Hello everybody, bought a 2001 Rubicon last fall and only plowed snow with it so i didn't know that there was a problem with the shifting because I never used higher than second.

This weekend I went on a good run and found out that it appears the bike won't go higher than 3rd. It doesn't matter if I'm in ESP or D1,D2, it won't go past 3rd gear and the dash flashes. The ony way to get back to normal is to stop, turn off the motor with the key and re start the motor, then I'm back to 1st gear.

I've tried a couple of suggestions as pushing both shift buttons at the same time, then turning the key, etc with no luck.

Anybody out there care to help me out, thanks in advance.

 

You have to count the number of flashes...

 

Thanks for your quick reply. Oddly enough, I tried 10 times last night and I couldn't get it to flash then this morning, it flashed on the first try. I got 10 flashes, go figure.

 

After reading another thread, I should say that instead of 10 flashes, it's two sets of 5, with a pause in between.

 

Code 5 is shift angle motor lock. Service manual basically outlines connector checks of the ECM, shift motor and angle sensor. Also goes into detail for checking line power to and from these components. removing the shift motor, checking it's operation and moving the swash plate gears checking the angle sensor ohms in the process.

----- Gimpster -----

 

Thanks gimpster, not sure if I'll tackle that myself, in fact I don't think so. To be honest, I'm not much of a rider. I bought the bike mainly to plow the driveway, so always never go higher than second gear.

That being said, if I leave the bike the way it is, can it harm other components do you think?

 

The unit may revert to default mode and stutter in reverse etc... ignition wise
Tranny wise, in auto mode it will probably stay in second gear which I believe is limp in mode.
If working the unit hard (pushing heavy wet snow) detonation may occor or it will be under powered.
Working hard in auto mode/default may burn the centrifugal clutch and or drum.

If the unit works correctly after turning the key off then back on, then it may be ok to use.

Many times, the ecm connectors are dirty, loose or corroded. the ecm is under the rear fender, above the tool box. connectors can be seen by loooking above the tool box from the right rear fender well. You could try pushing in on them (2 multiple pin connectors)
Also, the shift control motor, front of the engine by your left foot when setting on the quad, may be hanging up or reaching what we call motor lock. Something in the electrical system normally in the angle sensor circuit will run the swash plate to the end of it's travel and lock the shaft that is driven by the shift motor. In this case, remove the 2 bolts that secure the shift motor with a 10 mm wrench or socket and ratchet. pull the motor from the engine. there is a gear visible through the hole where your shift motor was removed. Take a screwdriver and see if this gear will rock back and forth. If it was snug one way but turns the other way, the shift motor was in "lock" and will not move because the ecm reads an out of range ohm spec from the angle position sensor. This causes the ecm to go into default and shut down. It will not free up or center the swash plate shaft on it's own. If you removed the shift motor, used the screwdriver like I mentioned and get the gear to turn, turn it like 7 to 10 times the amount you can turn it with the screwdriver, reinstall the shift motor. Best from here is to run an initialization process with the key and shift switches. If you find this is the issue, chime in or do a search. The initialization process has been explained a lot. If you need help on the unit, email me gimpster@bis.midco.net. I will gladly give up my cell phone number to you that method, to call for further assistance in repairing this unit if needed.

----- Gimpster -----

 

Geez, thanks for all the info. I've printed it out because I'll never memorize all of it.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

Your precious time in writing this is greatly appreciated, thanks a million. If I tackle this, I'll try my damnest to post back.

Just re-read your instructions again but more attentively, (I'm in the process of building a garage). Sounds like something I can handle.

 

To Gimpster: Here's what I've done and it worked, got all my 5 gears back but I haven't gone for a ride yet (construction, blah, blah,etc).

Hi Braco,
If I understand the reset question right, here's what Abernathy's told me to do after I had about 3 or 4 angle Sensors replaced. "Thank goodness for exrended warranty's"
I'm not 100 % positive but here's what you should try. With the key switch off hold the up and down arrows in, then turn the key to the on position without starting the bike. Then you release the arrows at the same time then push the arrows in this order......up then down then up again now release the up arrow and push the throttle all the open and release....you should here the electric motor that changes the gears move for about 4 seconds. After the sound stops you push the bike forward or backward about 15 feet. Now the motor assembly should be reset. If you have a stripped gear this won't help. Hope you have good luck and it's not a stripped gear....Mayorstt


Now do you think this is a temporary solution and when I go for a ride it will act up again? Sweetmarie

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: sweetmarie

I'm not 100 % positive but here's what you should try. With the key switch off hold the up and down arrows in, then turn the key to the on position without starting the bike. Then you release the arrows at the same time then push the arrows in this order......up then down then up again now release the up arrow and push the throttle all the open and release....

Now do you think this is a temporary solution and when I go for a ride it will act up again? Sweetmarie</end quote></div>

Wow sounds like and old nintendo code.... up up down down left right left right B A select start.... LOL