Hello,

A dude near my hometown is selling a 250R, which has an FMF pipe, bored 30 over, new red maier (decent) plastic, shredder tires and rims look pretty decent, it says 1988 on frame label, but the guy says its been built from scratch (ie not original motor, etc).
The clutch seems stiff and doesnt engage til the clutch lever is pulled in 50%. Shocks feel pretty good, and no noticable welds on
the frame or A-arms, etc. In some spots, there is spraypaint overspray, etc which is purely cosmetic uglyness but Otherwise, It cranks right up and runs pretty good. He is asking $2500 firm.

Now I got questions: If a cylinder is bored 30 over, what exactly does that mean? I got a couple of other 4-stroke Honda ATVs and
their oversized bore/pistons are measured in mm, ie. 0.25mm, 0.50mm and so on. Does 30 over imply that its been bored 3 times?
Is the max bore 40 over before you have to re-sleave or buy a new cylinder? Just wondering what kinda life a cylinder of 30 over
has left in it. I should probably check the compression of the cylinder. What is considered to be good compression on a 250R
motor?

Does a stiff clutch that doesnt engage til lever is 50% pulled a sign of a "bad clutch"? My gut tells me it'll need a clutch sooner
rather than later, but when I rode it, it didnt slip, etc. Is the feel of a clutch (on the lever) any indication of the actual shape
of the clutch itself?

Lastly, given the issue described above, is $2500 a good price for an '88 250R. Seems like when I buy a used ATV, I find a
better deal the week after. Opinions? Should I BUY or PASS?

Regards,

 

Just that, it's been bored .030 over stock, or it's been bored 3 times.

The maximum number of bores with a stock cylinder (not a resleeved big-bore) is 14 or .140 over. This is for all stock cylinders.

A lot of people get hung up on this. All compression testers read differently. You need to test the compression with what ever gauge you'll be using from now on, and get a "base" reading. Then, periodically test it using the same gauge and the same method. When you see a drop in compression then you'll have and idea of what's going on.
But, anyway, you'll want over 150lbs compression.

The clutch lever could be stiff because it has an aftermarket clutch with new springs, such as a Barnett. Depending on the age of the clutch and the age of the clutch cable (they stretch), it may not engage until halfway out. Doesn't mean much other than there is some wear which is normal. It could be out of adjustment. If you decide to get a new clutch, I recommend oem.

That's an exceptional price for an 88! Almost so exceptional I would be wary. That's even a good price for an "OK" 86-87, and they sell for much less than 88-89s.
What do you mean it says 1988 on frame label?
Here's a quick way to check the year to narrow it down a bit; where's the V.I.N.? If it's an 86-87 it will be on a tag welded to the left side of the frame towards the front of the rear fender. If it's an 88-89 it will be on the front of the frame under the nosepiece.
But, there are great deals out there and this may just be one of them! Good luck!

 

The 1988 Label/Sticker is on the frame on the left side beneath the tank on the inner side of
the LF fender, not on the front. It appears to be a real Honda label (just like the one on
my 300EX), but not in the same location. No idea where the VIN is on the machine. On my
300EX, its on the front of the frame, and it may be there, but didnt inspect closely enough.
I can't image why anyone would fake a sticker, but the frame was painted and the sticker
was preserved. I dunno if its an original sticker, but seems to be the only indicator of the
model on the frame. I didnt see anthing tag welded anywhere else on the frame.
But I'll check it out when I call this guy back.

I feel kinda funny asking the guy if I can check the compression, but I dont want to get into
another project here, and if there is a problem with the bore, piston and rings... I'd rather
pass on the deal. I am up to my eyeballs with broken ATVs at the moment. Its a bitch when
you spend more time fixing than riding.

OK, so if a stock cylinder can be bored to .140, then a .030 bore is no big deal. I thought
the cylinder might be at the end of its life, and was thinking about how much a new cylinder
would cost me $$$. But sounds like that aint all bad.

Let me try this approach... If YOU where shopping out a used 250R, what are the thing you
would look for that may sway your decision to BUY or PASS. Short of tearing the motor
down and inspecting the guts, everything else is tangible. While $2500 might sound like
a good deal, you gotta know that I am from Mississippi and things are a little cheaper in
country. It would be a different story if the ATV were in California. Last week I picked up
a Banshee for $2k, needs a little work, etc. but not too bad. Same machine out west or
even in the city would have brought $2800 easy.

Anywayz, if you guys got any buying tips, or "what to look for", please pass them along.
and thanks!

Happy Trails,

 

trapperb1 is not talking about any sticker, it's an actual number on the frame in the metal, it's right under the front plastic on the brace that runs between your front shock towers.

Some things I would look for in ANY damage around the front sprocket from a chain coming off...check for cracks everywhere, stand it up on the grab bar and inspect the bottom frame rail braces for cracks....my friend's 86' almost dropped the motor out.....check the front and rear wheel bearings for slop...look at the condition of the brake pads and rotor...those are expensive to replace as I am finding out....check the a-arm "boots" to see if they are ripped....take the plastic off and just generaly insect it, if the guy says NO he might be trying to hide something...every little thing you see wrong with it, even minor stuff try and use it against him so he'll drop the price...$2500 for an R is OK shape is a screamin deal...but less is better...in this case.

Good Luck.

 

What Killer said is very good!

I wouldn't worry about checking compression; I'd just try starting it and if it takes a little effort to kick it over you probably have enough.

Take the airbox lid off and see how dirty the airfilter is; good indication of how well maintained the machine is.

Does it run well? Any bad noises? Do all the gears work? Put back end on a block and spin the wheels; see any wobbles or bends?

Do the wheels match in size (yes! I saw a lady buy one that had different size wheels with the same size tires?!?!?[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img])

 

Killer250R,

Oh yeah... I forgot to mention that the front sprocket had a couple of broken teeth on it, but I didnt
notice any other damage around the front sprocket. The other suggestions you made there
are excellent, esp about inspecting the underside of the frame. The brake pads appeared to be
good, but there was a problem with the front brake. The guy said that he broke on of the bleeder
screws, but I didnt look at it real closely. When I took off the seat, the tail end of the airbox was
slightly open and when I opened it up, there was chicken feathers and other debris in there.
(Not a good sign) It had a K&N filter, so I dont think anything entered the motor, but still I can
tell it was not well maintained.

I'm gonna call the guy to see it again... Thanks for all the words of wisdom.. You guys are
terrific.

Regards,

 

The guy might not like this but to see if anything got i the motor see if you can take a screw driver with you and pop off one side of the carb, stick your finger in the carb boot and if it comes out dirty.......well you know.

 

I'm beginning to see why the price is so low.
Still, may be a great deal if you can get the whole thing.
Bargain hard and have cash in hand. When I bought the wife's 87, guy was asking $3000. I had $2200 in one pocket, pulled it out and offered him that much. He said no. I started to leave, offered him $300 more for a total of $2500, he kept looking at the cash and finally said "OK."
You know, money talks, BS walks.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Being bored 30 over or .030 means that it was bored 30 thousanths of a inch. It is just coincidence that it happens to have been bored 3 times. Some people may bore 20 over in the first shot. I believe 10( or .010) over is equal to .25mm. When I had my quad rebuilt, they went 20 over stock the first time, because I think they couldnt only bore .25mm. Too fine I guess, so they went to a .5mm bigger piston and bore

 

Thanks for all the advice.
I broke down and bought the 250R... It eats my banshee for lunch.
Yeah I am happy with it.

-map