I need help FAST with front brakes!!!
#1
I have changed my brake lines to steel braided and now I am having problems bleeding the front brakes. I have taken it to two different shops and they couldn't do it either. Any suggestions? It would be appreciated.
#3
Bleeding the front brakes should be an easy task, here's the small list:
1. Yep, you should be able to use standard auto brake fluid DOT 3 I think (the same principle, only smaller)
2. Get a small soda bottle (like one from a vending machine) clean it out and put about 2" of brake fluid in it (I know this sounds odd, but hang with me)
3. Get a small (1/4" or so clear should do it) plastic tube that will go from the bleed valve on the brake cylinder (at the wheel) to the bottle mentioned above. Make sure that the end of the tube in the soda bottle is submerged in the brake fluid. This will prevent air or other contaminants from re-entering the brake system.
4. Lossen the bleed valve (this is the "grease-zirk" looking thing that has a rubber boot over it (hopefully, you've already found it in step 3.
5. CLEAN YOUR BRAKE RESIVOIR...and then remove the screws and the top of the resivoir.
6. A little at a time, pour brake fluid into the resivoir and activate the brake lever....this will force the fluid down the brake lines, into the slave cylinder on the brake and eventually out the bleed valve and into the bottle.
7. When you've got all the air bubbles out of the system and before taking off the bleed tube, re-tighten the bleed valve to seal the system.
8. Repeat steps 3,4,6 and 7 with the other front brake.
9. Once both sides have been purged of air, top off the resivoir and replace the top...double check that the bleed valves are seated and put the protective boot back on and you should be okay.
There, that wasn't too hard (I think)....I know that it sounds like a lot, but aside from the clear plastic tubing and the brake fluid, it should be quite simple. Good Luck.
1. Yep, you should be able to use standard auto brake fluid DOT 3 I think (the same principle, only smaller)
2. Get a small soda bottle (like one from a vending machine) clean it out and put about 2" of brake fluid in it (I know this sounds odd, but hang with me)
3. Get a small (1/4" or so clear should do it) plastic tube that will go from the bleed valve on the brake cylinder (at the wheel) to the bottle mentioned above. Make sure that the end of the tube in the soda bottle is submerged in the brake fluid. This will prevent air or other contaminants from re-entering the brake system.
4. Lossen the bleed valve (this is the "grease-zirk" looking thing that has a rubber boot over it (hopefully, you've already found it in step 3.
5. CLEAN YOUR BRAKE RESIVOIR...and then remove the screws and the top of the resivoir.
6. A little at a time, pour brake fluid into the resivoir and activate the brake lever....this will force the fluid down the brake lines, into the slave cylinder on the brake and eventually out the bleed valve and into the bottle.
7. When you've got all the air bubbles out of the system and before taking off the bleed tube, re-tighten the bleed valve to seal the system.
8. Repeat steps 3,4,6 and 7 with the other front brake.
9. Once both sides have been purged of air, top off the resivoir and replace the top...double check that the bleed valves are seated and put the protective boot back on and you should be okay.
There, that wasn't too hard (I think)....I know that it sounds like a lot, but aside from the clear plastic tubing and the brake fluid, it should be quite simple. Good Luck.
#4
I think the book calls for Dot 4 not Dot 3 brakefluid.As for your bleeding problem. I think the bleeder on the calliper has to be at the highest piont or you will have a air bubble cought in the top of the calliper.I switched callipers to the wrong side once and it switched the bleeder screw to the bottom and no one could get them bled until I noticed the mistake. Just a thought. Good luck
#5
Did you get new copper washers with your new brakelines? If not you should get new ones, but if you're pressed for time or can't find any that fit you can aneal (sp?) them to give them new life.
What this involves is removing them and cleaning them VERY WELL with SOAP and WATER, nothing flammable. Take a pair of pliers, needle nose work great and hold them over a flame, propane torches work the best, but your stove will do, the old zippo's not good enough I'm afraid.
Heat the copper until it glows nice and red. When it's glowing nicely, immediately dip it in water. This renews the elasticity in the copper and allows the banjo fitting to crush the copper washer (it's a gasket) and make a new, fresh seal.
Try this, if it doesn't work buy new ones and have a competent shop install them.
What this involves is removing them and cleaning them VERY WELL with SOAP and WATER, nothing flammable. Take a pair of pliers, needle nose work great and hold them over a flame, propane torches work the best, but your stove will do, the old zippo's not good enough I'm afraid.
Heat the copper until it glows nice and red. When it's glowing nicely, immediately dip it in water. This renews the elasticity in the copper and allows the banjo fitting to crush the copper washer (it's a gasket) and make a new, fresh seal.
Try this, if it doesn't work buy new ones and have a competent shop install them.
#6
I saw this trick at one of out National races. Instead of trying to pump the brake fluid from the reservoir, fill a big syringe with brake fluid and fit a short rubber pipe to syringe. Fit the other end to the bleed zirk. After loosening the zirk, push the brake fluid up to the reservoir with the syringe. Works perfectly without the need to pump the brake lever like crazy.
#7
I now have brakes, thanks to DDrecDS, you are right about the bleeder they need to be at it's highest point. THANKS for all your help.
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#8
Should I tell on you or what. Some times a picture is worth a thousand laughs sure wish I had one of that wheller brake system. You problem can be easily solved with a call to the master of the DS, You have the # use it.


