Got a question on Castor for the Pro's.....TBR, HSD you out there???
#1
im settin up my front end and doing test rides the last couple days trying to get it just the way i like it. Im working with just the ASR uppers right now, i may end up going with a full set up TBR's if these dont work out.........
Anyway... my question is im getting in there gettin some pretty exact angles and heres what ive found:
Stock there was a few degrees of positive camber AT FULL DROOP continueing to ZERO and into negative camber at full compression.... as we all know the steering is a bit twitchy but ive come to be used to it.
Now ive tried adding a few degrees at full droop showing about 6-7 degrees, but still at full compression it is at 0-1 degree negative...... . test ride is a good mix of being more stable, less twitchy
Next, wanting to avoid zero or negative camber at any point in the suspension:
i went to about 8-9 degrees of pos. castor at full droop, at full comp is about 1-2 degrees positive:
handing?.... this thing likes to go straight, i would be comfortable at 80mph with no hands... Really getting a workout trying to take a course with alot of turns, takes alot of muscle to turn this thing.
Sooo.. whats the right answer from the pro's, ive seen HSD post that you would want to avoid zero or negative castor at any suspension setting, now that ive acheived this, at normal squat it is a bissnatch to turn threw the tight course, She likes to go straight....
Is it acceptalbe for the castor to go to zero-1 degree negative at full compression?
any advice is great here guys as im just playing around with an anglefinder and then takin her out for a test ride.
Jetjock16
Anyway... my question is im getting in there gettin some pretty exact angles and heres what ive found:
Stock there was a few degrees of positive camber AT FULL DROOP continueing to ZERO and into negative camber at full compression.... as we all know the steering is a bit twitchy but ive come to be used to it.
Now ive tried adding a few degrees at full droop showing about 6-7 degrees, but still at full compression it is at 0-1 degree negative...... . test ride is a good mix of being more stable, less twitchy
Next, wanting to avoid zero or negative camber at any point in the suspension:
i went to about 8-9 degrees of pos. castor at full droop, at full comp is about 1-2 degrees positive:
handing?.... this thing likes to go straight, i would be comfortable at 80mph with no hands... Really getting a workout trying to take a course with alot of turns, takes alot of muscle to turn this thing.
Sooo.. whats the right answer from the pro's, ive seen HSD post that you would want to avoid zero or negative castor at any suspension setting, now that ive acheived this, at normal squat it is a bissnatch to turn threw the tight course, She likes to go straight....
Is it acceptalbe for the castor to go to zero-1 degree negative at full compression?
any advice is great here guys as im just playing around with an anglefinder and then takin her out for a test ride.
Jetjock16
#2
I ran into the same perdicament while tuning my ASR uppers & all I can say is toss aside all your andle measuring tools & judge it by feel. I found my sweet spot to be around 4 or 4 1/2 turns out if I recall correctly. Don't get caught up with the numbers because everybody's preference & riding style / terrain will be different. Adjust them in 1/2 turn increments & ride!
#3
Hillbilly, you mean about 4 turns out on both sides (of 1 aarm) or just on the forward adjustment, 4 more than the rear, (this is the castor adjustment point) ive found that about 4 turns more on the forward adjustement is about 8 degrees at droop to 1 degree at compression, If you mean 4 turns out on the forward and rearword, than that is not much of an increase over stock, youd be running like 2-3 at droop and well past zero to plus 3-4 degrees of pos castor at full compression(basically the same as stock).
#5
I was talking about 4 additional turns on the forward adjustment, I usually run anywhere from 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 depending on terrain & stability needed. Keep in mind I also run a steering damper so I can get away with a little less positive castor. Actually, I like to run it just slightly twitchy so my turning effort is reduced while I can dial most of it out with the damper when needed on the trail. Hope this helps!
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