Atc 200m Blowing Main fuse
#1
Atc 200m Blowing Main fuse
I have a 1985 ATC 200M. I am having problem getting it running, due to it blowing the 7 Amp main fuse. Can anyone give me an idea of why? I have looked over the wiring. I don't see any bad wires or connections. I don't actually know anything about 3-wheelers. I am just starting to get into riding one. I have ordered a manual but haven't received it yet. Any help would be appreciated. Oh, can anyone tell me what spark plug this needs Thanks
#2
Atc 200m Blowing Main fuse
welcome to the forum..............
The wiring will be easy when you recieve you book........BUT if you still have questions feel free to ask. I posted something simular a bit ago Here....But the book will help out a ton......
spark plug is a ......NGK DR8ES-L at .024-.028 gap
The wiring will be easy when you recieve you book........BUT if you still have questions feel free to ask. I posted something simular a bit ago Here....But the book will help out a ton......
spark plug is a ......NGK DR8ES-L at .024-.028 gap
#4
Atc 200m Blowing Main fuse
I seriously doubt it.
Sounds like a dead short, in some wiring. Look for pinched or bare wires.
Heres an easy way to track down the wire. Get yourself a test light, for low voltage. I got mine at home depot for 2 bucks. Pull the fuse which keeps blowing, then put the test light across the fuse holder. This test light, just became the load, and any short which is downsteam of that, just became the ground. Nothing bad will happen, think about it this way...the circuit was pulling enough amps to blow the 7 amp fuse, and this test light might pull 200 miliamps. Before, with the fuse in, the fuse was the load, now this light is. And because the test light has a very high resistance...extermly little current will flow.
Now start disconnecting connectors, and checking the light. When you get to the short,...the light will go out. Once you have a bundle, or connector nailed down, youll need to look at each wire. Usually you can find the short just by looking. The wire will be scorched, or bare, or frayyed. Sometime you need to wiggle the wires, to get the light to go off. If you have a bare spot touching the frame, then wiggling will make it move, and the light will ficker or come on and off.
I wrote up a small procedure on this, and took some pictures, and its on nyrocs site, in the general tip section.
Let us know what you find.
Sounds like a dead short, in some wiring. Look for pinched or bare wires.
Heres an easy way to track down the wire. Get yourself a test light, for low voltage. I got mine at home depot for 2 bucks. Pull the fuse which keeps blowing, then put the test light across the fuse holder. This test light, just became the load, and any short which is downsteam of that, just became the ground. Nothing bad will happen, think about it this way...the circuit was pulling enough amps to blow the 7 amp fuse, and this test light might pull 200 miliamps. Before, with the fuse in, the fuse was the load, now this light is. And because the test light has a very high resistance...extermly little current will flow.
Now start disconnecting connectors, and checking the light. When you get to the short,...the light will go out. Once you have a bundle, or connector nailed down, youll need to look at each wire. Usually you can find the short just by looking. The wire will be scorched, or bare, or frayyed. Sometime you need to wiggle the wires, to get the light to go off. If you have a bare spot touching the frame, then wiggling will make it move, and the light will ficker or come on and off.
I wrote up a small procedure on this, and took some pictures, and its on nyrocs site, in the general tip section.
Let us know what you find.
#7
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