i thought it would make it unable to adjust idle and it would rev out of control with an air leak, instead of bogging and dying.. just trying to get some 2 cents

also, what should i pre mix the 250...i got 40:1 or 32:1 in it now(cant remember, was for my weed eater lol)

 

Seals can cause a no run condition even if top end compression is good,can cause bogging from too much fuel not enough air,also can cause high revving if too much air and not enough fuel.. In other words they can cause all sorts of problems.On these low compression engines I'd mix 40/1.

 

thanks again! got the new spark plug in..the old one came out black and it was a champion..its idleing fine it seems but still have to feather the throttle kinda to get er into the higher rpms

does the left over fuel that may have been in the crankcase burn up after running for a bit or do i need to check n drain?