I finally got around to adding a few more pics of the 500 today. Didn't have time to do many, but at least these are newer. The others didn't have the lift.

http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/bc/andy_...=/&.view=t

 

Nice new pictures Andy-though, haven't I seen that same reindeer somewhere before??? Hmmmmm.... Heh heh heh-surprised you haven't got rid of that thing yet, thought you were going to quite a while back if I remember right. Oh well, builds character, right! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

Hey, did I ask you before how much ground clearance you had now at the front diff, and at the floorboards? I'm guessing somewhere around 14" or so, is that close? Probably around 12" at the floorboards? Also, from the a couple of the pictures, it looks as if your muffler ends at the cap, that down spot has been cut off-did you remove it, or did it come that way from the factory? I thought I remembered the older style 'Cats having a spout that shot directly out the back a couple inches, then they turned it down 90* a year or two later? Maybe that's what Sxr6 was referring too, though I thought he had a newer model 'Cat that already had the downspout-guess I'll have to ask him.

Anyway, nice pictures!

Mike

 

No that stupid reindeer is in the garage taking up space. Thats just an old picture. I only did six of them today. The muffler was like that way from the factory. That was before they had the down spout. I wish I had it though, because it sounds like glass packs or something with the exhaust hitting the bumper back there. As far as clearance, I have 12 or 13 inches at the front skid and maybe 11 or 12 at the bottom of the frame. Probably 11.

 

Hey Andy i had a similar problem on my 300 with the exaust being cut off, except it was because my brother had run into me in the winter. All i did was get some 1" threaded plumbing copper pipe and cut off my crushed 90 leaving about a 1/4" sticking out to be able to weld the threaded pipe to. I brought it to a one of my dads freinds who welds as a proffesion, but when he tried to weld it with normal welding rod it melted the threads so then he used this special soder welding material(silphos with 15% silver...i think) , it was a very low temperature material, but it was a weldable soder. We welded it on and i got a union with a 90 in it and now i have a 90 and i can change the ends of it, i have a 45 also. A recomendation becouse the welding soder is so expensive is you should braze it, but remember use a soder that can stand up to the exaust temperatures. The really nice thing is if I wanted to i can snorkel it just as easy by making a new attachment for the union, and i can make all sorts of angles.

 

Another thing is that the pipe had to be bored out becouse it was a little to small and that it was about 1/4" longer than the union's width. so that it would be reasonable short and not hit the flap.