Xplorer 250 4x4 2001 - leaking strut arm / bearing
#1
Forgive me in advance for not knowing the proper terminology.
I sent my 2001 xplorer 250 4x4 to the dealer to repair what I though were seals of some sort as the front right hub would leak out all off the hub oil shortly after filling it up. It all leaked out towards the inside of the wheel, under the atv. I did replace the outer hueb cap sea o ring. The dealer called and advised that it must have been run without fluid for some time because there was a groove worn in the inside of the strut arm that would let the hub fluid leak even if new seals and bearings were installed.
He advised that my options were $1000 for a new strut arm assembly installed by them, or take it home and either install a used replacement strut arm, install 2wd A arms on it and run it in 2wd forever, or to pull the front bearings, pack them with grease, and run it in 2wd forever, maybe packing them with grease on occasion.
I do use this to plow and would really like my 4wd for that......if possible without dumping a lot of money into it.
What years makes models strut arms would I be looking for for a replacement? I’m sure it’s more than just the 4x4 xplorer 250...... other xplorer models, sportsman, trailboss, etc.
Do I have any simple fixes that haven’t been mentioned? Which options above would be the best, assuming they’re really doable even if it means no 4wd?
Thanks in advance for the input.
I haven’t picked up the atv yet from the dealer so I can’t provide any pics or exact info on the details he provided me via phone.
I sent my 2001 xplorer 250 4x4 to the dealer to repair what I though were seals of some sort as the front right hub would leak out all off the hub oil shortly after filling it up. It all leaked out towards the inside of the wheel, under the atv. I did replace the outer hueb cap sea o ring. The dealer called and advised that it must have been run without fluid for some time because there was a groove worn in the inside of the strut arm that would let the hub fluid leak even if new seals and bearings were installed.
He advised that my options were $1000 for a new strut arm assembly installed by them, or take it home and either install a used replacement strut arm, install 2wd A arms on it and run it in 2wd forever, or to pull the front bearings, pack them with grease, and run it in 2wd forever, maybe packing them with grease on occasion.
I do use this to plow and would really like my 4wd for that......if possible without dumping a lot of money into it.
What years makes models strut arms would I be looking for for a replacement? I’m sure it’s more than just the 4x4 xplorer 250...... other xplorer models, sportsman, trailboss, etc.
Do I have any simple fixes that haven’t been mentioned? Which options above would be the best, assuming they’re really doable even if it means no 4wd?
Thanks in advance for the input.
I haven’t picked up the atv yet from the dealer so I can’t provide any pics or exact info on the details he provided me via phone.
#2
If you're handy with tools you can solve this yourself. Dealer is talking about a strut seal sleeve that's pressed on. They can get grooved up and leak even with a new hub seal and strut seal. The manual goes into good detail on changing this seal sleeve and usually you have to replace the hub coil also as most of the time you'll damage it taking the seal sleeve off.Items#13,14 in the parts break down.Down load this cheap manual and look over the front drive system. 2001 Polaris Xplorer 4X4 Service Manual PDF Download Several videos on the awd system(all models have the same system) along with this one on how one owner removed his worn sleeve. You can gently tap off the sleeve as shown in the manual or try his method to try to save the coil. Manual shows how to replace the sleeve and adjust the sleeve to the strut inner pole.
#3
Thank you so much for you reply. I finally got working on this and tore it apart tonight. There is some groves in the sleeve but they’re very shallow, like real shallow, you can only feel them. Is that enough to cause the leaking?
Whats this blue seal behind the sleeve, does it do anything? Mine is melted, the top portion.
Both sides of my brake disk are wet with fluid.
Any ideas where im leaking fluid from? Still think that sleeve is the cause?
i have pictures but have no idea how to post them.
Whats this blue seal behind the sleeve, does it do anything? Mine is melted, the top portion.
Both sides of my brake disk are wet with fluid.
Any ideas where im leaking fluid from? Still think that sleeve is the cause?
i have pictures but have no idea how to post them.
#4
Silicone is what secures the seal sleeve in place. First off check voltage to the hub coil gray wire while in gear,ignition switch on,awd button engaged.Also wouldn't hurt to check resistance on the hub coil. Should be 25-27 ohms between the gray and brown wires.IF the seal sleeve only has slight wear grooves then you can usually be ok with just a hub seal replacement. The hub seal can be knocked out with a punch,BUT the new one has to be pressed in or you'll damage the seal trying to hammer it in. I wasn't in favor of just replacing the hub seal only. The inner strut seal in a lot of cases would need to be replaced also.This seal keeps the fluid in the hub from leaking through the bearings onto the cv boot and inner wheel rim. This seal can be popped out and easily replaced,but the a-arm has to be dropped at the ball joint,tie rod end removed from the strut,and the strut pulled out far enough to wiggle the drive shaft out from the strut. If you're going to do that,about as easy to remove the whole strut and work on it on your work bench. Again the 5 buck manual can help,shows a lot that can help you on seal replacement,hub coil replacement if needed,along with adjusting the seal sleeve to the coil.
#5
“ The inner strut seal in a lot of cases would need to be replaced also.This seal keeps the fluid in the hub from leaking through the bearings onto the cv boot and inner wheel rim.”
This is what I have going on here.
#6
The inner strut seal just pops out with a cheap seal puller. Mark around the old seal first as a guide as it sits down about an 1/8" from being flush with the inner strut casting. Just knock out the large hub seal with a punch. If you don't have a press,have a neighbor or shop press it in for you.
#7
The inner strut seal just pops out with a cheap seal puller. Mark around the old seal first as a guide as it sits down about an 1/8" from being flush with the inner strut casting. Just knock out the large hub seal with a punch. If you don't have a press,have a neighbor or shop press it in for you.
I pressed that inner strut seal in too far, only a hair further than it was previous and it bottomed out on me. Should I order a new seal and try again or just go for it and cross my fingers? I don’t think I can back it off a hair (maybe 1 mm) without damaging it. Thoughts. Thanks
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#8
I pressed that inner strut seal in too far, only a hair further than it was previous and it bottomed out on me. Should I order a new seal and try again or just go for it and cross my fingers? I don’t think I can back it off a hair (maybe 1 mm) without damaging it. Thoughts. Thanks
If it was this deep before (deep enough that I only went 1mm past my mark and bottomed) was it incorrect?


