I've used lotsa different spark plugs, including Splitfires, trust me, NGK is the only way to go.
We can buy 'em at our local parts store for $1.85, $5.00 for the type supplied in the Highlifter power kit.

 

I used to race mustle cars, and from that experience I know that spark plugs can give you high power increases and throttle improvement (faster rpm gain).

Try it for yourself... Anyone experienced with motors knows. If not everyone...

 

Hey recon98 what size of NGK plug do you use in your recon

1998 Honda Recon,shockwears,K&N,outerwears.
www.geocities.com/hondapride_98

 

I have NGK DPR8EVX/9 in my Recon w/ Highlifter power kit, and DPR8EA/9 in my "standard" Recon.
The "EVX" plug is about 5 bucks, the standard plug about $1.85. U.S. dollars of course.

 

Hondapride, I think you have it backwards. The 7 is the hot plug and the 9 is colder. I may be mistaken, but I don't think so. Maybe someone else can verify this or explain hot vs cold plugs.

 

do you notice a big differance???

and does it do any damage to the engine??

 

I'm not an engineer, but I believe that the $5 (platinum) plug will simply burn a litle more efficiently and last a little longer. It will not damage your engine. Think of it as the difference between buying cheap tires and good tires.

 

WOW, this is truly interesting after this many years of engine building and tweaking, how could I have overlooked spark plugs giving MAJOR power improvements....I hate to come across this way, but it seems very irresponsible to dish out this baseless and incorrect information about spark plugs....

A spark plug. Hmmm, what exactly is it??? Well, it's nothing more than a calibrated gap for the ignition spark to jump across. Fine wire electrodes, like the NGK- EV, EGV's are, may offer less resistance, therefore could supply more voltage at the gap causing better ignition and start of the flame kernal. A spark plug only provides a place for the spark to jump across and light off the trapped mixture.

The heat range rating of a spark plugs really is not an indicator of how "hot" the spark burns. That's a function of the coil's discharge voltage. The heat range applies to how much heat is transfered to the head, and also how much of the electrode is protruding, which provides self-cleaning of deposits. If all we EVER did was run around at constant high RPM's then one heat range plug would suffice. Loads and RPM's change. As you cruise around at partial throttle deposits form on the electrode, in order to keep it from fouling it has to be able to burn those deposits off, this is accomplised by how far the electrode protrudes past the case and how well it transfers heat to the head.

A incorrect heat range plug itself won't cause damage directly to the engine. The danger lies in that if the plug electrode or even the case is getting too hot, detonation will occur. The now too hot plug components self-ignites the fuel independent of when the spark should have fired. BOOM!!! Detonation occurs, you purchase new piston.

You should always ride with the coldest plug that you can ride without fouling. This helps provide some safety margin from the above condition happening. It's a trickey dance though. You may have to jet lean enough to keep the plug from fouling, which in a sense can lead to detonation. But in a nut shell, if you ride REALLY hard, a notch colder plug without having to fiddle with your jetting is the safe thing to do.

Gordon Jennings wrote an article about spark plugs a few years back, spark plug tech. hasn't changed all that much relative to other stuff, just how much smoke, mirrors, and snake oil plug manu's want you to beleive. Here's the link to it:
http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html

Proper gap will give far more power than simply changing too a "super-zoot" plug will. Motorcycle and quad ignitions are notoriously weak. That's why fine wire electrode help to an extent. But, if the gap begins to get too great, as RPM, load and heat begins to build getting the mixture to fire off exactly when it should becomes more difficult. The properly set gap will net more power in itself, it's able to do it's job properly.

Go read the Godfather's spark plug article. I don't have anything against buying fine wire spark plugs(EV, EGV's so on), yes they're pricey, but it won't hurt. But to say that spark plugs in themselves will net MAJOR increases in power and throttle response....well, again go read that article and make your assumptions.

 

Why dont you try it and see? Mabye it will make you open your eyes.


And its easy to cut and paste something in an article to make you look like you know what your talking about. We can all do that.

 

I've tried just about every spark plug under the sun. From NGK's, to Champions, Split Fires. A simple NGK B9EV plug suits my needs the best.

As for cutting and pasting...well...Perhaps it does seem that it would be close to what Jennings has wrote, but spark plug tech is spark plug tech. You can only word in so many ways. I guess after all these years I still don't know what's going on....

So have you done any conclusive testing to back up your claims. Improvements on the dyno, fuel mileage increases, or lower ET's??? Not just "I had a buddy who..." I do ALOT of testing and tuning, each time I take careful notes of the changes and am able to readily see if it works or not, as verified by changes in ET's on a 300ft. sand drag strip. Yes, I have tried different plugs, from a standard electrode to the fine wire electrode, colder heat ranges, hotter heat ranges, even changing the plug gap by one thousandth, seeing if there was any change. There wasn't any appreciable gains, maybe at best a few hundredths in time, but there are far too many other variables to account for then.

The fact still doesn't change that the spark plug only gives a place for the ignition voltage to jump across. Unless we start to change ignitions to higher output units (MSD, Jacobs, DUI) the amount of gap, therefore the amount of spark exposed to start the flame kernal remains the same.

I'd like to hear conclusive technical evidence from you supporting your claims. Be specific on how, and probably most importantly WHY. You might want to verify the CRE8 plug number, it doesn't jive. The C would denote 10mm threads, whereas your Rancher takes a D, or 12mm threads.