After 200hrs of fast and furious riding decided to delve into clutch only to find desperate need of adjustment. Belt was 1 1/2ins out no problem done removed two shims at total 0.050in belt deflection back to speck. Next concern was the worn shives at the base on the front of the clutch. Finally removed with the right tool was easy but otherwise on there tighter than my first girl friend. I tried machining a new angle to get rid of the worn part. Reinstalled shives, what happened was the hook up took longer and didn't engage as hard as it should lost some top end as well.

Next remedy was to weld shives with 5356 Al2 filler rod and machine to stock. I was going to weld with 6061 aircraft Al2 but thought this should would have better cohesion. After welding the shives they went out of round by 0.005in not bad, trued by machining and balanced them as well.

Put it back together this morning and worked better than new. I have faster clutch engagement and slightly more top end. I must see if the weld will hold up as good as parent material or not time will tell. Will post again after 20hrs of riding. Have fun.

 

Man, if you can do that quality of work at a reasonable price, I'll send my sheaves out to you when the time comes.

 

Alltoys, did you find out if the sheaves were 6061 or some other alloy? I can't see Kawie using some weird alloy as it would not be cost effective. Good idea on using the 5356. Way harder than 4043 and will work harden a bit as well. The 5356 should be harder than the original material anyway, so you should have way better life out of your clutch now. Did you TIG it or did you just blast er up with MIG? Pretty impressive keeping it within 5 thou. Did you build up the entire face or just the worn areas? You got me thinking about trying this now, but my clutch faces aren't that worn yet. Thanks for being the guinea pig!!!!!!!!!!

 

Mastrblastr, NovaKaw650

I tried this the hard way first I took a hardness tester to the shive then welded it with 4043 and found the material to be about the same. I ground off the 4043 then welded on some 6061 and found it did not flow as well as the the parent material and the color was different. The hardness was extremely different. So 5356 is the better candidate for welding. Slightly harder than parent material so it should last longer so the theory goes. I heated the material to 400oF and welded 1/4 about half way up the shive as I had already machined a different angle down to the worn edge. I tested the heat to make sure it was the same all the way around then proceded to the other side welded it let it cool before I attempted the 1/4 and again went to the other side untill it was totaly welded. I went about 2/3 way up the shive added 1/8 near top and about 3/8 close to bottom of shive it was wore that much. I brought it out to 0.020in larger than stock. Since my belt is woren slightly I found this to be a little bit snugger than OEM.

Yes I used a TIG I found the MIG did not adhere to the parent material at least the first time around. I found if you clean the parent material with the high Frequency as you weld, the new material has a better chance of staying put. If you want to use the MIG afterward to lay down material that works well also I preferred to go with the TIG all the way. After it was all welded I used a ceramic blanket to wrap it up overnight and it was still 150of the next morning let it cool mounted it on the lathe and found it was within speck. The rest is history. After I put about 20 hours on it I will post again to let you now how it works.

NovaKaw650 if you have problems with your unit let me now I will do what I can. I like to fiddle about with this kind of stuff, I have been doing this sort of thing for about 30 years now, machining and welding mostly. I have decided to modify the Green Machine to its potential since I have more time now. Any who have fun.