mojave carb problem
#1
I hope someone can help me here. When I go over some whoops or a series of small jumps wide open throttle my mo floods out and gets in to a bogging fit and then it will clear itself out. My carb is clean and I re adjusted the float height and all of my vent tubes are clear. I don't know what else to do. It didn't do this when I first got it but now it does it quite often. If I can't fix it I might try a pc racing vent system. Those work pretty good. Thanks for the help.
#2
where did you get the 11.5:1 piston from? how does the white bros exhaust work? and how much top speed have you gained from those mods?
answer:
i think the engine is flooding out for some reason because the throttle is being pinned while the wheels are off the ground. i don't know why this is occuring though.
answer:
i think the engine is flooding out for some reason because the throttle is being pinned while the wheels are off the ground. i don't know why this is occuring though.
#3
I got the wiseco piston from dennis kirk. The white bros pipe is awesome. It sounds awesome and gave it a pretty good boost in low-mid range response. It is also constructed well so it won't fall apart. The high compression piston only usually helps out the low end response but with my 13 tooth sprocket I probally gained about 3mph or so.
#4
Did you have to rejet your carb ? How many discs do you run with your WB exhaust ? I just installed an E-series on my son's Mojave. We're having a problem, it bogs down when changing gears.If you goose it a little it'll take right off.Wide open runs great. We were running 12 discs.Then tried 8 it got alittle better.Any info would be helpfull.Thanks
#5
what are your mods.
Give me a little more info on the bog!
Yes rejetting is a graet idea, wether the instructions state so or not.
If the pipe is your only mod start with six disc but don't go below four.
When you get this far and it starts cleaning up a little, go under the carb and turn the air fuel mixture in all the way, but don't tighten it, then turn it out 2 1/2 turns.
I need to know were the bog is, and what mods.
But six disc, 2 1/2 turns out on the air/fuel mixture screw, and pull your plug and see what it looks like!
Give me a little more info on the bog!
Yes rejetting is a graet idea, wether the instructions state so or not.
If the pipe is your only mod start with six disc but don't go below four.
When you get this far and it starts cleaning up a little, go under the carb and turn the air fuel mixture in all the way, but don't tighten it, then turn it out 2 1/2 turns.
I need to know were the bog is, and what mods.
But six disc, 2 1/2 turns out on the air/fuel mixture screw, and pull your plug and see what it looks like!
#6
the mo comes with a #135 main, except for california.
If your not at sea level, every 1500 feet of elevation should or could require a main change.
Read your plug, try what I said previous and if that doesn't clean it up and leave you with a light brown plug, kawi offers a #130 and #128 optional main jets for the mo.
These should only cost a couple bucks a piece, and yes they offer a couple larger sizes.
Try to get a air filter in the future.
And the way the disc work, is four disc for stock, eight for pipe, filter, and jetting and twelve for race, or modified engines.
Eight disc work the best for most, but the more you put in the more the horse power the further up the rpm range the power is at, and it goes the other way for less disc.
If your not at sea level, every 1500 feet of elevation should or could require a main change.
Read your plug, try what I said previous and if that doesn't clean it up and leave you with a light brown plug, kawi offers a #130 and #128 optional main jets for the mo.
These should only cost a couple bucks a piece, and yes they offer a couple larger sizes.
Try to get a air filter in the future.
And the way the disc work, is four disc for stock, eight for pipe, filter, and jetting and twelve for race, or modified engines.
Eight disc work the best for most, but the more you put in the more the horse power the further up the rpm range the power is at, and it goes the other way for less disc.
#7
I'm running 12 discs in mine. The mo actually comes with a 132 main. I have a uni filter and I'm running a 130dyno jet with my clip on the 3rd notch. They said to put the stock shim plus the 2 they gave but I added one more for a total of 4 and my mixture screw is 23/4 out and she runs good. I tried the dynojet 134 but the plug went black in just a little ride.
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#8
The extra 1/4 turn and a extra shim changes a lot.
I would suggest removing the exstra shim from the needle and go down one main size, I believe you will nitice the differenc rite a way.
Jetting is very important, the horse power gain in the mid range is excellent.
Many believe that if you can get that one exstra jet size in you can get a little more, but this is so un true, it hurts worse than any thing.
Keep going down on the main untill you get a light brown to gray plug read and then move the needle up or down.
The movement of the needle will then show major differences in how the bike accelleretes!!!!!!!
I would suggest removing the exstra shim from the needle and go down one main size, I believe you will nitice the differenc rite a way.
Jetting is very important, the horse power gain in the mid range is excellent.
Many believe that if you can get that one exstra jet size in you can get a little more, but this is so un true, it hurts worse than any thing.
Keep going down on the main untill you get a light brown to gray plug read and then move the needle up or down.
The movement of the needle will then show major differences in how the bike accelleretes!!!!!!!
#9
Gaff
Thanks for responding.The only mod is the WB exhaust.Iam a novice at working on ATVs but have a basic knowledge of mechanics.When I said it "bogs down " I mean the engine seems like it is going to choke itself out.The engine idles fine .When shifting gears from 2nd to 3rd,3rd to 4th etc...Thats the problem.The exhaust sounds great untill you shift then you can hear it sputter then as you gain rpms it sounds like it should.If you lay off the gas for an instant then hit the gas again, your acceleration increases.Iam going to start with 6 discs and see what happens.The Mojave is not used for racing,organized that is.My son rides with all his buddies so it's more of who has what!!! If I need to rejet is this an easy task or should I take it to the local shop ? Thanks
---------------
Mojave 2001
WB E-Series exhaust
DG nerf Bars
Thanks for responding.The only mod is the WB exhaust.Iam a novice at working on ATVs but have a basic knowledge of mechanics.When I said it "bogs down " I mean the engine seems like it is going to choke itself out.The engine idles fine .When shifting gears from 2nd to 3rd,3rd to 4th etc...Thats the problem.The exhaust sounds great untill you shift then you can hear it sputter then as you gain rpms it sounds like it should.If you lay off the gas for an instant then hit the gas again, your acceleration increases.Iam going to start with 6 discs and see what happens.The Mojave is not used for racing,organized that is.My son rides with all his buddies so it's more of who has what!!! If I need to rejet is this an easy task or should I take it to the local shop ? Thanks
---------------
Mojave 2001
WB E-Series exhaust
DG nerf Bars
#10
Gaff do you mean I should go to a 128 main. Right now my plug seems to have a very light brown color to it and I think if I go to a 128 it will be quite light in color.If Do you think it would work better with the 128 main and my needle on #4 without shims and my screw back at 2.5 turns. Do you have any ideas on whats causing my bogging on the whoops and moguls??
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