Well, after having to exchange the first set of circlip pliars for being too small, then breaking the second set (thank god for craftsman!), I finally got everything wrapped up and fixed-I think anyway. It all seems to be in place, where it should be, and matches the other side, so I pulled it off the trailer. Had a hell of a time keeping it on the ramps though-when I got to the pavement, with the handlebars strait, and the right tire facing forward, the left tire faces a couple inches outside to the left. I assume all I need to do is loosen the two nuts on each end of the tie-rod shaft, then adjust it accordingly. What is accordingly? As in, which way should it go-out towards the tire, or back in towards the steering stem? And, how much? I assume just a few turns of the threads will make quite a bit of difference at the tire, as it just can't go very far, but is there anything else I can be overlooking? Anything I should check instead? Dad decided he wants to go out riding saturday, so I have tomorrow to get the thing aligned properly and at least driving strait. Still need the new 4wd shifter lever, but I think I managed to beat this current one around enough that I can get four wheel drive if absolutely necessary. Anyway, just looking for the fastest/easiest way to fix this little wayward tire problem.

Thanks again guys, and also, Thanks for all the help with replacing the CV stuff, and the ball joints, it was a huge help!

Oh, and Andy-I saw in another post you were contemplating replacing the cv boot yourself or having the dealer do it. I assume it's the inner one-next to the diff.? It's actually pretty easy to do, just kind of messy. The complete boot kit costs around $20 or so, comes with the boot, both clamps, grease and a new circlip. The hardest part was getting the large circlip back inside the housing to prevent the cv joint from pulling back out-but, mine was bent a little already, and I broke my pliars while trying to get it out the first time, so I made it worse in the long run by not exchanging the pliars right away-instead trying to use needle nose. You'll need a set of those pliars if you don't have them already, it will make things a lot easier. The hardest part is not getting that grease all over everything! Just remember to put the clamps on the boot and over the axle before you slide it back in the housing-otherwise you'll be kicking yourself!

Anyway, if you decide to do it yourself and need some help, let me know-after pulling mine apart, and putting it back together 3-4 times now, I think I finally figured out how to do it right the first time! heh heh heh [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

Best of luck, and thanks again guys!

Mike

 

I had it taken down somewhat the other night, and I decided I don't have a clue in hell how to get the sumbitch apart. I couldn't figure out how the hub assembly comes apart from the a-arms. Decided I'll just wait and take it in and let that same old dude do it. I think I would end up spending enough in tools to cover the job. Hell, as if I don't run that risk now having 4 CV's to worry about.

 

Then again, I may need something to do when I get off work again. How exactly do you get that thing apart and what all tools do you need (to keep from using flat screwdrivers, needlenose pliers, and homemade tools that break more than they fix).

 

Cowboy,
Glad to hear you got the 'Cat back on its feet. As for your front end alignment, try wrapping a string around your wheels. Center your handle bars, then just adjust your front wheels till they sit flush on the string. Thats how I finally had to set the front end on my Griz after I locked it. Your supposed to toe it out some after locking it. After hours trying to set it by measuring from various points, then trying to eyeball it, I gave up. No matter what I did it would pull to one side, I'd make an adjustment, then it would pull the other way. When I finally got it to where it would steer straight, it was so pidgen toed, I had to start over again. Thats when I wrapped a string around the tires, and set it with a 1/4" toe out in one try! You'll see what I mean if you try it, it was real simple. Make sure you sit on the quad and re-cenetr your handle bars and check the string on both sides before you tighten everything up and call it quits. You will be able to see immediately if one side or the other is out of square to the string. Anyway, I hope that helps. Happy trails.

Rick

 

Hey Rick, what's up? I knew somebody mentioned something about using a string before, but couldn't for the life of me remember how or what they did to do it. Thanks for the tip. BUT, I'm already done. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] Spent about an hour and a half or so measuring EVERYTHING, making sure it all looked good. The first two attempts were on the right track, but due to my lack of knowledge in the subject, when I thought I had it all looking good, I looked up at the handlebars-guess what-they're all pointing in weird directions, so back to square one again. I got smart this time though, and used my tie-downs to "lock" the handlebars strait, off the rear rack. Now, back to adjusting and measuring. I've got it set at 28 1/4" up front, with 28" even in the rear, all measured at the skid plate level. After a few runs up and down the street, then letting go of the handlebars, it runs PERFECTLY strait down the middle, while dieing down to an idle. Steering response is very good, now you point it, and she goes. This leads me to believe it must have been fairly out-of-whack when brand new-if I EVER let go of the handlebars, it would sharply veer off to the left before-now it just goes strait. So, all in all, I think I finally fixed everything that was wrong. Just as a "precautionary measure", I'm going to run down and wash it thoroughly, then run it down to my dealer for a closer "professional" opinion, just to make sure I did everything right, and nothing else looks to be out of the ordinary. Again, like I said, just a "precautionary" measure-I'm fairly certain everything is back to perfect again, but as I'm no mechanic, I'd just like a second opinion, kind of for extra assurance I guess. Call me crazy, oh well.

Anyway, best of luck, and we'll find out this weekend how everything goes-heading up in the hills tomorrow morning, just hope nothing else goes wrong! heh heh heh. Take care,

Mike

 

Mike,
Damn, that was a smart idea using your tie-downs to center your handle bars! Why didn't I think of that? Plus you got it right in an hour and a half! It took me that long to figure out I needed to try something different.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] Oh well, glad to hear you got it right. I'm sure everything will work just fine for you this weekend. Enjoy the hell out of it! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] Later.

Rick

 

Andy-
After being up all day yesterday driving to get your Grizz, then working all night, I think maybe you ought to think about getting some sleep sometime! heh heh heh. What, are you telling me you'd rather replace a torn boot on your 'Cat, than ride your brand new Grizz???? Just joking! Anyway, I sent you a message thing with that feature here, let me know if it worked.

Best of luck,

Mike

 

I'd rather ride, but I need to do something towards getting that AC out of here. I'm not really wanting to pay on the griz for very long. Selling the AC will knock out a large part of that loan, and I could get it paid off by the end of the year probably.