as for as the nut you should replace any lock nut once it has been removed with a new one.
if someone that uses the torche has a small brazing tip like a # 1 & is careful they wont even get the axle hot to start with, you dont want to melt it just get it to expand a little , this only takes about 500 degrees to do this, that will not pull the temper on the axle.
& if you thought you were going to get the axle hot enough to pull temper (around 1700f)
you should have the water going to start with. I have did many of jobs like this in my line of work & never had a failure (yet) you can allways use the die grinder & split the nut to remove it.

 

1. Liberal application of a quality penetrating oil. I reccomend finding PB Blaster

2. Judicious application of heat to lock nut.

3. VERY large wrench.

4. The nut is going to be toast most likely anyways. You may try cutting it with a sawz-all. Cut into the lock nut at a diagonal relative to the axle. The lock nut threads onto a sleeve, so if you're careful you won't cut into the axle itself. Cut both sides and split it off. You can safely do the same for the nut itself.

5. You're sure that you turning the right way???

 

I heated it i pounded on it i kicked it and that F****N thing still wont come off i didnt get to go riding today cause of that stupid bolt SON OF A B!T(H ! any more suggestions ?

 

See above #4....

 

Steel pipe is cheap. Go to Home Depot and get a long section of pipe that will slip over your wrench. Make sure you have a good fit on the nut and the wrench is solid because something is going to give once you get enough torque on it.

 

Tomorow or sometime this week I will have me dad cut it off like you said backcountry

 

I'm not trying to make anybody mad. But there are two nuts. Make sure that you work on the inner one first. Closest to the bearing carrier. Make sure the wrench is on that nut only. I always used an over sized "MONKEY" wrench, (PIPE WRENCH). Once I get them off, I throw them into a box, and wait for someone to buy them. I have replaced all of mine with the ANTI FADE HUB, from LONE STAR RACING. A very costly mod, but worth it in the long run. Have a little patience. It will come off!!!

 

Alrighty man, I just did this yesterday for the second time on my bike, and it didn't take King Kong to get it off. Make sure when your facing the rear off the bike that you are loosening the nut(smaller) to the left first. You should be pushing down on the wrench to loosen, after about 1/4 inch, start on the outer nut, then remove the clip off the axle and slide all everything off to the left, axle then goes to the right.

Hope I'm not on the wrong track here, let me now how you do, I work at Stonewall Cycles in VA, and we never have this much trouble getting them off.

 

LIsten to blue 400ex. CLymer amual is confusing.

 

Cutting the axle would be a real bone head move. Just heat the dad-blame nut a little bit and it will come right off! Been there done that, it works.