Clutch cover for 00 Polaris 400 Xplorer 4x4?
#1
while putting everything back together after fixing my clutch becuase of a vibration, i noticed it was offbalance and wore a hole in my clutch cover, its not rubbing anymore but im wondering what is the best way to patch the hole or if i can get a new clutch cover (looking at a newer style one as introduced on the 2001 or 2002 polaris wheelers) and what the price wud be on a new one? If anybody has a surefire idea and knows it will work, please contact me! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
thanks, Haz!
thanks, Haz!
#3
I think a new clutch cover from the dealer Is about $65. They are about $90 from Partsland.com. I cannot answer the other questions but thought I would tell you the prices since no one else is responding. If the one for the Xplorer 4x4 in 2002 is the updated one It should work. Oh yeh, that Is just the front cover might have to get the back cover also, not sure because of different bolt patterns? Can anybody verify this?
#5
No prob. hAzArD. How big is the hole and where Is it at exactly?? IMHO I would probably just replace It with a new one for a 2000. If you have clearance problems then you could shim It out a little from the back side of the inside cover, but having that drain and the thicker new cover would be nice huh? I have thought about this too because mine has warped a little from heat, but I think I will try the shimming first, just hadn't got around to it.
#6
I'm back. I got a used cover from an 03 500 HO that my dealer had because a customers battery vent tube came off and acid discolored it some. It is the new style with the drain plug. All the holes line up to bolt it on. The new style cover does have one more bolt lug behind the exhaust port that our old covers don't have, I just ground it off and everything bolts up fine. Now begins the challenge that I have not got around to yet and that is snorkeling. The new cover exhaust port is huge compared to the old so you can't use your old duct, I suppose you could but it would just be restricting all that extra cooling you could have. Like I said I just have not had the time to mess with it.
I just ordered a stage one kit from RCR yesterday and just adding the pipe he really encouraged me to change the stock piston. So now I'm thinking the jug is off for the piston I may as well get the head shaved and trail porting. I just can't decide if I need the porting or not. Most of my riding is tight trails, there are quite a few places to open it up but I just don't know if it would be worth it to me. I'm really undecided. But if Rick says the stock piston has to go I really should listen and decide what else I want to do while I'm in there.
I just ordered a stage one kit from RCR yesterday and just adding the pipe he really encouraged me to change the stock piston. So now I'm thinking the jug is off for the piston I may as well get the head shaved and trail porting. I just can't decide if I need the porting or not. Most of my riding is tight trails, there are quite a few places to open it up but I just don't know if it would be worth it to me. I'm really undecided. But if Rick says the stock piston has to go I really should listen and decide what else I want to do while I'm in there.
#7
Hey I don't have an Xplorer but I do have a Scrambler 400 and recently had motor work. I would definitely get a Wiseco or equivalent piston and I had my head shaved and trail porting while I had It apart and man does It make a difference!! It will give you gobs of bottom end and top but the trail porting Is like It says Trail porting, so It is good for tight trails.
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#8
Thanks NCScrambler,
I wasn't sure if the trail port would just help at mid to higher rpm or if it makes it pull harder bottom to top. And some people ride pretty open trails so one persons deffinition of a trailable machine may not be anothers. Is it still easy to handle in the real slow technical stuff? I kind of know in my mind that if I don't do it now when I change the piston in six moths I will wish I had. The only reason I don't want the port job is because Rick also recomended blocking off the oil injection and running premix. I likes me oil injection but once again I've seen enough posts about RCR and his reliability that I would have to take his advice if I went all the way.
I wasn't sure if the trail port would just help at mid to higher rpm or if it makes it pull harder bottom to top. And some people ride pretty open trails so one persons deffinition of a trailable machine may not be anothers. Is it still easy to handle in the real slow technical stuff? I kind of know in my mind that if I don't do it now when I change the piston in six moths I will wish I had. The only reason I don't want the port job is because Rick also recomended blocking off the oil injection and running premix. I likes me oil injection but once again I've seen enough posts about RCR and his reliability that I would have to take his advice if I went all the way.
#9
I am still running my oil injection, but I am considering going to pre-mix because of jettting problems I am trying to work out. I think it is fine though to keep oil injection. Aaen doesn't reccomend it woth their porting, but they don't say not to either, so I guess it is whoever you talk to's opinion. I have heard alot of good things about Rick too, so I would listen to him. I figured I would be the same way with my re-build If I didn't get the porting, so i did it. I think it is still good for slow technical stuff (my opinion) Ask Rick that question and If he says yes, I would believe him. I can also tell a difference from bottom all the way to the top.
#10
hey skid, nice to see ur around again, ok i think maybe my case is warped cuz its not really vibration its just sometimes at about 25-30 mph i can hear a real quick rub then its over, am i right on this, i mean i just got done replacing things on teh clutch it shudnt be that i dont think or at least hope not, if it is warped or sounds warped to u guys how is this caused, is it common??? any help would be great, thanks guys
Thanks, Haz!
Thanks, Haz!


