differential rev limiter override for a grizzly
#1
I was wondering if any body knows of a site that explains or sells a kit on how to disconnect the locked differential rev limiter or speed limiter depending on how you look at it. i have over rode the reverse rev limiter and it is a great improvement in the mud and snow when you need a little more speed to back out if any one has any info i would love to hear it,
#2
hey come on guys there has to be someone out there who has disconnected there rev limiter so the can use the differential lock at speeds above 20 mph in the locked in postion or has a kit that overides the switch. I have saw several pics of grizzlys on ATV OFFROADEXTREME.COM. and the owners says he has disconnected it and i would like to know how too.
#4
hello, raptorRy i have not recieved any private messages so if it is possible post it on this thread if you have info in regards to the differential override, Because i have not recieved your private message if you sent one sorry, and i would like to hear your thoughts on it and your other input has been very useful to me.
#5
Try this website:
http://tbo.mystarband.net/default.htm
It is for a long-time member of this forum. His handle is 'Silverbear'.
If you don't find what you want you can send him an email. He has helped me out in the past.
Come to think of it, I may have the informatio you want somewhere around here. I will do some snooping. If I find anything, I will post it for you.
Mind You: I take no responsibility for any ramifications to you or your machine for making these modifications.
http://tbo.mystarband.net/default.htm
It is for a long-time member of this forum. His handle is 'Silverbear'.
If you don't find what you want you can send him an email. He has helped me out in the past.
Come to think of it, I may have the informatio you want somewhere around here. I will do some snooping. If I find anything, I will post it for you.
Mind You: I take no responsibility for any ramifications to you or your machine for making these modifications.
#6
Here you go.
I plagiarized from the hard work and posting of others on this forum (so I get none of the credit).
Rev Limiters
Dif Lock Limiter Over-Ride:
Remove the seat, and look in the electrical area. There is a CDI box. It is the big one with the 1 screw holding it on. On the bottom of it, in the wire cluster, there is one wire that is all white. You cut that wire, no more front diff limiter.
Now, some have taken a wire from one end of the cut white wire, and ran a wire to the bars and connected it to a switch. Then run another wire back and connect it to the other end of the cut white wire. This will allow you to hit the switch to bypass your diff limiter.
Reverse Rev Limiter Over-Ride:
You need to interrupt the white wire with the green stripe and ground it out to the frame or battery’s negative post. One widely accepted installation technique uses a switch so that the rider can control whether the limiter is engaged or not.
First install your switch. It can be a pressure-type push-button switch on the handlebars, or a toggle switch mounted on the plastic fairing, or some other arrangement. Thread the two wires from the switch down under the left front frame joist (sitting on the quad, it's your left) and down under the gas tank along the frame (where the other wires are routed) tie-wrapping every so often.
When you get to that wire junction just below and to the right of your fuel shut off valve you'll see a big white wire harness clip held together by a black bungee (just like the thing that holds the funky tools they send you under your seat.) Release that clip, and you'll find one white and green striped wire all by it's lonesome with a bullet solder-less connector under clear plastic. Take one of your wires and splice it into that wire. I would recommend soldering it and then shrink wrapping it when you’re done, but you can use a solder-less splice too. That's the end of wire number one. You can place your splice so that it would fall under the protection of that wiring harness holder. Snap it back into place and replace the tie bungee.
Wire number two, continue to wrap it down your frame, under your air-box lid, between the frame to the negative on your battery and attach it there.
There you go. You can make it as simple or as 'Factory OEM' as you want.
Again . . . I take no responsibility for any consequences to you or your machine for these modifications. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
I plagiarized from the hard work and posting of others on this forum (so I get none of the credit).
Rev Limiters
Dif Lock Limiter Over-Ride:
Remove the seat, and look in the electrical area. There is a CDI box. It is the big one with the 1 screw holding it on. On the bottom of it, in the wire cluster, there is one wire that is all white. You cut that wire, no more front diff limiter.
Now, some have taken a wire from one end of the cut white wire, and ran a wire to the bars and connected it to a switch. Then run another wire back and connect it to the other end of the cut white wire. This will allow you to hit the switch to bypass your diff limiter.
Reverse Rev Limiter Over-Ride:
You need to interrupt the white wire with the green stripe and ground it out to the frame or battery’s negative post. One widely accepted installation technique uses a switch so that the rider can control whether the limiter is engaged or not.
First install your switch. It can be a pressure-type push-button switch on the handlebars, or a toggle switch mounted on the plastic fairing, or some other arrangement. Thread the two wires from the switch down under the left front frame joist (sitting on the quad, it's your left) and down under the gas tank along the frame (where the other wires are routed) tie-wrapping every so often.
When you get to that wire junction just below and to the right of your fuel shut off valve you'll see a big white wire harness clip held together by a black bungee (just like the thing that holds the funky tools they send you under your seat.) Release that clip, and you'll find one white and green striped wire all by it's lonesome with a bullet solder-less connector under clear plastic. Take one of your wires and splice it into that wire. I would recommend soldering it and then shrink wrapping it when you’re done, but you can use a solder-less splice too. That's the end of wire number one. You can place your splice so that it would fall under the protection of that wiring harness holder. Snap it back into place and replace the tie bungee.
Wire number two, continue to wrap it down your frame, under your air-box lid, between the frame to the negative on your battery and attach it there.
There you go. You can make it as simple or as 'Factory OEM' as you want.
Again . . . I take no responsibility for any consequences to you or your machine for these modifications. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
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