Which 4wheeler should I buy?
#11
I like the AWD system rather then manual also, its like diff lock that can work at high speeds.
No stopping to put it in diff lock then once through the trouble spot on the trail having to stop once again to put it back in 3wd or 2wd for a faster pace and get your steering back.
This is the rear wheel slip needed to lock the front two wheels, quick enough for my needs.
No stopping to put it in diff lock then once through the trouble spot on the trail having to stop once again to put it back in 3wd or 2wd for a faster pace and get your steering back.
This is the rear wheel slip needed to lock the front two wheels, quick enough for my needs.
#12
It happens so fast and smoothly that I've never been able to feel the 4WD engage or disengage on any of my Sportsmans. It's either in 4x4 or it's not according to if you need it or not. You never have to do anything except push one switch before you get into the mud and you don't have to slow down to do it. Instead of turning it off and on I used to leave the switch on 4x4 all day and you couldn't tell the difference in the way it handled, but someone said leaving the switch on all the time could magnetize the hubs on the old ones so I quit doing that.
#13
visco is a true awd unit- which I think works better than a grizzly style locking front diff... the grizzly will simply split the power to the front wheel regardless of traction- the visco will transfer the power to the wheel that ISN'T spinning (because it has traction) and automatically transfers the power to the tire that is grabbing- even if it's both. also- there's no speed restriction on the visco like there is on the grizz loc. you simply turn it on and forget about it- just ride like you'd normall ride and let the front diff do all the hard work while you focus on a good line
can't even compare an outlander to a grizzly- it's like comparing a honda crv to a jeep GC.
can't even compare an outlander to a grizzly- it's like comparing a honda crv to a jeep GC.
#14
#15
I believe there was an upgrade to the visco in 2008- and then again in 2010 when the visco-qe hit the market.
this is the only hole I can recall getting any of my outlanders stuck in, and I was running 28" megameyhams! ... but all 4 tires were spinning- I was high centered in suck hole- zero traction (the polaris in front of me got stuck too, btw
if you look through the 20 or so albums I have in my profile- you'll see some of the water and mud these beasts with go through without slowing down at all.
#16
from what ive seen and heard the Polaris awd system has some issues over time much more than an atv with a manual locker. Im on the polaris and RZR forums just as much as i am on here as well as arcticchat forums and can am forums since i own all three atv/utv brands, and When comparing the systems as far as issues go it seems the polaris has the most issues after time. Just this past week there were several polaris owners complaining about their awd system is kicking in without hitting the button and others saying its not working at all. They are also saying after a few years maybe more like 5 or 6 yrs later the awd system quits all together and need rebuilt. Can am isnt quite as bad but a few ive seen with some issues. Mostly the older models not spinning a tire like previously stated in this thread. but when you compare the 4wd systems from arctic cat,yamaha,suzuki, i have yet so see any major issues with the system at all. Ive seen the actuators fail on a couple because it strips out on the arctic cat. its an easy fix at least and its been on a hand full in the past 7 years. If i remember correctly the difference between the 2 types are that the manual locking machines have a metal sleeve that slides over and engages the "True" 4wd,so no relying on speed, wheel spin, centrifugal force or however the others work. To me and remember i have ALL 3 Types of systems in my garage, id prefer the manual locking,never a slip at any speed. Its always worked as should,on the other hand my polaris works pretty well but im waiting on the day it decides not to work properly,which is possible with any,but seems polaris is more prone to fail. just my thoughts.
#17
here's some more relevant discussion on the manual vs. auto lockers...
Manual locking diffs are good for low mph straight mud holes; but really- it doesn't get any simpler than the auto locking front diffs.
The main reasons why I don't like the manual diff lock (personally) is,
manual diffs have to be completely stopped to lock it in- whereas the can-am and polaris system you don't.
With the manual diffs, you're limited to a low mph and can't steer with a manual diff lock engaged or risk damage to the front diff.
Plus... the can-am & polaris front locking diffs will lock automatically if you need traction at higher speeds (20+mph) when it detects slippage (like climbing a big wet / sandy / dirt hill ) I don't even know when my front diff is locked most of the time-
I personally like how on the can-am & polaris- you can just turn on the front diff and forget about it- just focus on riding and let the atv worry about when the diff needs to be locked and unlocked- maneuverability, speed and momentum is not a factor with auto locking front diffs like it is with a manual diff.
I've never had a single problem with any of my 12 can-am or 2 Polaris front diffs.
but found it to be a hassle to engage my Suzuki KQ700i manual locking diff; always had to stop in the mud hole, lock the diff, worry about the rpm while the diff was locked, finally climb out of the hole, stop (because you can't steer with it locked) and un lock it... then continue riding.
