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Raptor not the easiest bike to work on

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Old Jul 20, 2001 | 02:24 AM
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I dunno maybe its just me..but its a little crazy when you have to take half the bike apart just to get to the carbs, I am in the process of installing dynojet kit. I jave a white bros e series pipe with 12 disc, i also have a prodesign airfilter and 6 holes in my airlid with univents. Snorkle tabs trimmed. before i go into the carbs is there anything you guys would like to share cause i have heard stories...........

and how the hell are you suppose to get thos etiny allens screws lose?!?!?! geeezzzzz

My site with RAPTOR VIDEOS
 
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Old Jul 20, 2001 | 03:59 PM
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Joey, if you replace the needles or alter their factory position, watch those little washers above and below the needle clip when disassambling/assembling. I looked all evening once for a dropped one.

May want to spray a little lubricant inside the intake boots so the carbs will slide in easier.

If you are still using the factory intake boot spacers, don't overtighted them....it they are overtightened, they actually bind into the boot causing the boots to rip.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2001 | 04:11 PM
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DO NOT LUBRICATE THE BOOTS!! don't do it man. i was just going to reccomend making sure you tighten the clamps down good when i read the last post. The Carb boots are notorious for blowing off. especially after jetting and modding the air box. I have actually ran ty-wraps through the clamp and diectly to the carb. To ensure this does not happen again. Check your YZ tool kit. thats right. no minny allen key. That thing will leave you stranded.

I have heard of people grinding down the clamp spacer. to keep the boots from blowing..and wound up cutting the boot. Sorry Gary i just don't agree with ya on that one.
AK
 
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Old Jul 20, 2001 | 04:40 PM
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Raptor660rnh....Of course I meant not to go crazy with lubricant inside the boots....just a tad is needed (WD-40 works good and is dry quick), and it helps upon assembly.
I have felt the same way you do now about the intake boot popping off problem....research my posts and see. The problem is'nt with the boots, it's a lean idle circuit....simply adjust the idle circuit(s) while the machine is running to achieve highest rpm and the problem will be a memory. TRUST ME! A flexible screwdriver is all that is needed. Email me for a more descriptive reply. Later.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2001 | 05:20 PM
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I just pull out the starter, drop the carbs, re-jett (not the needles) and reinstall. easy.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2001 | 12:08 AM
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You know what else really works good is Carb cleaner. I'm an auto tech and that's what we use for fuel hoses intake boots etc. It lubricates good and when it drys it's not slippery. Later
 
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Old Jul 23, 2001 | 12:26 PM
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Gary

Ok what am i doing wrong? How do you disconnect the damn throttle cables and choke? The best i was able to do was to leave the cables connected and did was able to rotate the carbs. That is as far as i have gotten. I have not been able to change the jets..I have had lots of experience with 250rs and quadracers..but this dual carb set-up seems to be a nightmare compared to those bikes. Also how do you get the jets out? Is there a special tool or something? HELPPPPPPPPPPPPP! i took out the plug and it s white..Too lean

also what are they dynojet jets that guys are running for sea level, Pro designs air filter, white bros e-series pipe. The jet kit recomends using the 144 in the left and 146 in the right..Is this correct??

Thanks way in advance!!!!
 
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Old Jul 23, 2001 | 12:49 PM
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You think that's bad I had the carbs off my 900RR about 5X till I got it where I wanted and that's 4 carbs.
To get the jets out just use a flat head screwdriver. I didn't disconnect the cables either just flip the carbs upside down it's easier to do the main jets.
Seems right for the mains I might even go alittle bigger if they gave you bigger one's with the kit. I'm running 160 & 162 mains. With a FMF slip-on & 2 1/2 inch hole in the airbox. Mine runs good. But I would go with what dynojet says unless you do extensive airbox mods. Later
 
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Old Jul 23, 2001 | 12:52 PM
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Joeyd,
you can take the front plastic and tank off, disconnect the choke cable at the carb and the throttle at the handle bar (i find it easier to reconnect the trottle cable at the grip rather than at the carb)

remove the float bowls and remove jets. I would jet up to the second provided jet setting (not slip on exhaust...the next setting) and add discs to your e-series to fine tune. I had 16 discs with your setup and it was perfect.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2001 | 12:58 PM
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I normally take the front plastic off, gas tank, roll rubber carb cover back, loosen all 4 clamps, and flip the carbs over without taking any cables off.
 
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