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Polaris Trailblazer 250 will not start

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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 09:48 AM
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Default Polaris Trailblazer 250 will not start

Ok So I do have some mechanical aptitude but I cannot figure this one out. My trailblazer used to start on the first pull with no issues at all now it wont fire. I have a new coil and good spark 122 lbs of compression with the throttle open and what appears to be way more fuel than needed as the plug is soaked with fuel. I dont see where this has a reed cage so ruling out a broken reed at the moment. Last weekend I was able to get it started and it puked all kinds of fuel out of the pipe ran great for twenty mins and then abrubtly quit. and hasnt started since. frustrated for sure but need to know what direction to go in before I lose my sanity. Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 11:27 AM
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No reeds,a simple piston port engine. Compression is within range,if spark is good and plug is wet,first thing I'd do is pull the drive clutch and replace the crank seal. This is the one that usually leaks first or sometimes can even pop out. If you don't have good bottom end compression,fuel/air/oil can't compress and shoot up the transfer ports for ignition. Only thing that happens when seals are bad is that you end up with more fuel than air and spark plugs just end up wet and fouled. Wouldn't hurt to go through the carb also as a worn needle and seat can do the same thing. Kits for these are cheap. Shindy Carburetor Rebuild Kit Polaris Trail Blazer 250 96 00 1996 2000 Carb | eBay So are the seals.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Trai...hXjN1s&vxp=mtr
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
No reeds,a simple piston port engine. Compression is within range,if spark is good and plug is wet,first thing I'd do is pull the drive clutch and replace the crank seal. This is the one that usually leaks first or sometimes can even pop out. If you don't have good bottom end compression,fuel/air/oil can't compress and shoot up the transfer ports for ignition. Only thing that happens when seals are bad is that you end up with more fuel than air and spark plugs just end up wet and fouled. Wouldn't hurt to go through the carb also as a worn needle and seat can do the same thing. Kits for these are cheap. Shindy Carburetor Rebuild Kit Polaris Trail Blazer 250 96 00 1996 2000 Carb | eBay So are the seals.Polaris Trail Blazer 250, 1990-2006, Engine Crank Seals | eBay
I appreciate the help! I finally got around to taking the carb off to install the shindy kit you recommended and also drained the bottom end which I got about a half a quart of raw fuel out of. The gas had been left on which is typically a big no no so I figured needle and seat. after draining fuel i pulled it one time and it popped like it was going to run so thinking all the problem was fixed I put everything back together pushed it outside and...nothing! lol! so going to move on to the crank seals. Thanks again for the advice, and is their anything special about taking the drive clutch off? Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Dec 17, 2016 | 07:24 AM
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Worst crank seal is usually behind the drive clutch. You can buy the 35 buck puller on ebay or just gt a 3/4 in bolt,16 pitch(may have to use a spacer) and pull the clutch. The flywheel needs a harmonic balancer puller to get to this side seal.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2017 | 05:04 PM
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Default Thanks for the help!

Well you were right I ordered the seals you recommended changed the one behind the clutch and fired it up. Took a little bit aas there must of still been fuel in the bottom end as it was puking it out the silencer for a little while and smoked for a little bit after that but all seems right with the world now!
 
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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 08:43 AM
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People over look seals more commonly the pto seal behind the drive clutch. This is the most common seal to fail or even pop out of place. Glad it solved your problem.
 
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