Auto locking= hit the mud hole at any speed you want, never stop to lock it, climb out with the diff auto locked, keep riding and steering like you normally would do (and cover the guy behind you with gobs of mud because he had to stop to unlock his diff )
just my 2cents-
Manual locking diffs are good for low mph straight mud holes; but really- it doesn't get any simpler than the auto locking front diffs.
The main reasons why I don't like the manual diff lock (personally) is,
manual diffs have to be completely stopped to lock it in- whereas the can-am and polaris system you don't.
With the manual diffs, you're limited to a low mph and can't steer with a manual diff lock engaged or risk damage to the front diff.
Plus... the can-am & polaris front locking diffs will lock automatically if you need traction at higher speeds (20+mph) when it detects slippage (like climbing a big wet / sandy / dirt hill ) I don't even know when my front diff is locked most of the time-
I personally like how on the can-am & polaris- you can just turn on the front diff and forget about it- just focus on riding and let the atv worry about when the diff needs to be locked and unlocked- maneuverability, speed and momentum is not a factor with auto locking front diffs like it is with a manual diff.
I've never had a single problem with any of my 12 can-am or 2 Polaris front diffs.
but found it to be a hassle to engage my Suzuki KQ700i manual locking diff; always had to stop in the mud hole, lock the diff, worry about the rpm while the diff was locked, finally climb out of the hole, stop (because you can't steer with it locked) and un lock it... then continue riding.
Auto locking= hit the mud hole at any speed you want, never stop to lock it, climb out with the diff auto locked, keep riding and steering like you normally would do (and cover the guy behind you with gobs of mud because he had to stop to unlock his diff )
just my 2cents-
#18
I can agree with what your saying. we all have what we like in atvs. Ive never had an issue with higher speeds in diff lock though. Ive hit 40mph with mine locked and no issues. It is harder to steer ill admit but one with EPS is about effortless. You can hardly notice the difference with the locker on. And in most, im saying 98% of my riding is with out ever needing diff lock on in the first place. Like you said just hit the 4wd button and go in almost every situation, its only the deep thick mud holes,large rock crawling,deep snow(12"-14" and more) do i ever need diff lock. With my arcticcat in normal 4wd it still pulls all 4 wheels at times,its just when it gets in a bind does one stop to spin with full force thus needing the locker. Normal trial riding in up to 12" of snow and trails with surface mud do i only need the normal 4wd. And it steers as though its in 2 wd.
I know youve never had any issues with your 4wd systems but by the look of things, you dont keep your atv very long to find out. LOL. Like i said, its when they get 5-6 years old or even older do they seem to start failing with some premature systems givng up early and its not with every one of them. Im sure it has to do with how they were treated.
I know youve never had any issues with your 4wd systems but by the look of things, you dont keep your atv very long to find out. LOL. Like i said, its when they get 5-6 years old or even older do they seem to start failing with some premature systems givng up early and its not with every one of them. Im sure it has to do with how they were treated.
#19
#20
I can agree with what your saying. we all have what we like in atvs. Ive never had an issue with higher speeds in diff lock though. Ive hit 40mph with mine locked and no issues. It is harder to steer ill admit but one with EPS is about effortless. You can hardly notice the difference with the locker on. And in most, im saying 98% of my riding is with out ever needing diff lock on in the first place. Like you said just hit the 4wd button and go in almost every situation, its only the deep thick mud holes,large rock crawling,deep snow(12"-14" and more) do i ever need diff lock. With my arcticcat in normal 4wd it still pulls all 4 wheels at times,its just when it gets in a bind does one stop to spin with full force thus needing the locker. Normal trial riding in up to 12" of snow and trails with surface mud do i only need the normal 4wd. And it steers as though its in 2 wd.
I know youve never had any issues with your 4wd systems but by the look of things, you dont keep your atv very long to find out. LOL. Like i said, its when they get 5-6 years old or even older do they seem to start failing with some premature systems givng up early and its not with every one of them. Im sure it has to do with how they were treated.
I know youve never had any issues with your 4wd systems but by the look of things, you dont keep your atv very long to find out. LOL. Like i said, its when they get 5-6 years old or even older do they seem to start failing with some premature systems givng up early and its not with every one of them. Im sure it has to do with how they were treated.
You don't have these limitations on the auto locking front diffs.
I've kept plenty of atv's long enough to give an accurate review- I've put well over 1000 miles on most of my atv's-