your mileage problem is definetely needle and pilot related.

there is also a possibility that the float valve may be leaking a bit and you may be losing some gas out the overflow tube on the trail - this can be determined by shaking the bike a little and looking for aot of dribble out the overflow tube. keep in mind, if you shake it hard enough you will get some dribble, but constant dribble means replace the needle valve and brass seat together.

but your mileage is definitely being severely compromised by the rich needle setting and pilot. you spend little time on the main, do not jet it down, 145 is about as small as any stage 1 ds would run at sea level, most are even richer. the black plug is from the pilot and needle circuits, this is where you spend the most time with the throttle.

here's the lowdown - RWR sets up pilots rich to compensate for lack of pumper which they strip off these carbs to lessen throttle tension on the thumb. the result is too rich a pilot and a black plug. your needle is also set way too rich, which is why you run feel like you run like a raped ape without the pumper. put your needle on the 2nd groove from the top, and ideally you otta have the 97 needle instead of the 96. and put in a 30 pilot, then set the idle mix screw between 3/4 and 1 turn out from seated. about the idle mix screw - if you run well cold and bad when warmed up, it is set too rich so turn it out a 1/4 turn at a time - if you run bad cold but good warmed up, it is too lean so turn it in 1/4 turn at a time.

Now, after doing the above, you will be jetted much closer to correct, the plugs should not go black any more, and your mielage will be much better. BUT, you will now be experiencing the lag coming off idle that the pumper is supposed to fill. You can live with it and roll off idle gentle to avoid the lag, but still not have the response you otta have going from 1/4 throttle to hammer down either (this is why the needle was set so high to begin with). So the best thing to do is get the parts needed to re-activate the adulterated pumper and run the carb the way it was meant to be.

here is a link with a little info, access to a tuning manual that has a full parts breakdown:
http://www.flatlandersatv.com/tm45.htm

 

also, after doing all this, you may realize you main jet is too lean. 145 is kinda small, maybe your graydon pipe needs that, I don't know. but its very common for people to mistake a black plug for a rich main jet, so they drop the main considerably, when in reality its the needle causing the soot. the result is less top end power, with a bottom end that feels awesome. if you have dyno access, it highly recommended for main jet selection, tune for peek power and a air/fuel ratio on top between 12.5:1 and 13:1. if not, do full throttle runs for a sustained period in a high gear and listen for missing/sputter - if the bike is sputtering at sustained full throttle you are lean and as you jet up one at a time you will here the sputter lessen and the power keep coming. I like to jet down far enough to induce the sputter if I'm not getting it the first run, so I can work my way up and find the right jet, and the right jet usually ends up being around 4 or 5 sizes (2.5 increments) up from where the sputter went away. working down from rich is much harder to detect, but that's no issue for you because I just about guarantee you aint rich.

 

Changed Pilot to 40, Main to 150, & moved needle (96 still) to 3rd slot. Got more jets , the 97 needle, & pumper parts coming from Elliot. Should get Monday.

When I pop the throttle from idle standing still, I'm getting a flame out the exhaust, which I assume is unburnt gases from rich needle & pilot. Will check when get new parts. Will moving needle to 2nd slot help this??

KenS

 

Here ya go:

The best way to determin if you need Jetting is like this. The carb delivers fuel depending on the throttle position: 0 to about 1/8 throttle is controlled by the Pilot jet size, and fine tuned by the airscrews 1/4 to 3/4 throttle is controlled by the needle taper & length, fine tuned by the clip position 3/4 to WOT is controlled by the main jet size Once you know which circuit or circuits are rich or lean, you can begin to dial in the Jetting. Anytime you make a change that effects either something going into or out of the motor, Jetting is effected.

Best thing to do is if you really want to get fanatical about it is get yourself three sets of new plugs. First start the quad and let it idle and chop the throttle to 1/8th throttle for 10 minutes. kill it and pull the plugs when cool enough. You wont need to mess with your pilot jet more than likely. Adjust your air screw accordingly but generaly 2-2.5 turns out from being all the way in is usually just right.

You can do the same with 1/2 throttle and full throttle by running them a decent distance at those positions. Remember though, kill the motor at those RPM's, Dont let it go back to idle then kill it or you will get a false reading. Remember to pull in the clutch too when you kill it.

This is a bit or work but it pays off huge. When you hear stories of some guys with the same mods that others have but are alot faster, this is why. They have taken the time to tune the bike in 100%. When I had mine I spent an entire weekend doing this and gained 8 quad lengths over my brothers Raptor. Thats how you put "magic" into your carb!

 

seadog that 40 pilot is still too rich, and unless you are running a clamp on air filter direct to carb so is the 3rd needle clip. do not listen to Elliot on this, this has been going for years about this pumper business and them always putting in too rich pilots as a week attempt to bandaid a missing pumper, they refuse to acknowledge the fact that Mikuni designed this carb for pumper use just as all other flat slides have them. for drags and flat tracks where you are always high rpm these things do not matter, but on the trail they are super important, and RWR apparently does not have any expeience in that department or they would see the light.

 

Hightower, he can get away with the 40 pilot but he will have to have the rich/lean screw turned out
2 1/2 + or -. Dial the rest in with the pump and needle settings. 145 to 150 on the main is pretty close depending on the mods.

 

I run a stock set up with the only thing really changed is the 175 jet. After not even 3 laps on on a 9 mile course running pretty much wide open in 1st and second gear, I ran out of gas and had to switch to reserve. So at about 23 miles I ran out. I knew this was going to happen so I had placed a can close to the start/finish line and threw about 1-1/2 gallons in it.
They are hungry.

 

Just waiting for the parts to show up! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] Should be here tomorrow [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

OK!! Now I feel like Clint Eastwood w/ a fistful of jets --- Make My Day!!! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

Changed needle to 97 on the 2nd clip, primary to 35, & main to 155. While I was in there, I activated the pump.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Results --- Still starts right up, pop through muffler seems to be decreased, along w/ better response w/ quick rev from idle. All of this while still stationary as I didn't have time to actually get in the seat. Will try a couple of spins tonight B4 everyone goes to sleep [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

Also adjusted the floats the other day & don't see any leaks.

Only other change for now will be airbox lid mod from EHS Racing, then I can finetune from there w/ a few rides.

KenS