If you have a carb you need to read this!
Aug 28, 2002 | 11:33 AM
#1
Thread Starter
|
Range Rover
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
I was on another forum and read this, thought it could be helpfull. Please leave your thoughts/comments.
Got this off the internet and I thought I'd share it with you.
OK folks, here it is.... Serious Flame Bait
I've been watching the rejetting/muffler/air filter discussions with some
amusement. What I find most amusing is the idea that changing the muffler
means you must rejet the carbs. Think about it friends, if you put on a
muffler which flows more air, the carburetor will flow more gas. That's why
it's there. No muffler, or lack thereof, will make a bigger change in air
flow than twisting the throttle, and the carbs deal with that pretty well.
If you throw away the mufflers completely, the carbs won't even know it.
The story on air filters is different because any restriction in the air
flow upstream of the carbs acts as a choke. (Aside: most bikes don't have
true chokes, they have enrichers which work differently). Removing the
restriction will lean out the mixture. However, the restriction imposed by
modern stock air filters is vanishingly small. Even totally removing them
makes only a tiny change in the mixture.
So why do people want to rejet their carbs? Because the carbs are jetted
lean in the idle and midrange to make the engines run clean (fight smog). At
full throttle, where most bikes don't spend a lot of time, they are jetted a
bit rich so they will run cooler.
If you are not concerned about smog at idle or seizing your engine at WFO,
then you can find some more throttle response and a bit more power by
screwing around with your carbs.
But before you send $$$$ off to some aftermarket company, let's analyze what
you want to accomplish. I'll assume that your not aiming for the absolute
maximum, ragged edge, do a plug reading every 10 degrees of temp change,
rejet every 300 foot elevation change, kind of dragstrip setup. You want
something flexible and reliable, like the factory engineers set up for your
WFO main jet. If you have replaced your air cleaner, your slightly fat top
end might have leaned out a bit, giving you a little more power, but also
narrowing your safety margin. You might find the bike pinging some when WFO
on a hot day above 10,000 ft.
Basically, the factory engineers did a great job on your main jet, leave it
alone.
However, at the opposite end of the throttle slide things are not so pretty.
At idle, you probably run lean. That's why it takes so long to warm up. But
you don't need a jet to fix that, you have pilot screws to adjust the idle
mixture. Just back them out a 1/2 a turn or so. What's a little smog between
friends? If you really want to get the idle right, hook up your carb
synchronizing sticks and twist the pilot screw until you get maximum
vacuumn. That's maximum power, at least with those pilot jets.
Now, it is possible that you won't be able to get the ideal idle with the
stock pilot jets. But how would you know? I've never heard of anybody doing
plug readings at idle. And how much power do you need at idle anyway? Adjust
the pilot screws and leave it alone.
We've got the top and bottom set up without new jets, that only leaves
everything else, what's called partial throttle. Guess what, partial
throttle isn't controlled by jets, it's controlled by a tapered needle. The
higher the needle is set, the richer the mixure.
Once again, like the idle settings, most bikes are set up lean. You can
realize some real gains by fattening up the partial throttle. And partial
throttle is where most street riders spend most of their lives, so gains
here pay big dividends. If you replaced your air cleaner with a less
restrictive one and got some power increases at the top end, you may have
some power losses here in the middle since the bike runs even leaner than
(already lean) stock.
To fatten up the mid-range, you raise the needle. The bikes sold in Europe
often have needles with several notches in them so you easily adjust the
level. In America, they only have one notch, the factory setting.
But don't despair. You only want to raise the needle, not lower it. You can
raise the needle by shimming it up. Go buy some brass washers at the
hardware store. Put in a washer and test ride. If you still have a flat
spot, put in another.
So there you have it, Dr. Vega's do-it-yourself 1/2 dollar "re-jet" hop up.
Now for the disclaimers: don't try this if you don't know what you're doing.
Don't try a commercial kit either. You won't break anything, but it's pretty
easy to make your bike run worse instead of better.
My best advice is leave the bike alone. Sure you want a little more power,
but that's just because you're used to what you've got. Change your air
filter and re-jet your carbs and 6 months later you'll want more power. Put
on a new exhaust and 6 months later you'll want more power. Replace your
cams and 6 months later you'll want more power. Bore and stroke it and 6
months later you'll want more power. Supercharge it and 6 months later
you'll want more power. Buy a ZX-11 and 6 months later you'll want more
power. It only means you'll be going faster when you finally crash.
