I did the ole switch-a-roo with the linkage today. Not too big of a deal. I like the rear, but the front sits too high. It looks like one of those lowrider trikes. I seem to have the front shocks turned to the lowest point, any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

I believe that Bash performed this modification too and if I remember correctly he had to install aftermarket front shocks to get the front end down. Check out his site at: http://www.metalcraft-ar15.com/bash/Default.htm

 

Good memory Racer_X.

Yes, I waited until I got it just like I wanted before I flipped the rear. I ended up going with the Elka self-sagging (zero-preload) shocks. It's ride height is perfect now. I can adjust my shocks to where it sits dead even, lower in the front or higher in the front. So far, my favorite setting is with the front slightly higher than the front because it gives some additional rake to my front end geometry. If you've ever talked to Gabe (atc250r), you'll know that he is a big advocate of rake built into the frame, like is done on the 400ex and 250r. Well, I can't change the frame geometry, but by adjusting the ride height correctly, I've lowered my quad and in effect changed the rake since it can be measured not in relation to the frame, but in relation to a flat rolling surface.

Anyway, to make it short, yep the new shocks tie it all together. So far, Elka is the best priced zero-preload, adjustable shock I've saw if you get them from The Quad Shop. I'm conviced they are built as good or better than any other shock out there.

 

Bash, I'm in a dilema, If I buy new aftermarket shocks, can I still get aftermarket a-arms that will fit the same shocks? I just don't want to buy some new shocks and then have to buy new ones once I get new a-arms. I read somewhere that the new Strong a-arms will fit either-or. It just gets really spendy when you have to replace everything all over again. thanks, Bartman

 

Bartman,

Yes, at least I know that with the Elka, most A-arms will be able fit. Re-valving the shocks may be required due to the changed leverage of wider a-arms. It is my understanding that most aftermarket A-arms have the shock mounting point in the same location as the original. That is why you get extra wheel travel out of wider a-arms.

To be honest, once you get some good shocks on the front, you may forget all about the wider a-arms.

 

I figure that when I install the new 22x11x9 Maxxis Razr's, which will raise the rear 1 inch, the lower rear won't be as noticeable. In fact, I was going to put 23x7x10 Maxxis Razr's on the front, but may go with the smaller 22x7x10 or 21x7x10 to keep the rear from looking lower again...

Good luck,
Lorrin

 

Durablue has a front end lowering kit for $70. The headlights must be removed to use it. It lowers the Raptor 2". I emailed them yesterday and they sent an instruction sheet this morning.