Hey fellas. I need some help. i haven't the foggiest idea how to adjust the valves on my rancher. all i know is that i need to. my rancher has nearly 500 miles on it an i haven't had the dealer do anything but the recalls (because they were free). i refuse to pay 100 plus bucks for a oil change and valve adjustment. i was wondering if anyone could walk me thru it. i'm sure i have all the tools and skill to do it but don't want to fool with it till i know how it's done. i don't have a shop manual yet nore have the money for it. any help would be appriciated.

thanks
cart

 

I'd walk you through it but it would take about a ten page post to do it. It's not difficult but a lot of stuff has to be taken off in order to get to the valves (plastic, gas tank, etc.). The shop manual is invaluable, it's the only way you're going to be able to adjust them and not screw something up. I got mine for $35 from the local honda dealer. I'd mow lawns or something to get the money. Heck, $35 ain't much.

 

I think you can get the clymer manuals for $25. They show good pictures and explain in detail. My honda dealer told me it would only be $30 to adjust the valves on my ex. Thats cheap.

 

Check out TexMudder's webpage. He has a procedure written for it.

 

Keep in mind that valve adjustment is probably the most overworked ATV maintenance item. And as you have learned, it is also a good source of income for dealers. Valve clearances usually grow more loose (greater tapping clearances) over time which only translates into a small loss in power. However, if set to tight by an owner who thinks they need frequent adjustment and you'll soon have burned valve seats and need for a new cylinder head. I used to check the clearances on both my Honda and Kawasaki at least once a year but have yet to find them out of spec. With that I mind, I now only check them when they sound too noisy. Just keep in mind that a noisy valve is safer on the engine than one that is too tight.

 

Instructions and pictures are on my site.

 

I am about an hour from you across the river from Ravenswood WV. I have a rancher also that needs the valves adjusted. I have the shop manual if you want to head up here and do both quads. Let me know

Jboz

 

I just went through the same bunch of information today about my 400EX. How often to tighten, pay the dealer or do it myself, what to do . . . what to do.

Here's the answer I have come up with by talking to may people. Don't mess with the thing unless it is starting hard or making a lot of tapping noise (too tight valves) or has a large loss of power that you're noticing (too loose valves). If your machine runs fine, leave it be. The maintenance schedule is designed around the dealer making as much money as possible, especially with the valve adjustment.

However, if you feel you must have it done or you won't sleep at night, shop around because I've seen prices from $100 to only $30 for the job in my area.

 

thanks for the help everyone!!!!!

TEXmud....your site is awesome!

 

Loose valves will create more tapping noise since the rocker arms travel a longer distance to strike the valve stems. For this reason, people have a tendancy to set the clearances too tight (shorter tapping distance) to quiet them down.

The loss in power is the result of the intake valve opening a tad bit late since the rocker arm has more distance to travel. This results in slightly less air/fuel mixture being carried into the cylinder/combustion chamber.

When valves are too tight, the exhaust valve is opened too soon since the rocker arm had a shorter distance to travel before impacting the valve stem. This causes the valve to open while there is still fire in the cylinder which over time will burn the edge or "seat" in the head where the valve normally rests. The damage will eventually be such that the valve will leak compression.