Got this off the internet and I thought I'd share it with you.
OK folks, here it is.... Serious Flame Bait
I've been watching the rejetting/muffler/air filter discussions with some
amusement. What I find most amusing is the idea that changing the muffler
means you must rejet the carbs. Think about it friends, if you put on a
muffler which flows more air, the carburetor will flow more gas. That's why
it's there. No muffler, or lack thereof, will make a bigger change in air
flow than twisting the throttle, and the carbs deal with that pretty well.
If you throw away the mufflers completely, the carbs won't even know it.
The story on air filters is different because any restriction in the air
flow upstream of the carbs acts as a choke. (Aside: most bikes don't have
true chokes, they have enrichers which work differently). Removing the
restriction will lean out the mixture. However, the restriction imposed by
modern stock air filters is vanishingly small. Even totally removing them
makes only a tiny change in the mixture.
So why do people want to rejet their carbs? Because the carbs are jetted
lean in the idle and midrange to make the engines run clean (fight smog). At
full throttle, where most bikes don't spend a lot of time, they are jetted a
bit rich so they will run cooler.
If you are not concerned about smog at idle or seizing your engine at WFO,
then you can find some more throttle response and a bit more power by
screwing around with your carbs.
But before you send $$$$ off to some aftermarket company, let's analyze what
you want to accomplish. I'll assume that your not aiming for the absolute
maximum, ragged edge, do a plug reading every 10 degrees of temp change,
rejet every 300 foot elevation change, kind of dragstrip setup. You want
something flexible and reliable, like the factory engineers set up for your
WFO main jet. If you have replaced your air cleaner, your slightly fat top
end might have leaned out a bit, giving you a little more power, but also
narrowing your safety margin. You might find the bike pinging some when WFO
on a hot day above 10,000 ft.
Basically, the factory engineers did a great job on your main jet, leave it
alone.
However, at the opposite end of the throttle slide things are not so pretty.
At idle, you probably run lean. That's why it takes so long to warm up. But
you don't need a jet to fix that, you have pilot screws to adjust the idle
mixture. Just back them out a 1/2 a turn or so. What's a little smog between
friends? If you really want to get the idle right, hook up your carb
synchronizing sticks and twist the pilot screw until you get maximum
vacuumn. That's maximum power, at least with those pilot jets.
Now, it is possible that you won't be able to get the ideal idle with the
stock pilot jets. But how would you know? I've never heard of anybody doing
plug readings at idle. And how much power do you need at idle anyway? Adjust
the pilot screws and leave it alone.
We've got the top and bottom set up without new jets, that only leaves
everything else, what's called partial throttle. Guess what, partial
throttle isn't controlled by jets, it's controlled by a tapered needle. The
higher the needle is set, the richer the mixure.
Once again, like the idle settings, most bikes are set up lean. You can
realize some real gains by fattening up the partial throttle. And partial
throttle is where most street riders spend most of their lives, so gains
here pay big dividends. If you replaced your air cleaner with a less
restrictive one and got some power increases at the top end, you may have
some power losses here in the middle since the bike runs even leaner than
(already lean) stock.
To fatten up the mid-range, you raise the needle. The bikes sold in Europe
often have needles with several notches in them so you easily adjust the
level. In America, they only have one notch, the factory setting.
But don't despair. You only want to raise the needle, not lower it. You can
raise the needle by shimming it up. Go buy some brass washers at the
hardware store. Put in a washer and test ride. If you still have a flat
spot, put in another.
So there you have it, Dr. Vega's do-it-yourself 1/2 dollar "re-jet" hop up.
Now for the disclaimers: don't try this if you don't know what you're doing.
Don't try a commercial kit either. You won't break anything, but it's pretty
easy to make your bike run worse instead of better.
My best advice is leave the bike alone. Sure you want a little more power,
but that's just because you're used to what you've got. Change your air
filter and re-jet your carbs and 6 months later you'll want more power. Put
on a new exhaust and 6 months later you'll want more power. Replace your
cams and 6 months later you'll want more power. Bore and stroke it and 6
months later you'll want more power. Supercharge it and 6 months later
you'll want more power. Buy a ZX-11 and 6 months later you'll want more
power. It only means you'll be going faster when you finally crash.
