has anyone outthere had trouble with there front hubs engaging while trying to spin a donut or just messing around in the snow.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img]

 

You might want to replace your garter spring. Just make sure to order both sides.

 

THANKS ELROY I THINK I WILL HAVE YOU ORDER ME SOME.

 

if your axle nuits r too tight that will cause it to do it also.
or if you have a bent axle or a electrical problem
my left side hub kicks in and i think its a bent axle im not sure tho

 

One of the main reasons for the front hubs to engage while in 2WD is the hub coil assembly out of adjustment. From the factory the clearance between the inner and outer ring is 0.0015" anything less will cause the hub to engage. I had this problem where the outer ring was set too far back giving me a -0.002" instead of +0.0015". As it was still under warranty I took it to the dealer for adjustment. In talking it over with the dealer he indicated to me that they set it to +0.002" to 0.004" to ensure the rollers disengage properly.
Hope this is of some help.

 

There is one very rare condition that can cause this also. Static electricity can be generated throughout the machine which will charge the hubstrut and the coils. Polaris has admitted to this being able to happen. It is very rare but can happen.

Another fairly rare reason is vibration being cause throughout the drive train. Very slight bend in the driveshaft (very similar to DustntheCompetition's), loose bearings, or even worn yokes can cause this.

Try the simple stuff like Elroy's and Traildog's advice first, more than likely it will be those problems than the ones I mentioned.

 

On newer atvs the hubs will not engage above like 3000 rpms. This is a safety feature so you do not blow out your hubs when spinning on the ice.

 

Charlie makes a good point, maybe the limiter is bad.

However if any type of static charge is created thoughout the bike the limiter has no way of stopping the coils being charged. It could be several things. Either buy the service manual and go through the steps in testing or load it up and take it to a dealer.

 

Be sure to check hub oil level and condition. If you haven't changed the oil in the last year, it is time to do it. I have solved more hub problems for people in my short life by a simple 'drain, fill, drive around 10 minutes, drain again, & fill again' routine than I have by taking them apart. It seems that if the hub oil gets low, or old enough to lose some of it's 'slickness' the hubs can grab whenever they want to. I would definately check the oil first.
I know one guy who had problems with his hubs not working right. The one he was working on when I got there, he had all apart. The other was sticking occasionally, also. I just changed the oil in it. To make a long story short, he had the one hub apart 4 or 5 times already, and the other one still is working fine. I think he bent that little flat washer with the 3 tabs on it when he put it back together, but he claims he didn't. We are still working on exactly why it won't work. He now has a 3 wheel drive (actually 1 wheel drive as he broke his rear chain, but that is a different story). On the bright side, he cured the problem of the hub kicking in when it shouldn't. It now won't kick in at all.

 

In the interest of being fair if you get spinning fast enough (on say ice[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]). Wouldn't inertia itself cause the hubs to engage, I mean when spun quick the G force is much greater at the hubs than in the seat, perhaps even reaching several Gs.