well i tryed to adjust them once, but my dad keeps saying it wont help it any and instead he said i should just increase the grade on the gas. which i did and it helped very little. i ended up turning the idle up which helped out alot more but not enough. with gas prices taking a hike upward and a brand new quad to pay for i would like to go back to regular gas, which i think i will. onward to my problems, my dad (and grandpa) have it in there heads that carbs are the devil . they scared me out of adjusting stuff on the carbs. they said unless you get it PERFECT it will run like crap and end up taking hours or going to the dealer to get it fixed. any truth in that? second, my worse fears are comming true...i think i have to re-jet. when i start it up i can smell a hint of gas and it pops alot (through the air box) im thinking that adjusting the screws will take care of the popping. is there any mods that i can put on it so i wont have to re-jet?

 

carbs are not the devil. They are cake once you get used to them.

For a beginner, make small changes, that way it won't get away from you. Listen to how it sounds, runs, and look at plugs until you know what you did is right.

Turn those pilot screws out to at least 2.75 turns front carb and 3.25 turns rear carb. Some people use 3 and 3.5.


Don't worry bout mods either. Just do it one at a time and take your time, rejet it yourself.

It will work better than stock if you learn to do it right. Mine runs way better now than it did stock. It took some time, and a few changes. But I took my time and thought about each change.

 

i think i will attempt the re-jet. before i do i got alot of questions (some may be kinda stupid, never tried anything like this before) first, do all 650s come with the same size stock needles? if not is there a way to tell what size is in there? second, i take it i should use the keihen (spelling?) type jets, right? third, how would i tell what size jets im gonna need? fourth, if i re-jet it now and get the snorkel from you know who later would i have to re-jet it again? fifth, i took a look at the service manual last night and it looks like the needles can be reached by just removeing the air box and the plastic around it (i dont like the idea of takeing off the carb) do you have to take the carbs out? would it be really hard to change the needles if i don't take the carb off? sixth, this is a really stupid one but here it goes, there are 2 needles that i will be replaceing right? i have heard something on a main needle, is this just another name for the needle??? in the service manual it shows the needle behind this black plastic plate those are the ones right?

sorry for all the questions, thanks for all the help!

 

i think i might hold off on the re-jet till this summer. i just got in from adjusting the air mixture and she seems to run great! i noticed there was ALOT less popping. im planning on goin for a short ride tommorow if the weather permits.

i adjusted them 3 turns front and 3 3/4 - 4 turns on the rear

 

what do pilot screws do exactly

 

they change the air mixture in the carbs

 

so the more i turn them out the more air i get, or lesser air i get

 

the farther out you turn them the more air, i found that if i turned them out to far it would start to idle like crap and if i turned them to far in then it would also idle like crap so i left it inbetween the 2

 

does the fromt carb have to be 1/2 turn less then rear

 

The air circuit, or pilot circuit is idle enrichment system. The more you turn them out, the richer the idle. Although turning them out increases the air too, it drags GAS with it.

Yes, if you turn them out too far it will idle like crap (rich). Turned in too far and it will be hard to start in the cold, cough and die a lot.