Aug 29, 2002 | 12:28 PM
#2
Pro Rider
Your friend needs to stop smoking whatever it is that is rotting his brain!
Your friend needs to stop smoking whatever it is that is rotting his brain!
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 3,143
Likes: 1
From: Saginaw, MN
Gee, I must have the European Wolverine,I have 5 notches on my needle,what a lucky,lucky little man I am !!!!!!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] and when my motor burns up from running a bone white plug,I can just blame it on the air,since my pipe and silencer can't possibly affect my jetting. LMAO, not sure who wrote that article,sounds good on paper,but with all the variables out there,not very practical advice.
Aug 29, 2002 | 12:38 PM
#4
Pro Rider
Your friend needs to stop smoking whatever it is that is rotting his brain!
Your friend needs to stop smoking whatever it is that is rotting his brain!
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 3,143
Likes: 1
From: Saginaw, MN
I'm just saying,not all will follow this rule,Honda,for instance,runs a very small pipe on the 250x,300ex,Recon,etc., a pipe change there makes a MAJOR difference,and will need a jet change to keep the motor happy. My Yamaha has a very large factory pipe,so I'm sure it wouldn't make much of a difference. Not starting a fight,just saying there are always exceptions to the rule, like my European Wolverine !!!!
Aug 29, 2002 | 12:40 PM
#5
Pro Rider
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,618
Likes: 0
if you put a pipe on it, you SHOULD re jet, but it's not needed. i've had experience with a k&N jet kit in a street bike and it pulls a lot harder! and when we get the filter it should work that much better.
i'm not one to frig around with my carb, i'm a little green in that area, so i leave it to my mechanic!
i'm not one to frig around with my carb, i'm a little green in that area, so i leave it to my mechanic!
Aug 29, 2002 | 02:11 PM
#6
Pro Rider
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
my comments...
<<Got this off the internet and I thought I'd share it with you.
OK folks, here it is.... Serious Flame Bait>> yep flame bait...4sure..
<<I've been watching the rejetting/muffler/air filter discussions with some
amusement. What I find most amusing is the idea that changing the muffler
means you must rejet the carbs. Think about it friends, if you put on a
muffler which flows more air, the carburetor will flow more gas. That's why
it's there. No muffler, or lack thereof, will make a bigger change in air
flow than twisting the throttle, and the carbs deal with that pretty well.
If you throw away the mufflers completely, the carbs won't even know it.>>
well I gotta disagree..just how many blued cobra pipes have you seen on street bikes? cruisers mainly..
the carbs will not flow more gas..the jets dictate how much fuel gets pulled in..it will run lean, since
more air gets pulled out the pipe..no muffler really?..geez, you need to have a certain amount of backpressure to help pull out the exhaust pulses, or cold air will get sucked back in the pipe & backfire...not to the extent of the intake mods..but most pipes require a rejet, or the no blue warranty will be void...
<<The story on air filters is different because any restriction in the air
flow upstream of the carbs acts as a choke. (Aside: most bikes don't have
true chokes, they have enrichers which work differently). Removing the
restriction will lean out the mixture. However, the restriction imposed by
modern stock air filters is vanishingly small. Even totally removing them
makes only a tiny change in the mixture.>>
gotta disagree... is this guy trying to tell me that a paper pleated oem filter on a yammy 650 street bike flows as well as a thunder air kit or a K&N filter..for the sake of boredom..go to www.baronscustom.com, & check out the big air kits..or investigate a hypercharger..
<<So why do people want to rejet their carbs? Because the carbs are jetted
lean in the idle and midrange to make the engines run clean (fight smog). At
full throttle, where most bikes don't spend a lot of time, they are jetted a
bit rich so they will run cooler.>>
gotta disagree here...most street bikes (cruisers) are jetted lean, to fight the smog..& help out with overall emissions from the manufacturers total lineup, bikes, atv's, outboards, sno sleds, you get the idea..
the pilot circuit in a carb controls 0-1/4 throttle, the needle controls 1/8 to 7/8 throttle then the main transitions in...from 3/4 to full
or else Mikuni pocket tuner is wrong...the mains control how much fuel gets metered from 3/4 to full throttle through the needle position..if the bikes were rich on the mains or at cruising speed, with open exhaust & open air filters, the pipes would be blue..running lean..(at 3/4 throtthe you are running entireely on the mains, less than that you are running on a metered percentage of the main..why does dynojet change the needles..this is why..for transition response..they look a lot diffrent than stock needles..
