Thanks for confirming on the swing arm, I had a feeling those bolts were the trick.. I'll take care of that once I get it running right.

OK update - I reversed the throttle cable at the carb end, and this fixed the issue! thank you so much Lynn!!

few more questions though -

1. the choke cable - its like reversed. If I pull it out (for say a cold day to get it running) it runs like it should. This indicates to me that the valve inside is CLOSED when I pull the cable, which is odd, shouldn't it be the opposite? If I push it in (the way it should be always it looks like) it dies immediately, but I've confirmed that the valve is open when the cable is pushed in by looking into the carb from the air filter side (remove the air filter to see). I could just jerry rig it for the valve to stay closed (the choke handle would want to be out all the time, but I could disconnect it) but I'd really like to know why its like this.. its like the choke spring assembly (that swings the valve inside the carb) is facing the wrong direction.

If this doesn't make sense, let me know, I'll try to make it clearer next time, lol

2. I tried the lights test - the switch DOES work the front light, high and low. However, its like theres a fuse blown - is this possible? there are 3 wires going into the light socket - 1 is ground, so always neg, and the other 2, positive when switched on each. When I switch it on, it goes from nothing (or neutral) to ground, instead of positive. This makes me think a fuse is blown. Are there fuses on this thing? I don't see any. As far as the rear light - I still need to test for it, something came up and I can't work on the quad for another hour or so. I'll let you know though. I figured this was enough to let you chew on.

Everything else I think I can do myself. Thanks a lot for your help again, and I'll take a pic for you when I get it all done!

 

Don't know about the choke cable - mine has an automatic choke.

Quads *always* have at least one fuse unless someone has hacked the wiring up. The fuse is always real close to the battery. If a short occurs in the wiring you can get 150 amps out of the battery which is enough to vaporize wires and cause instant fire.

I didn't understand your comment about the front lights. Do they light up? If so your fuse isn't blown.

 

the fuse near the battery is fine, I checked it with a volt meter. i'll continue to check around.

there is no bulb in the front. I'm testing it with a voltmeter. The 2 (non ground) wires go to ground when they should go to + when I switch the lights on. In order for a bulb to light up, it needs a pos and neg to complete the circuit... which I'm sure you already know. So the socket is not getting the proper power that it should, its ONLY getting grounds. Thus, my issue. Worst case, I'll make my own light switch, its not too big of a deal. I'm more worried about why the ignition switch isn't powering the solenoid on - another thing I can rig. (I do have electronics experience, I'm not just winging it, lol)

 

just realized that its actually Fuxin* 90, not Fushin. in case anyone is google searching this.

 

Ok, solved the starting issue. The brake MUST be held on this bike in order for the starter switch to work. Good to go, just need to clean it all up tighten everything and replace the brake reservoir (on its way).

Again, thank you for all of your help Lynn, without you the thing would have went to the dump. And thank god for the internet!!

 

Awesome! Glad you got it running.