GURU'S ADVISE PLEASE
 

I have been posting for a few days now about my loud (VALVE SOUND) engine and my problems with the bike having no power. (03 ds, 50 hrs, live and ride in va)

so.......

today i was off and bored so i started tearing it down. As i took off the valve cover, i noticed that the chain in REALLY loose, enough that i can grab it and lift and push it up to a 1/4 inch each way. Now, i know the cam chain tensioners have some tendencies to get loose so, i figure that is what has happened. How do i fix it (clean it/replace it)?? and where is it. Right in between the cams, i noticed a black plastic piece that the chain runs over. is this it???how do i clean or where do i buy one.

also, as stated in other posts, i have a UNI filter hmf pipe, and jet(no clue which one bc i came with the pipe) i am gonna buy some new jets, try the 170 or 180 mikuni with no air box and a k&n with an outterwear. all to try and fix the lack-luster power issue.

finally, i need to get the new screws for the carb bowl, screw and washer that hold the front faring/headlight trim peice on to the gas tank cover anyone know off hand what the sizes are, or am i best off going to the hardware store and matching them up?

GURU'S ADVISE PLEASE
 

First off, the noise you probably heard is the chain slapping around. The black plastic thing between the cams is simply a guide. the tensioner is behind the motor/chain area. You'll see a big hex nut head. If you don't have big metric wrenches, you can use a 7/8inch wrench. Fit's perfectly. Pull that out, and inspect your tensioner. Sounds like it might be stuck in the compressed position. Also check the black guide that it rests against. Don't want to be running any broken guides.
Depending on what you find there, you might have to go buy a new tensioner.

While you are in the head, YOU MUST check your valve clearances. If you don't have a service manual, I'd suggest getting one. If you don't have one, I'm sure we can talk you through it. When your are checking valve clearances, you can also check your cam timing. Just in case......

As far as the carb goes. That sounds a tad rich to me, but it's been a long time since I was running the stocker. Then again, I was drilling jets to go big enough for the motor a long time ago.... Seems like for ever ago. Someone will chime in on stock jetting with a similar set up.

Nut, screws, bolts etc. etc. Look on ebay and find yourself a bolt kit, or go down to your local true value. They've usually got a great selection of hardware. Simple as pie. You might want to change the float bowl screws over to Allen head. They'll last much longer.

Good Luck iccky.

BD

GURU'S ADVISE PLEASE
 

Already hit you with my jetting suggestions. But I would make sure the guts are running good before you adjust the jetting......My thoughts anyway

GURU'S ADVISE PLEASE
 

i have planned on checking the valve clearances while everything was apart. i found this link to be very helpful http://www.ljsoftware.com/DS/DS650Main.html . i will use it to check the valve clearances and check the tensioner.

also, is there a write up on checking the cam timing? bc i might as well do it all now.

and i am planning on hitting up the local true value for the bolts and screws that i need.

and as far as the jetting goes, i will buy some selected jets and run them with the new filter and no air box set up. I am not to worried about mud and water because i have my new outlander 800 to do that with.. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

all i need now is a clearance checking tool. Any clue where i can find shims and the TDC locking tool?

GURU'S ADVISE PLEASE
 

The TDC locking tool is nothing more than a long bolt. It's manicured at the tip so as not to damage the crank. Clearence check tool.... just a straight set of feeler guages. $4 maybe... you'll be off to the races. Let me know if you don't find a write up. I'll walk you through it.

BD

GURU'S ADVISE PLEASE
 

Iccky,
pm me with your address and i will burn you a copy of the owner/service manual if you dont have one. Let me know.

John aka Chiknhawk

GURU'S ADVISE PLEASE
 

john did you get that tire replaced yet? iccky if your cam tensioner is done for let me know i will hunt down my extra one and you can have it. chickenhawk do you want to trip over another cylinder and piston? iccky are you running a dynojet needle or the stock, if dyno let me know what size you need.

GURU'S ADVISE PLEASE
 

Wow you guys have been more than helpful. This is by far one of the best boards i have ever been on. Its nice to come to a new board concering something that you really like and the people dont flame you and bash you just because your overall posts dont exceed 1000. Thank you guys again very much..

but, tommorow i am going to buy a feeler guage and check the tensioner for complete compression, check the valve clearances and hopefully with some help, check the cam timing.

but i will keep all in tune and i am sure i will have some more questions. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

chiknhawk, check PM

2BIG2BFAST, I will let you know tommorow for sure if i need that tensioner. Also, i do need jets. i am not sure what brand to go with and it really doesnt matter to me, as long as i get this thing running right and the mixture is good. I am Slightly famillar with the mikuni numbers, if you have some being equillent to the .170 .175, and the .180, then i am more than willing to get those from you. (what are the main differences between the mikuni and dynojet jets?)

thanks again all, it is much appreciated

GURU'S ADVISE PLEASE
 

i believe if you have a mikuni needle you have to run mikuni jets and if you have a dynojet needle you have to run the dyno jets. if somebody can confirm this it would help. if you can run dynojets with the mikuni needle i will send you the jets you need.

GURU'S ADVISE PLEASE
 

2big. That would be a good idea. Keep it like Mikuni or Dynojet. For tuning purposes alone, stick with one brand. The numbers will gel, especially if you're talking with us on the board.

Cam timing is as easy as looking at some marks after you are at TDC (Top Dead Center). Super simple to read and fairly simple for a newbie to change. That said, I don't know what your mechanical ability is.

Yea, this is good bunch of guys here. We have our sqwabbles (1/4 of every other forum), but are thick as theives when it comes to supporting each other.

We all very much believe in the quads we ride. We believe in the people on the board, and must of us know each other. Guys from Kentucky, Texas, AZ, UT, NV, CA, CO etc. etc. all travel to ride together and race each other. I think we had guys from 5 states working on Sandbomber's bike. Incidently, that bike is the fastest production 4 stroke in the country right now. KOTH!!!!!!