<<If you are not concerned about smog at idle or seizing your engine at WFO,
then you can find some more throttle response and a bit more power by
screwing around with your carbs.
But before you send $$$$ off to some aftermarket company, let's analyze what
you want to accomplish. I'll assume that your not aiming for the absolute
maximum, ragged edge, do a plug reading every 10 degrees of temp change,
rejet every 300 foot elevation change, kind of dragstrip setup. You want
something flexible and reliable, like the factory engineers set up for your
WFO main jet. If you have replaced your air cleaner, your slightly fat top
end might have leaned out a bit, giving you a little more power, but also
narrowing your safety margin. You might find the bike pinging some when WFO
on a hot day above 10,000 ft.>>
ah contrair perfessor..a couple of flaws in this theory..
30 degree change in temp is a jet size, or 2000' elevation..
<<Basically, the factory engineers did a great job on your main jet, leave it
alone.>>
depends on what you do to the intake & filter, & exhaust..
650 yammy in question had k&n filter, 2 1" holes in back of filter box, & port opened up to outside air, rear baffles removed from pipes..stock mains were 95, new mains were 120..go figure..
<<However, at the opposite end of the throttle slide things are not so pretty.
At idle, you probably run lean. That's why it takes so long to warm up. But
you don't need a jet to fix that, you have pilot screws to adjust the idle
mixture. Just back them out a 1/2 a turn or so. What's a little smog between
friends? If you really want to get the idle right, hook up your carb
synchronizing sticks and twist the pilot screw until you get maximum
vacuumn. That's maximum power, at least with those pilot jets.>>
finally a bit of wisdom..on street bikes the carbs have the mix screws plugged with brass plugs..anytime you work on carbs on a dual setup, synch them is a MUST...
<<Now, it is possible that you won't be able to get the ideal idle with the
stock pilot jets. But how would you know? I've never heard of anybody doing
plug readings at idle. And how much power do you need at idle anyway? Adjust
the pilot screws and leave it alone.>>
I have changed my pilots out in the 650..it helped in the transition area..besides the screws have affect to 5 turns out..
<<We've got the top and bottom set up without new jets, that only leaves
everything else, what's called partial throttle. Guess what, partial
throttle isn't controlled by jets, it's controlled by a tapered needle. The
higher the needle is set, the richer the mixure.
Once again, like the idle settings, most bikes are set up lean. You can
realize some real gains by fattening up the partial throttle. And partial
throttle is where most street riders spend most of their lives, so gains
here pay big dividends. If you replaced your air cleaner with a less
restrictive one and got some power increases at the top end, you may have
some power losses here in the middle since the bike runs even leaner than
(already lean) stock.
To fatten up the mid-range, you raise the needle. The bikes sold in Europe
often have needles with several notches in them so you easily adjust the
level. In America, they only have one notch, the factory setting.
But don't despair. You only want to raise the needle, not lower it. You can
raise the needle by shimming it up. Go buy some brass washers at the
hardware store. Put in a washer and test ride. If you still have a flat
spot, put in another.>>
this is true..but rember he is talking about street bikes, a #4 washer or .020 shim, (suzuki has shims that are true thickness, otherwise mic the washers to make sure they are the same..is about 1/2 a needle clip position, on stock needles they can be shimmed .060..(once again from my 650 yammy)
<<So there you have it, Dr. Vega's do-it-yourself 1/2 dollar "re-jet" hop up.
Now for the disclaimers: don't try this if you don't know what you're doing.
Don't try a commercial kit either. You won't break anything, but it's pretty
easy to make your bike run worse instead of better.>>
I'm hip these instructions are pretty lame..but to tell you what the 650 turned out being was 7 hp more, 7 lbs of torque more, or about 20 % improvement...so take it for what it's worth..
<<My best advice is leave the bike alone. Sure you want a little more power,
but that's just because you're used to what you've got. Change your air
filter and re-jet your carbs and 6 months later you'll want more power. Put
on a new exhaust and 6 months later you'll want more power. Replace your
cams and 6 months later you'll want more power. Bore and stroke it and 6
months later you'll want more power. Supercharge it and 6 months later
you'll want more power. Buy a ZX-11 and 6 months later you'll want more
power. It only means you'll be going faster when you finally crash.>>
dude,(Dr. Vega) get a clue...
to see where I get my info from go to www.star_riders.org, check out the starchives..
