Solenoid Problem?
 

I set the ohms reading to the small wires. It drops to 0 ohms. I then checked the two top screws when wired. They both say 12 volts when hooked up. I don't have a continuity meter, only a voltmeter. The lights don't turn on. Is it the Solenoid?

i would check the battery and connections. Solenoid only operates the starter does nothing with the lights

stange because..
 

The killswitch wire (which leads to the CDI), has no signal. The ignition wire is naturally red to black (on), striped to green (off). Is the CDI bad again? Cus I bought two and they both read the same thing. I bought a new wire harness as well. I checked the old one and all the wires passed through. Strange...am I missing something?

The stator is reading 425 & 125 ohms. The connectors were reading well as well. Its not the stator. Hmmm.

Hmmm...
 

still don't see it. no 12 volt signal to the electrical system. I guess my plan is this:

1.) Cont to use this schematic, works great for lights. Fuel vaporizer included.
2.) Use the KS as an on/off mechanism. So it turns the engine on/ and off via the solenoid and maybe a fuse.

3.) Ocean city here I come.

Hmmm...
 

still don't see it. no 12 volt signal to the electrical system. I guess my plan is this:

1.) Cont to use this schematic, works great for lights. Fuel vaporizer included. Attachment 29372

2.) Use the KS as an on/off mechanism. So it turns the engine on/ and off via the solenoid and maybe a fuse.

3.) Ocean city here I come.

As Zrock posted above the solenoid has nothing to do with your lights neither does the cdi. Check your fuse.
If all is well then follow the wires from your head lamp to the first socket. Disconnect it.
Turn you light switch on and check the voltage at the socket. Must read same as the battery.
If no reading then check your lights switch by disconnecting it at the 1st socket of the wire coming from the switch. Turn your voltmeter to ohms and with the switch tuned on you must have zero ohms.
If its ok then go to the ignition switch. Usually it has 4 wires coming from it. Disconnect it at the 1st socket and measure the resistance between the pins on the ignition side. The red and black wires usually go to start the engine and the other two are for lights. With the key turned on the resistance between each pair must be zero.
From your post I have assumed that the engine fires and works normally.

Kill switches will have no power they are a ground only. Instead of modifying and changing the key on the machine to one that will start the machine. Diagnose what you have now. Its just a mater of using your mulit meter and finding out where the brake in the wire is or the faulty part.

That might be it...
 

however no voltage appears in the following:

1.) tail lights/ blinkers.

2.) Killswitch.

I think I have no choice but to reroute the solenoid to the ks as a temporary fix. This is most likely an issue of simply bad contact, bad terminals...the last wire harness did the exact same thing. I checked the voltage of the last wire harness with an AA battery&voltmeter and it read fine. I know the CDI leads to the KS, so I'm not totally convinced the lighting system and KS are bad because of 'defective wiring'. I think it may infact be a bad CDI ie I bought 2 bad CDIs that were manufactured improperly. I have no way of testing CDIs, but I think it may be that hence CDis do not affect the lighting system, but it affects the KS.

You will never see voltage at the kill switch it interrupts the ground no voltage involved. Wiring your solenoid to key to get voltage is going to do nothing other than possibly catching fire. You eather have a bad key, or something wrong in the main feed from battery.

True. That's why we use the voltmeter to measures ONLY the resistance between the wires coming from the switches to determine whether the switches broken or not.