Hello,

I am new to this site and have been using it for technical advice and find it very useful.

I have a 2001 Xplorer 400 that has no spark. I have gone through the Service Manual troubleshooting guide and have the following information:
1) Chassis to Engine resistance= 0 ohms
2) Trigger coil resistance(W to W/R) 99.5 ohms, need 97
3) Charge coil resistance(R to BLK/R) 228 ohms, need 226
4) Y to Grd, 0 ohms
5) R to Grd, 0 ohms
6) W to Grd, 0 ohms
7) Y to Y/BRN (charge coil) .7 ohms, need .17
8) Y/R to Y/BRN .8 ohms, need .17
9) Black wire to kill switch-disconnected
10) W/BLU wire to coil 0 VDC both with key on and cranking
11) Tab to Grd on coil, .9 ohms
12) Coil Secondary, cap removed 6200 ohms
13) Coil Secondary with cap 11,200 ohms

What next? Any help appreciated. Getting no spark. Time for new stator? Candidate for EMStator DC conversion?

Thanks in advance for your help.

John

 

Pull the black kill wire from the reverse limiter and check for spark. If no spark,pull the black wire from the cdi. If still no spark,you've eliminated the pick up coil, main stator,ignition switch,limiter module and ignition coil as problem areas. Sounds like that leads to the cdi module itself.

 

Thanks OPT, I took the black kill wire from reverse limiter and still no spark. Forgot to mention that I have installed a new CDI unit and coil with plug wire and cap.

Tested trigger coil and battery coils for AC voltage while cranking also. Had about .18 VAC from trigger coil and 5 VAC on battery coil(Y to Grd).

Looking at RMStator conversion now. I'm stumped.

 

Before you do that check out the left control switch as far as you can. Try some electrical spray in the crevices and work the on off switch back and forth.You can remove the black harness wire or snip it if you have to and see if you have spark. Not uncommon for these switches to cause problems also when they corrode up.

 

Thanks again, I have the black wire from kill switch disconnected. I managed to pull flywheel today using a bunch of heat and a puller. Not easy. Found chunks of magnet behind flywheel. Now I remember, last time we went to ride, it started and quit. Then when I cranked it there was some crunching noise going on. Now I know why. Turns out that a piece of one of the flywheel magnets had broken off and was floating in there. Not sure how much damage occurred, but I am replacing flywheel and stator to make sure. When I get new parts and installed I will report back, hopefully with positive results.

As long as gaps are correct, is there any issue with timing when replacing the stator? Will the angle be correct if I just unbolt and replace?

 

Yes a broken magnet can cause problems.No problem on timing if you don't remove the stator plate. If you do,just mark the plate and case. You can tell where the new stator needs to be mounted on the plate by the wiring. Look at the old one before you remove it. Pick up coil face to flywheel strip shows between .016-.040 clearance.

 

Here's a pic of the magnet on the flywheel.




Just one magnet damaged.

 

Here's a pic of the damaged magnet.




This is the only one of six that is damaged.

 

Replaced entire stator and harness with new along with new(used) flywheel. Still no spark. Tried old coil, new CDI and various combinations. Still no spark.

Where do I go from here?

 

Ok lets back up a little.. Do you have the black wire from the reverse limiter loose? If still no fire did you disconnect the black wire from the cdi to isolate it from the kill system? Also do you only have 1/8" slack at the thumb lever so the etc contacts won't touch? Is the used flywheel an exact replacement for the old one? If it's not some flywheels won't work right. Plus did you order the stator complete with a new pick up coil? If so make sure the pick up coil white and white/red haven't been swapped in the connector. Have found that to happen also.