My question to everyone is what I should look for when looking at the 250r. I found a 88 250r for sale near my house, Im looking at it tomarrow. I talked with the guy who is selling it, and it has some mods, +2 Lagers arms, FMF pipe, Hinsen clutch, many other goodies,but when I asked if the frame has ever been welded he said yes, just in one spot. How serious should I take that into consideration. Also what other areas on the frame should I look at. Any info would be great!

Ride Red

99' 400ex, Burguard +2 arms, Axcaliber +4 axel, Works Triple Rates,Ultracross rear, Full skid, 18" MX Holeshots, WB E-Series full system, High flow WB air box, Motion-pro twist,Outerwears, DG Alloy nerfs, Race DG bumper, Nacs block plate

I wouldn't worry too much about the crack in the frame. Ken Cornwell at rocky ridge racing can magnaflux your stock frame re-condition it and reinforce it better than new for about $375. Your frame would be better than a new one then. For all the extra accessories that you would want anyway I would say mostly pay attention to the front bushings, rear bearings, suspension and mostly the bottom end in the motor. If you need a new crank and main bearings or if the cases have ever been busted and just re-welded(rigged) then you could have a potentially ex$pensive problem. If he hasn't or doesn't know how long its been since the bottom end was re-built (top ends are nothing) then low ball him on the price. A bottom end re-build is usually about $800 with Labor. If everything else looks o.k. then you got a good buy. 250R's are light, fast and a blast to ride. I am sure you will love it.

CT250R

I agree with ct250r also look at the spindles axle and any other major component that may have damage done to it. The only other thing I can think of that has anything major other than the motor and you really cant look at it unless you take it apart and look at it.

Thanks, most of the items you had mentioned he said were new except the bushings up front. I'll have to check those. As for the bottom end I'll see if the case has been welded, and I'll ask when was last time it was rebuilt! He is the original owner so he should know. Thank you, if you think of anything else please let me know!

Thanks

it looks like most of the problame places have been said you could also check the frame to make shure it is all strait (ask him to stand it on the grab bar). and you can check were the shock mounts to the frame and seat to see if it is bent.

Make sure there is no visible smoke from the muffler, alot of people will tell you its normal, but beware.!

i've never actually seen a 2-stroke not smoke..

anyways..

Why are 250Rs so expensinve..! i want one..but i only have 2,500 to spend after i sell my 250x tomorrow night..

What is the deal? The cheapest on trader online is 2,700 and its a POS!

maby you should look for a lt 250r o ya PERFORMANCE DOES NOT COME CHEEP

I'll agree with the above, except I had my engine bottom end done for a lot less money at Orange County Honda. After my 3rd Trinity motor seized, I took it to OCH. New crank and bearings, new rod, piston/rings, cylinder honed, new crank seals, and new shifter forks in the tranny for only $430! Helluva deal.

94DGBLASTER ...You should be able {if you are patient &willing to look hi &lo}to find a basically stock one for that kind of money.also know up front that it will more than likely need some work/parts invested in it.I just bought one{1986} on sunday for 1850.00, it will need aprox.1,000.00 invested in it but should be well worth it when its done.This one needs front fenders ,handle bars,seat/pad,cables,brake work,some hoses,general maintenance,better exhaust system,etc.Two years ago I bought a nearly basket case{1987} and invested some money in it and it is great machine.Folow the good advice above and you will be OK,also remember... almost anything can be fixed/repaired with the right amount of time/money, all depends how bad you want to do it. Although if you want to race it the sky the is limit in the amount of money you can spend.