The cooling system basicly has an electic fan actuated by a temperature sensor (the gold terminal with the two wires). If the fan comes on when you cross the terminals then the fan motor is at least good. Two possible causes for the fan not working - bad sensor, or an air pocket in cooling system. Remove sensor (drain antifreeze first). Measure resistance across the terminals with an ohm meter - should read open. Dip sensor in hot water (over 180 degrees- use pliers ) and measure continuity across terminals - the terminals should read closed or connected. If it doesn't , the sensor is bad, if it checks out o.k., you may have an air pocket in the cooling system. On my vx200 the fan seams to come on at about 180+/- degrees and shuts down around 150 or so (I installed a temp sensor and guage). The fan also will stop when the key is shut off. If your not keen on testing the sensor yourself, just remove it and bring it to any decent mechanic, they should be able to test it for you. Best of luck.

 

The first few short rides had me worried so I too tested the sensor , it turned out to be fine ,the fan rarley comes on - my daughter does not ride it hard at all. Propertymaint advice is exactly what you should do if you suspect an overheating problem.

 

propertymaint:::: not to sound stupid what setting should the meter be on and when you say opened and closed what do you mean.....

 

Any Ohms setting should do 100k - 200k. The temp sensor should read open when cold - infinite resistance across the terminals (same as when the the ohm meter is set to ohms and the meter leads are not touching) and the temp sensor when hot (180 + degrees) should read closed - zero resistance across the terminals (same as when you touch the two meter leads together in any ohm setting) which completes the circuit to energize the fan motor. Sorry, I got pretty basic with my description but I don't know any other way to describe it. Let us know how you make out.

 

I was digging through the wiring again today I found 2 wire leads not hooked up to anything and couldn't find anything to hook them to. Does anyone know what they are and were the go. Propertymaint thanks for the tip the sensor is bad......

 

What colors are the wires, where (appx) are they located and what type of ends do they have on them? Are they flat blades, receptacles (females) for flat blades, small pins, large pins, small or large pin receptacles or a combination? This information would be helpful for us when we look at our atv's to check. The manufacturer probably uses one wiring harness for several models of ATV's. It's cheaper to make one wiring harness for several models and have the extra wires in it than it is to make several different wiring harness' for each ATV. There are no changeovers for different ATV's, suppliers/dealers only have to stock one or two harness' for several different models instead of one or two harness for each model (10 models makes 10 to 20 harness' where the same harness that will fit 10 models is only 2 in stock) Less overhead, less taxes on inventory, less labor, less machinery/equipment and less cost. And for a little explanation of opened and closed circuits that is easily understood; When you turn a lightswitch on the circuit is closed (power is running through the switch contacts to the light) when the lightswitch is turned off the contacts are opened and there is no power running to the light. Closed means you have continuity (contact allowing power to flow through) Opened means there is not continuity and it's like a broken wire. A multimeter set to the ohms scale will read the resistance through a circuit (similar to a light dimmer switch, the more resistance the dimmer the bulb, the less resistance the brighter the bulb). No resistance means the circuit is basically closed but shouldn't be confused with no continuity. If the circuit is opened (no contact) your digital meter will show "OL" and will not change regardless of any contact with the wires. With a Analog meter (needle and dial) the needle will not move if there is an open circuit. A fully closed circuit will show up on your meter as 0 or the analog needle will peg to the end of the dial. You can test your fan temp sensor using a good thermometer attached/held against the radiator near the temp sensor or on the temp sensor closest to the radiator and having a multimeter attached to the sensor with alligator clips or something to hold it tight to the terminals. It will usually turn on at a temp higher than what it is rated for. a 180 temp sensor usually comes on around 190 to 195 and turns off at 180. A good way to tell if the engine is actually overheating is to check the temperature of the outgoing and incoming water from the engine and radiator. This can be done with a pyrometer. Either laser or contact will work. Most auto mechanics have these that are standalone or plug into their multimeters. You can even do a internet search or go to your local auto parts store to purchase one. The go anywhere from $50 on up. They are good for a lot of things though. You can check your exhaust pipe temp to see if the carb is jetted properly or the valves are set correctly, check bearing temps to see if they are going bad and getting hot, check for drafts around windows and doors in the house/shop/garage, check the outer temp of a steak on the grill (of put a slice in it and check the inside temp, both without touching the meat (infared pyrometer) ), check interior wall temps to see what/how the insulation is rated for and doing, check auto and cycle radiators to see if the water is flowing/cooling properly, etc. etc. etc. They are handy little gizmos to have and I could go on and on with uses for them. I use mine for just about anything I can think of and it came in handy jetting the aftermarket carb I put on my Falcon 250 and figuring out the overheating light coming on. When my Falcon is running and the headlights are on the red light (overtemp light) will come on anywhere above light throttle. At idle it is off and it only happens with the headlights on. The temp sensor is activated by resistance, with less voltage (headlights on) the temp sensor comes on earlier because the relay or circuitry that turns the light on is looking for a certain voltage from the high temp sensor (probably 10 or less volts). In the hopes it was just a bad ground I added an additional one and it got better but not fixed. My next step is to just add a standard mechanical automotive guage/sensor onto the engine/water output with a t fitting, wire the backlight up with the original temp sensor so the back light comes on when the original temp sensor signals it to and alerts me to look at the guage. It may be on whenever I have the headlights on but if it does switch on and off I'll know when the temp may be high. The original sensor as checked out and certified as to calibration by me at work does come on at appx 210 degrees using a 20psi steam line and pyrometer.

