I've been asked how I was able to strap down the front suspension on my front strutted Prairie... here is a breif explaination... I'd think it could transfer over ( at least basically ) to any of the other strutted utility quads...

1st... the hardware needed

6 - 3/8" X 2" eyebolts ( I used stainless )

2 - 3/8" threaded rod conectors

8 - 3/8" nuts

6 - 3/8" flat washers

2 small pieces of steel or aluminum ( I used 1/8" thick aluminum for weight savings, rust prevention, & ease of shaping )

2 - 6' ratchet straps

I found a section of the lower strut mount "webbing" that was centered on the lower strut support, & cut & shaped the small aluminum pieces to fit inside this section of the "webbing", one on each side, of the lower strut support

I drilled a size bigger than 3/8" hole through the center of that section of web, & both shaped pieces of the shaped aluminum

I first opened each eye bolt so that there was about 1/8" - 3/16" gap, where the eye is bent around & meets itself, then cut one ( for each side, left / right ), eye bolt, so that when inserted from the rear, with a nut screwed tightly down to the eye, that aproximately 1/2" of threads poke through the hole in the web & 2 reinforcing plates ( shaped aluminum ), & screwed on the threaded rod connector, tightening it, so that the eye bolt loop is standing up, rather than laying down...

next I cut the 2 front eye bolts, so that they would screw as far into the threaded rod connector, as possible, without contacting the rear eye bolts, & screwed them into the threaded rod connector, as tightly as possible, & leaving the eye standing, rather than laying ( like the rears )

next requires removing the rear bolts from the front rack ( on the Prairies these are threaded into the front shock towers in the perfect spot )... on other brands, you'll need to see if there is an attachment point, just above the lower eye bolts, & at the top strut mount... on the Prairies, I drilled the threaded hole out of the upper strut mount, to a size bigger than 3/8", & again threaded a nut down tight against the eye's of the remaining 2 eye bolts, & added one each of the flat washers... inserting them up from the bottom, through the shock tower, add a flat washer & nut on top of the shock tower, & through the rear rack bolt holes ( you'll likely need to drill these to match ), then add the last 2 flat washers & nuts, & trim the thread end of these eye bolts to length ( you can add an acorn nut or similar on the top if you'd like )

next I cut the hooks off of both ends of the ratchet straps, & I insert the hook loop, on the strap, through the gap of the rear eye bolt, up through the upper eye bolt, then slip the strap loop of the ratch piece of the strap through the gap in the front eye bolt, & thread the rear strap through the ratchet mechanism, insuring that it's not twisted ( I cut my staps to length, to insure that there is no extra to get wrapped around the front axel, etc ), then ratchet the front suspension down...

I was able to leave the eye bolts in place for the whole year, over the summer, with out any problems, you'll also want to check the clearance of the back of the front wheels / tires ( the clearance has been fine with both my 300 Prairie & 650 Prairie stock front wheels, & should be no problems with any of the cast wheels with a larger offset...

some of the goals to keep steering as uninterupted as possible, are to keep the lower eye bolt loops as tight ( close ) to the lower strut as possible, & keep the upper eye bolt as centered between the 2 lower ones, & as close to the strut as possible... Please check everything for fitment, & be careful... this system has worked perfectly for me, for the last 2 years...

 

Forgive if I'm confused....."strap down the front suspension" what exactly do you mean? what are you trying to achive?

 

for course racing ... like circle track, or for curvy courses on ice or dirt, it can be an advantage to lower, & lessen the suspension travel, in order to go faster...