Yes Chris, the idea is appealing. They sell a bung that is threaded that you weld to your pipe. The sensor screws into that. That's the only part I'm not liking. My pipe is fading tho so getting it refinished after the weld isn't as if my pipe didn't need it anyway. This setup if accurate (and it appears to be) would certainly take the guess work out of things. As soon as I get an extra $120 i believe I will be going for it. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

I threw a zoom photo of the o2 welded in place on my page. Really an easy weld if you have access to a mig machine.

jbt

 

I fix computers for a living, I don't think I could pick a MIG welder out of a lineup of welders. I could pick a welder out of a shop of equipment though. What does a typical shop charge to do a weld of that sort?

 

Mark the pipe before you pull the exhaust off the bike. With the exhaust in hand and a pre-drilled hole, the price would be sweet. I would think a shop should charge $5-20 for that, assuming its not a painted or plated surface.

jbt

 

fyi - I drive a keyboard all day long doing routers and perimeter security. Running my own buggy metal fab shop is a hobby I'm trying to convert into a full time gig.

jbt

 

This is the one I got for my mach. http://www.dawesdevices.com/airfuelmeter.html
I thought I had my predator jetted right on. Then after I put this on I found out, I was running lean.
The plug look great I thought, but the ? would be. Did it make my mach run any better.
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]Yes I'm glad I did it.
I have air-holes in my air box and for the 1st test on it, I tape them over to see if the light would change to
richer. Sure enough it did, I guess it made me think on my air box mods. And also on the rear can I run.

All I know I'm not guessing anymore on my jetting. I'm going to put a dail-a-jet on next and see what it does.
The lighting on these is hard to see is direct sunlight. But you can still make it out.


later

 

Maddog419,

I'm don't think this gauge is calibrated for motors with only a carburator. The one I mentioned sights sample voltage readings for the different fuel systems out there.

But for that price, I could get used to tuning to a yellow light. Also, I found out an 18mm oil plug will work if you remove the o2 sensor to use on another bike.

jbt

 

Well your right, Slowride, but for the DS or Predator it works great. I also have it setup to work on all my mach's.
2 strokes also, but a different O2 sensor. Burns out fast on 2 strokes, 3 hours tops.
Also use it on my 83 chevy, lol

I'm don't think this gauge is calibrated for motors with only a carburator.
(Slowride) That's all I own.
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Hope this helps some out.

later

 

Stay away from this. It is useless in my opinion. It is impossible to monitor an O2 accurately with a seven segment digital display. The reason being is its refresh rate. Yeah it may give you a constant rich lean reading if it’s stuck either high or low voltage (>.800 volts=rich or <.200 volts=lean)

But it is harder to read a display toggling around .849 volts rather than a light, LED, or light bar reading in the rich range.

Refresh rate refers to the time it takes the display to read the oxygen sensor value then in turn display that numeric reading for the eye to see. The way an oxygen sensor works is by a generating a 0 – 1 volt signal chemically within itself. It has no batteries it works off the heat of the exhaust. .450 volts (lets say .5 volt) is the bias voltage. Anything less is considered lean and anything higher is considered rich. Actually most computers want to see a swing of >.800 volts or <.200 volts to make the computer either fatten up or lean out the motor.

And here’s the important part: This swing from <.200 volts to >.800 volts must happen approx. 10-15 times per second for the motors computer to be in fuel control. So the only way to monitor this correctly is with a graphing multimeter or oscilloscope. It is represented graphically in the form of a sine wave with an amplitude of 0-1 volt (vertical reading) in a 0-1 second time division. (horizontal reading)

This way you can see how long the actual O2 is staying rich , for example, before it starts switching again or goes lean. Or if there is a faulty (drop out signal) O2.

Yes it will give you the general idea of the O2 status if that is what your looking for but not tell you anything else about the condition of the O2 like switching rate, drop outs, etc… Plus I will guess looking at a .xxx three digit number toggling from .1xx to .9xx in .001 increments at whatever refresh rate it has would make me dizzy after awhile. Especially when you are riding!!! It takes time to focus on a numeric value like that then have to process it at speed on your quad!!! I’d rather see a needle or a series of red/green lights and know instinctively ohhh it’s rich or lean. That’s why you’ll never see seven segment digital displays in any form of racing.

Jiggle on that.

 

LOL
Good info though.
And I would be curious how leaded race fuel would affect it over time?