What oil are you guys running in your transimission on your 250R's?
My manual says to use 10W40, and some people on here say Honda HP transmission oil. My local dealer didn't have any of the Honda stuff, but they had Bel-Ray gear saver 80w90, should I run that?

 

i would not run bel ray gear saver.it's a 80 or 90 wieght oil.i've tried it before and it works like $hit,there is a reason the manufacturers recommend 10w 40. i works good.
there are a lot of engine builders that would recommend 10w 40 and this is what i use and you would be surprised at how many pro's use this too.
castrol GTX 10w40 works great in the tranny,no clutch slippage excellent shifting and wear protection.
good luck
oh and just in case i do use bel-ray hr-1 premix oil.it's the best i've ever used.

 

Well, I always thought that "gear oil" was not supposed to be used, and always ran 10w40 but the most recent I bought was Castrol Syntec or something along those lines, and I had to pry apart my clutch plates because it made the plates stick together. What do the SA, SE, SL ratings mean? Oh, I ran the Bel-Ray Pre-Mix oil in my CR also, but I recently switched to Golden Spectro with my ATC. I kept fouling plugs with the Bel-Ray for some reason, and I've been on the same plug since October witht he GS.

 

do not run synthetic oil in your trans.it will destroy clutch setups.
and if you fool plugs it wouldn't matter what type of oil you use.oil has nothing to do with fouling plugs.jetting is what fouls plugs.

 

Actually, if the oil was mixed too rich it would cause plug fouling, which I guess is more related to jetting than the brand of oil. I'll stick with the Golden Spectro though!

 

Although this topic has been dicussed in depth last week in the Honda forum, I will add my 2-cents here also.

I personally run Castrol GTX fully synthetic, and have never had the problem you are talking about. How often did you change the oil?

About the ONLY problem that I know of with using a synthetic in a 2-stroke tranny, is that sometimes it can cause clutch slippage, but this is usually because your clutch plates were PREVIOUSLY GLAZED. Often times, using a synthetic will tell you what is going on with your clutch set-up.

If your clutch has been properly maintained, and is not worn out, there should be no problem with using a synthetic.

As for Pre-mix oil fouling plugs, yes, it is possible for the oil to cause easier fouling if it is a cheaper oil. The cheaper oils don't burn as clean as the newer ones. I especially like the synthetics!

Golden Spectro should serve you well. I used to run it @ 42:1 in my 330R at the dunes. LOTS of protection!

I currently use Amsoil 2000 fully synthetic @ 50:1 and have had great success with it.
I also went for 2 seasons using the same plug with the G.S.

If you are jetted correctly, this should take care of most fouling problems.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Just to let some of you know, 10w-40 oil is the worst oil ever made(in dino based form synthetics are a different story)Factually, In 1984 GM released a service bulletin that states that they will void the warranty of anyone using 10w40. this is just 10/30 with Vips additives which are just polymers.


I use sae 30 wt in my tranny and I change it frequently, make sure there is no moly in the oil you buy(moly is in dino based oils like 10w-40 sinc emoly is an additive), that causes clutch slippage.

Also, if you mix your gas with more oil than usual (say you accidnetally poured the whole bottle of oil in when you only needed 3/4)
your bike will run LEANER. the less oil you run the richer it will run.

 

Ok I ran Castrol Syntec Blend part synthetic motor oil with API service SL. This was the first time I changed the oil in about a month(I know, I should change it more often) and when I tried moving the ATC around the shop in first gear with the clutch lever pulled in, the clutch wouldn't disengage. When I pulled the cover off and the plates out of the basket, the plates were stuck together. They are still in good conditon, so it's got to be the oil, especially incec I never had that problem before suing this oil.

 

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if you mix your gas with more oil than usual (say you accidnetally poured the whole bottle of oil in when you only needed 3/4)
your bike will run LEANER. the less oil you run the richer it will run. >>



Right Beerock69, but you can still OIL foul a plug if too much oil is used.

 

once again i will tell you people that it doesn't matter the amount of oil you mix into the fuel.the amount of oil in your fuel does not have anything to do with they way your motor runs lean or ich.
sure you can mix your oil rich but but that has nothing to do with your motor running rich.
that seams to be a big problem with inexperianced tuners,they seem to think that they are running rich so they use less oil.well thats not good.and if your running lean it doesn't mean you add more oil.
only the jets in your carb can determine a rich or lean running condition.
of course there are other small variations that can add to this like having your air filter over oiled which can cause a motor to run rich.small air leaks or a loose carb or bad gasket or seal can cause leaning out.but if everything is at it should be you should be able to run anywhere from 28:1 to 50:1 fual and oil misture with spot on jetting and get the same result.actually it has been proven that a rich oil mixture will make more horsepower then less oil in the mixture.so i always run 28 or 32:1 mix.