i8amm

 

Just to let everybody know before they make the mistake that I made. My vX 200 is a 300 pound paper weight. First the radiator fan wasnt' turning on (bad sensor) 3 days after I bought it. Parts back ordered forever. Tech support at Redcat told me to bridge the wires together and make the fan run as soon as the key was turned on (fan motor overheated) no spacers in the front wheels left front feel off (luckly was in the yard) new hubs they were in stock. Today riding in the yard the battery falls out of the bottom of the bike (battery held on by the plastic and plastic isn't covered by the warrenty, and guess what the plastic is on back order and no clue when it will be here. DON'T BUY THE REDCAT !!!!!!!!!!!!

 

sorry to hear your problems. Are the plastics junk or can you make a custom battery holder and get by. I thought it looked pretty sturdy but I guess i'll look into putting some type of support in my battery case. Parts were 1 of my main concerns . I've been keeping tabs on several websites and some basic parts are listed as out of stock - no expected date . Have you called raceway they were selling this quad 7 months ago I would be very dissapointed if they are no longer getting parts for them.

 

I debated weather to reply or not but I was the one who started this original thread so here goes. First off, sorry to hear about your troubles. I haven't had to buy a lot or any parts for my vx200 but I'm sure John at Raceway will be able to get them for you. He is a pretty busy guy so just stay on him and he will get the job done for you. Secondly, (4boysnomoney - this is not directed at you) for anyone else out there that is looking at purchasing an atv - Redcat atv's aren't for everybody, but they do have a niche in the market place. They are good entry level Atv's or for the occational rider but I am a firm believer that a person purchasing one of these atv's needs to have a strong mechanical background. These are not gas and go atv's right out of the crate. They need a lot of attention before the first ride and some modifications and you need to be able to identify these areas just by looking at it. They are a lot less money than the Japanese quads because they are a cheap Chinese Knock off. A Milwalkee drill is a heck of a lot better than the Chinese knock off versions from Harbor freight but it is also a lot more money, again, both have a niche in the market place - for the occational user the Harbor Freight drill may be fine. I'm not trying to knock anyone but you get what you pay for in this world and ATV's are no exception to the rule. If I rode my vx200 like I rode my Honda 200x atc when I was 17 years old the thing would be in pieces. It has bottomed out on every small jump I have gone over. But riding down the trail at moderate speeds it's suspension soaks up the bumps well and it's a lot of fun. Sorry for the rant. 4boysnomoney I wish I would have known someone told you to wire the fan for contnuous run - I would have told you the motor would have burned out - it is not a continuous duty motor. If the sensor is backordered try taking it out and bringing it to a good parts store (not Autozone) someone like NAPA of FleetPride. They may be able to match up the sensor and threads to something that will work for you. Most of the professional career parts guys are very knowledgable and eager to solve the impossible. I wish I had some time, Iwould pull mine off and get a part number for you from the Napa down the street. Again, sorry to hear your troubles - hang in there you'll get back on the trail. Best of luck.

 

Well ive been pounding my vx-200 quite a few times now and have to report for the money it is great. It has gone places i didnt think were possible. My buddies all have honda 4x4's and i went all over with them. Ive climbed hills that i thought were impossible for the vx and it is quite strong in the low to midrange. Top end is a little lacking but in the trails i kept right up. Over all im REALLY IMPRESSED with the redcat.