<<Got this off the internet and I thought I'd share it with you.
OK folks, here it is.... Serious Flame Bait>> yep flame bait...4sure..
<<I've been watching the rejetting/muffler/air filter discussions with some
amusement. What I find most amusing is the idea that changing the muffler
means you must rejet the carbs. Think about it friends, if you put on a
muffler which flows more air, the carburetor will flow more gas. That's why
it's there. No muffler, or lack thereof, will make a bigger change in air
flow than twisting the throttle, and the carbs deal with that pretty well.
If you throw away the mufflers completely, the carbs won't even know it.>>
well I gotta disagree..just how many blued cobra pipes have you seen on street bikes? cruisers mainly..
the carbs will not flow more gas..the jets dictate how much fuel gets pulled in..it will run lean, since
more air gets pulled out the pipe..no muffler really?..geez, you need to have a certain amount of backpressure to help pull out the exhaust pulses, or cold air will get sucked back in the pipe & backfire...not to the extent of the intake mods..but most pipes require a rejet, or the no blue warranty will be void...
<<The story on air filters is different because any restriction in the air
flow upstream of the carbs acts as a choke. (Aside: most bikes don't have
true chokes, they have enrichers which work differently). Removing the
restriction will lean out the mixture. However, the restriction imposed by
modern stock air filters is vanishingly small. Even totally removing them
makes only a tiny change in the mixture.>>
gotta disagree... is this guy trying to tell me that a paper pleated oem filter on a yammy 650 street bike flows as well as a thunder air kit or a K&N filter..for the sake of boredom..go to www.baronscustom.com, & check out the big air kits..or investigate a hypercharger..
<<So why do people want to rejet their carbs? Because the carbs are jetted
lean in the idle and midrange to make the engines run clean (fight smog). At
full throttle, where most bikes don't spend a lot of time, they are jetted a
bit rich so they will run cooler.>>
gotta disagree here...most street bikes (cruisers) are jetted lean, to fight the smog..& help out with overall emissions from the manufacturers total lineup, bikes, atv's, outboards, sno sleds, you get the idea..
the pilot circuit in a carb controls 0-1/4 throttle, the needle controls 1/8 to 7/8 throttle then the main transitions in...from 3/4 to full
or else Mikuni pocket tuner is wrong...the mains control how much fuel gets metered from 3/4 to full throttle through the needle position..if the bikes were rich on the mains or at cruising speed, with open exhaust & open air filters, the pipes would be blue..running lean..(at 3/4 throtthe you are running entireely on the mains, less than that you are running on a metered percentage of the main..why does dynojet change the needles..this is why..for transition response..they look a lot diffrent than stock needles..
<<If you are not concerned about smog at idle or seizing your engine at WFO,
then you can find some more throttle response and a bit more power by
screwing around with your carbs.
But before you send $$$$ off to some aftermarket company, let's analyze what
you want to accomplish. I'll assume that your not aiming for the absolute
maximum, ragged edge, do a plug reading every 10 degrees of temp change,
rejet every 300 foot elevation change, kind of dragstrip setup. You want
something flexible and reliable, like the factory engineers set up for your
WFO main jet. If you have replaced your air cleaner, your slightly fat top
end might have leaned out a bit, giving you a little more power, but also
narrowing your safety margin. You might find the bike pinging some when WFO
on a hot day above 10,000 ft.>>
ah contrair perfessor..a couple of flaws in this theory..
30 degree change in temp is a jet size, or 2000' elevation..
<<Basically, the factory engineers did a great job on your main jet, leave it
alone.>>
depends on what you do to the intake & filter, & exhaust..
650 yammy in question had k&n filter, 2 1" holes in back of filter box, & port opened up to outside air, rear baffles removed from pipes..stock mains were 95, new mains were 120..go figure..
<<However, at the opposite end of the throttle slide things are not so pretty.
At idle, you probably run lean. That's why it takes so long to warm up. But
you don't need a jet to fix that, you have pilot screws to adjust the idle
mixture. Just back them out a 1/2 a turn or so. What's a little smog between
friends? If you really want to get the idle right, hook up your carb
synchronizing sticks and twist the pilot screw until you get maximum
vacuumn. That's maximum power, at least with those pilot jets.>>
finally a bit of wisdom..on street bikes the carbs have the mix screws plugged with brass plugs..anytime you work on carbs on a dual setup, synch them is a MUST...
<<Now, it is possible that you won't be able to get the ideal idle with the
stock pilot jets. But how would you know? I've never heard of anybody doing
plug readings at idle. And how much power do you need at idle anyway? Adjust
the pilot screws and leave it alone.>>
I have changed my pilots out in the 650..it helped in the transition area..besides the screws have affect to 5 turns out..
<<We've got the top and bottom set up without new jets, that only leaves
everything else, what's called partial throttle. Guess what, partial
throttle isn't controlled by jets, it's controlled by a tapered needle. The
higher the needle is set, the richer the mixure.
Once again, like the idle settings, most bikes are set up lean. You can
realize some real gains by fattening up the partial throttle. And partial
throttle is where most street riders spend most of their lives, so gains
here pay big dividends. If you replaced your air cleaner with a less
restrictive one and got some power increases at the top end, you may have
some power losses here in the middle since the bike runs even leaner than
(already lean) stock.
To fatten up the mid-range, you raise the needle. The bikes sold in Europe
often have needles with several notches in them so you easily adjust the
level. In America, they only have one notch, the factory setting.
But don't despair. You only want to raise the needle, not lower it. You can
raise the needle by shimming it up. Go buy some brass washers at the
hardware store. Put in a washer and test ride. If you still have a flat
spot, put in another.>>
this is true..but rember he is talking about street bikes, a #4 washer or .020 shim, (suzuki has shims that are true thickness, otherwise mic the washers to make sure they are the same..is about 1/2 a needle clip position, on stock needles they can be shimmed .060..(once again from my 650 yammy)
<<So there you have it, Dr. Vega's do-it-yourself 1/2 dollar "re-jet" hop up.
Now for the disclaimers: don't try this if you don't know what you're doing.
Don't try a commercial kit either. You won't break anything, but it's pretty
easy to make your bike run worse instead of better.>>
I'm hip these instructions are pretty lame..but to tell you what the 650 turned out being was 7 hp more, 7 lbs of torque more, or about 20 % improvement...so take it for what it's worth..
<<My best advice is leave the bike alone. Sure you want a little more power,
but that's just because you're used to what you've got. Change your air
filter and re-jet your carbs and 6 months later you'll want more power. Put
on a new exhaust and 6 months later you'll want more power. Replace your
cams and 6 months later you'll want more power. Bore and stroke it and 6
months later you'll want more power. Supercharge it and 6 months later
you'll want more power. Buy a ZX-11 and 6 months later you'll want more
power. It only means you'll be going faster when you finally crash.>>
dude,(Dr. Vega) get a clue...
to see where I get my info from go to www.star_riders.org, check out the starchives..
Trending Topics
Aug 29, 2002 | 02:49 PM
#8
Pro Rider
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
oops..I thought it was clear..I was supplying MY comments to the author, Dr. Vega's..mine are in normal type, his are in <<....>> sorry for the confusion...being on boards for a while, this is how I have seen it done..
Aug 29, 2002 | 04:47 PM
#9
Pro Rider
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,252
Likes: 0
This is BS!! He says the pipe doesn't effect the amount of air entering the upstream side of the engine?? I have FMF MegaMax pipes on my utilities. Just adding a SINGLE DISC will lean the mixture out considerably. In fact, I use this to do an "instant rejet" when I go to high altitudes.
I jet at sea level with 6 discs. Just adding 1 disc (still at sea level) and the bike will hardly run it is so lean!!!
I jet at sea level with 6 discs. Just adding 1 disc (still at sea level) and the bike will hardly run it is so lean!!!
Aug 30, 2002 | 08:10 PM
#10
Pro Rider
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
On my Raptor I have it rejetted and I have holes in the airbox! All I have is a slip-on R4. I heard some rattling and wondered if it was the muffler so I took it off and put on the stock silencer and the bike would hardly run. It would spit and puke all over itself yet ran mint with just the slip-on. That just proves that changing just the slip-on will change how much air flows!
John
John